Italy

Italy is the seat of modern civilization, with an unrivaled storehouse of Renaissance art and home to some of the world’s most popular foods. Whether you go for the art, the food and wine, or the ancient history (or all of the above), you’ll find so much more—from the hustle of Naples’ streets to the gently rolling hills of Umbria to the coastal delicacies of Liguria.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Italy?

A summer spent wandering Italy can keep all those carb pounds in check because the temperatures in most of the country reaches into the 80’s. But since Italians take most of August off for their own vacations, lots of places are closed and the vitality of the country is transferred to the beaches. So, head to the peninsula in the spring or fall. Both are peak culinary seasons with a riot of vegetables appearing from April into June and the wonder of mushrooms and the wine harvest from September well into November.

How to get around Italy

The country’s main airports are in Milan and Rome. Over the past few years, airlines like Norwegian and Turkish Air have run outrageous deals if you fly through their hubs so if you can find a short hop into Italy from Oslo or Istanbul, it may be well worth the discount. Also look for airlines like SAS, KLM, and Swiss.

Italy has a very well developed and fairly reliable rail system that will get you to most towns of note without much delay but the rise of budget airlines means that flying between cities can be just as cheap. But if you want to tour the countryside you’ll still need a rental car.

Food and drink to try in Italy

Italy is a legendary culinary destination for a reason. There are plenty of tourist traps but the whole country is swimming in great wine, an exploding craft brewing scene, and a variety of creative culinary feats—with a focus on quality ingredients. In Italy you’ll find a culture that takes food seriously; don’t miss your opportunity to partake in specialties as well known as Parmesan cheese and Chianti wine or the local specialties of every small town and region. Slow Food has an excellent set of guides and seeing the distinctive snail logo in shop and restaurant windows is a positive cue.

Culture in Italy

Rome is the obvious starting point for culture vultures because it’s drenched in ancient, medieval, papal, and modern history. But Italy also has a tremendous musical footprint that comes alive most vividly in opera. Milan and Venice contain two of the greatest opera houses in the world in La Scala and La Fenice, respectively. Most cities of note, like Bologna and Palermo, contain dynamic opera houses which thrive on repertory and contemporary experiments.

Check out Siena’s summer Palio, a medieval horse race around the city’s central piazza. It’s full of pomp and fanfare—but go prepared, not an ounce of it is sanitized; jockeys are regularly injured, horses even more so. A similar race is held annually in Asti. In Venice, the annual carnival is enticing fun, with all those masks and Baroque plays. And the Venice Biennale, every two years, is a must-see for contemporary art lovers. Don’t forget that Italy is mad for soccer, so if you’re there during the regular season (roughly September through May), seek out a game to experience all the passion and fraternity. It’s even better when events like the European Cup or World Cup are being played; every bar or café will be full of fans.

Local travel tips for Italy

Major cultural institutions like the Uffizi and Borghese Gallery require reserved tickets. Make sure to buy tickets to major institutions well in advance. August is one big national holiday, when the entire country decamps for the beach, mountains, or foreign vacations. It can be fun to play in the sand with Italians but if you want to experience the country in all its glory, plan to avoid that month.

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After doing away with its COVID testing requirement for vaccinated travelers in March, Italy is now no longer requiring a health pass, or “green pass,” to enter restaurants and other venues.
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Resources to help plan your trip
Florence is best in the off-season; the summer months are painfully crowded. If you love art history, this is your chance to dive deep. Tuscany contains a mind boggling number of sights and experiences. The hill towns, like San Gimignano, are incredibly atmospheric (and touristy). Sienna’s duomo is a stunning architectural creation literally cantilevered out over a hill. Get out of town to see the vineyards. Arezzo’s stunning Piero Della Francesca murals are worth the trip alone.
Everyone knows Sicily because of the mafia, but it’s so much more than that. It is the crossroads of the Mediterranean, closer to Africa than Rome, which made it a hub of trade dating back at least to the Greeks. That means anyone who was anyone in the area has been there, built something, and contributed to the culinary culture. Plus it’s warm most of the year so swimming is encouraged, long strolls in sultry Palermo are de rigeur, and boat rides out to the islands will delight you.
No Roman holiday would be complete without spending some time, at the very least, window shopping your way through the city. But it will be hard to stave off the urge to buy goods on some of the world’s best shopping streets. (Roads leading to the Spanish Steps tend to be lined with beautiful goods.) Rome’s shops sell exquisite delights from Italian designers, including leather bags, clothes and accessories (the eyeglasses at Ottica Spiezia will make you swoon), and much more. Of course, there are also plenty of food shops so you can bring home the tastes of Rome too.
There’s so much to see and do in Milan that identifying the must-do experiences is nearly impossible. Seeing the Duomo, Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper” (in Santa Maria delle Grazie), and the Museum of the 20th Century must be top of the list. Style aficionados should certainly check out Milan’s Fashion Quadrilateral. Similarly, football fans should try to watch a game at San Siro, Milan’s cathedral of European soccer.
No matter your interests and passions, you can indulge them in Tuscany. Art fans will marvel at world-famous works at the Uffizi, architecture buffs can visit stunning cathedrals and palazzi (not to mention a famous leaning tower), and shoppers will find goodies both designer and handcrafted. Cooking classes, vineyard tours, and scenic country drives with stops at medieval hill towns are just a few more options in the heart of Italy.
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The ancient city of Genoa is peppered with tiny shops selling specialty goods, with ownership often passed down from father to son for centuries. From spices and artisan chocolates to handmade shirts and old maritime maps, this part of Genoa has resisted the pull of the one-stop shop and instead holds strongly to its traditional past.
Board a boat or a train, and head into the areas surrounding Genoa along the Ligurian coast, between the mountains and the sea.
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