Start this morning with an electric bike ride along part of the northern shore of the lake. With its well-maintained cycling paths and its generally flat topography, especially along the southern shore, multi-day tours of Lake Balaton are increasingly popular. With a shoreline that is some 125 miles long, a journey around the entire lake by bike takes a minimum of two or three days. You’ll get a taste of it today on a shorter excursion.
You’ll head higher up into the Balaton Uplands, and specifically the village of Köveskál, for lunch at Kővirág
, one of the area’s most charming restaurants. On warm days, lunch is served alfresco in the shade of flowering fruit trees. On cooler ones, the dining room is warmed by a wood stove. Though the menu changes every three days, you can except to find some signature dishes like the cottage cheese dumplings.
Take an afternoon hike along one of the trails near Köveskál. The Káli Basin portion of the park a variety of oaks, as well as groves of lindens and beech trees, and as you explore you may pass the ruins of long abandoned medieval villages while the steeples of churches still in use rise above the landscape.
You’ll spend the next two nights at the Kali Art Hotel
, in Köveskál, where original 18th-century buildings have been joined by newer cottages as well as two pools. The result is an appealing base for exploring this part of the Lake Balaton region.