Italy

Italy is the seat of modern civilization, with an unrivaled storehouse of Renaissance art and home to some of the world’s most popular foods. Whether you go for the art, the food and wine, or the ancient history (or all of the above), you’ll find so much more—from the hustle of Naples’ streets to the gently rolling hills of Umbria to the coastal delicacies of Liguria.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Italy?

A summer spent wandering Italy can keep all those carb pounds in check because the temperatures in most of the country reaches into the 80’s. But since Italians take most of August off for their own vacations, lots of places are closed and the vitality of the country is transferred to the beaches. So, head to the peninsula in the spring or fall. Both are peak culinary seasons with a riot of vegetables appearing from April into June and the wonder of mushrooms and the wine harvest from September well into November.

How to get around Italy

The country’s main airports are in Milan and Rome. Over the past few years, airlines like Norwegian and Turkish Air have run outrageous deals if you fly through their hubs so if you can find a short hop into Italy from Oslo or Istanbul, it may be well worth the discount. Also look for airlines like SAS, KLM, and Swiss.

Italy has a very well developed and fairly reliable rail system that will get you to most towns of note without much delay but the rise of budget airlines means that flying between cities can be just as cheap. But if you want to tour the countryside you’ll still need a rental car.

Food and drink to try in Italy

Italy is a legendary culinary destination for a reason. There are plenty of tourist traps but the whole country is swimming in great wine, an exploding craft brewing scene, and a variety of creative culinary feats—with a focus on quality ingredients. In Italy you’ll find a culture that takes food seriously; don’t miss your opportunity to partake in specialties as well known as Parmesan cheese and Chianti wine or the local specialties of every small town and region. Slow Food has an excellent set of guides and seeing the distinctive snail logo in shop and restaurant windows is a positive cue.

Culture in Italy

Rome is the obvious starting point for culture vultures because it’s drenched in ancient, medieval, papal, and modern history. But Italy also has a tremendous musical footprint that comes alive most vividly in opera. Milan and Venice contain two of the greatest opera houses in the world in La Scala and La Fenice, respectively. Most cities of note, like Bologna and Palermo, contain dynamic opera houses which thrive on repertory and contemporary experiments.

Check out Siena’s summer Palio, a medieval horse race around the city’s central piazza. It’s full of pomp and fanfare—but go prepared, not an ounce of it is sanitized; jockeys are regularly injured, horses even more so. A similar race is held annually in Asti. In Venice, the annual carnival is enticing fun, with all those masks and Baroque plays. And the Venice Biennale, every two years, is a must-see for contemporary art lovers. Don’t forget that Italy is mad for soccer, so if you’re there during the regular season (roughly September through May), seek out a game to experience all the passion and fraternity. It’s even better when events like the European Cup or World Cup are being played; every bar or café will be full of fans.

Local travel tips for Italy

Major cultural institutions like the Uffizi and Borghese Gallery require reserved tickets. Make sure to buy tickets to major institutions well in advance. August is one big national holiday, when the entire country decamps for the beach, mountains, or foreign vacations. It can be fun to play in the sand with Italians but if you want to experience the country in all its glory, plan to avoid that month.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Caffè Cova, Milan‘s old world pastry shop and original fashion caffe. Its pastries are perfect and more than delicious, but what takes the proverbial cake is the aperitivo and its presentation. Black tie serves cater drinks like Negroni sbagliati with a sampling of beautiful mignons, tiny and colorful hors d’oeuvres of salmons, patè and cheese.
The beautiful “suburb” of Genoa, Nervi boasts a lovely series of green parks (something Genoa lacks overall) and a well-tended passeggiata path that runs directly along the rocky shore. Especially popular with families on the weekend, the path is easily accessible from the Nervi train station (a 10-minute ride from Brignole Station in central Genoa). Spend the day escaping the bustle of central Genoa by walking along the shore, enjoying the museums tucked into centuries-old palaces in the parks, and having dinner at a small fish restaurant along the coast.
This is my favorite gelato in Genoa - hands down. Super rich flavors, super creamy texture, and little cup/cones that let you take your time to savor each bite. And with slow-food approved ingredients, you can also feel good about eating it! Just beware - the gelateria is on the ground floor of the Eataly building, and directly in the middle of the chaos of Porto Antico, so on warm days the line can be nearly an hour.
Since 1880, Amaretti di Voltaggio has been serving coffee, pastries, and liquor in this gorgeous shop a few blocks from Porto Antico. The shop/bar opens at 8am, so come early for a table outside (the people watching along this street is superb), and order a cafe correcto if you are feeling adventurous (they will put a shot of liquor into your coffee, so be ready), or just stick with the tried-and-true cappuccino for the most authentic Genovese morning.
While the climb is quite literally breathtaking (900 steps), the Church of San Rocco, perched on the very edge of the Ligurian Sea, is a gorgeous spot to spend the day. Taking the train to Camogli, you can then spend the morning hiking up to the church and enjoying the beautiful altar piece and frescoes. Coming back down into town, make sure you stop by one of the many seaside restaurants for a celebratory lunch, and grab a gelato from one of the boardwalk stands on your way back to the train station!
While most of the shops located under the arcades of Via XX Settembre are chains (like Zara, H&M, etc), you can find a few local boutique gems as well - and the covered area makes a perfect afternoon for shopping out of the rain! (You can also find quite a few coffee shops and focaccerias under these arches too, so it’s easy to make a full afternoon here.)
Camogli is a quick 30-minute train ride out of Genoa, making it easy for an evening out for cocktails and dinner. Leave from Brignole Station, and arrive in Camogli by 6:30pm so that you can get a seaside table at Bar Auriga for a perfect Aperol Spritz as the sun sets and the waves crash in.
Getting to Portofino from Genoa is quite easy. Take the train from Genoa’s Brignole Station to Santa Margherita Ligure, and then catch the 82 bus to Portofino (a 12-minute trip around the bay). While I’m not a huge bus person, this is one of the most gorgeous bus rides I’ve ever experienced. A tiny fishing village with a very posh clientele, Portofino is a wonderful day trip—perfect for walking around, shopping at high-end boutiques, and enjoying an apertivo dockside before heading back to town. Yet Portofino is also covered with trekking trails, so another option is to wear walking gear and come for the breathtaking hikes!
While it may go without mentioning, the fish along the Ligurian coast is some of the freshest in the world (as most restaurants source from small local fishermen, they get their supplies within minutes of the catch). Most of the fish here is of the flaky, white variety, although during certain months you can find the massive tuna swimming just meters off the coast. Italians love their fish simply prepared, but if you come in spring, make sure you order yours with the delicious seasonal ‘carciofi’ (artichokes).
With amazingly clear emerald waters, the calm sea off of Santa Margherita and Portofino is perfect for snorkeling and scuba diving (May-September is the best season, although it has been known to stretch!). Il Grande Blu provides all you need to enjoy the waters - instructors, equipment, even towels! And if you prefer to stay on top of the water, they have kayaks for rent, as well as a beautiful full-service beach. (If you are up for even more of an adventure - head even further around the bay to San Fruttuoso to scuba dive - there is a sunken Christ figure just a few meters out into the bay that is really gorgeous to view up close!)