A Tuscan Estate, a Food Lover’s Retreat in Modena: 17 Hotels in Italy That Let You Live Like an Italian

Sometimes you want the predictability of a major luxury hotel brand or the ability to redeem loyalty points. But Italy has long excelled at something else: independently owned boutique hotels that are small in scale and full of soul. Across the country, many of the best luxury hotels are still family-run, often for generations, whether inside converted palazzi, countryside estates, or glamorous seaside retreats.

Alongside the hallmarks of luxury hospitality—excellent restaurants, anticipatory service, and restorative spas—these hotels often have a warmth and individuality that can feel harder to find at larger global brands. For Afar’s Hotels We Love series, we’re spotlighting Italy’s best boutique and independently owned hotels.

Atelier Inès Art & Suites

Naples has exploded in popularity in recent years, although the city’s hotel scene still lags behind its culinary and cultural offerings. A quirky exception is Atelier Inès Art & Suites, a nine-room boutique hotel attached to a working art studio run by Vincenzo Oste and his wife, Inès Sellami.

Set in the bustling Rione Sanità neighborhood, the property is Oste’s former family home and studio; his great-grandfather constructed the building in 1947. Nearly everything inside the hotel is handmade, from the ceramic tables in the breakfast room to the cabinets that contain the minibars, sculptural doorknobs, and towel racks in the suites. There’s no restaurant, but Oste and Sellami are happy to share their favorite local spots and help make reservations.

Casa Maria Luigia

Casa Maria Luigia is a 22-room villa in the Modena countryside conceived by world-renowned chef Massimo Bottura (of three Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana in Modena) and his wife, Lara Gilmore. Equal parts culinary destination, contemporary art haven, and design retreat, the property feels like checking into someone’s well-curated Italian home. From the art on the walls and Bottura’s vinyl collection to the homemade cookies waiting in the fridge, nearly every detail reflects the couple’s tastes and obsessions.

Guests can sample retired dishes from Osteria Francescana’s menu at Francescana at Maria Luigia, or have a more laid-back meal of wood-fired cooking at Al Gatto Verde. Don’t skip breakfast—it’s a sprawling spread of traditional Emilian dishes like gnocco fritto and erbazzone in addition to cinnamon buns and chocolate chip cookies, a nod to Gilmore’s American roots.

Works by Ai Weiwei, Joseph Beuys, and Cindy Sherman among other prominent artists appear throughout the retreat, and guests are encouraged to pull records from the couple’s extensive vinyl library. Recent additions include new rooms and suites at Casa Lu, pasta-making classes, and a daytime dining menu available exclusively to hotel guests. There’s also an on-site acetaia offering tours and balsamic vinegar tastings.

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Castello di Vicarello

The Baccheschi Berti family spent three decades renovating Castello di Vicarello, a once-abandoned 12th-century castle tucked deep in Tuscany’s Maremma region. Originally purchased in 1979 as a family vacation home, it now feels like a stylish private residence spread across a vast estate. There are only 11 rooms and suites, so the atmosphere remains intimate even when the hotel is full.

No two accommodations are alike. Some have lofted sleeping areas or original fireplaces, while others open onto countryside views. Throughout, the design reflects the family’s eclectic eye, with furnishings collected in Indonesia, Moroccan rugs, and one-of-a-kind antiques and textiles.

To get to the dining room, guests pass directly through the open kitchen, often catching the chef with a cooking class or preparing the evening meal. Much of the produce comes from the estate’s garden or nearby farms, and the property also makes its own wine, offered in tastings led by the sommelier. Other seasonal activities include truffle hunting, hiking on the trails, or going for a ride on one of the property’s e-bikes. New this year is a perfume-making class and private airplane tours.

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Hotel Il Pellicano

The iconic Hotel Il Pellicano, a slice of la dolce vita on the glittering Mediterranean Sea, has been a fixture of the jet set since the 1960s. Originally built as the home of an American socialite and a British aviator, who invited their famous and aristocratic friends, Il Pellicano opened as a hotel in 1965 and was bought by frequent guest Roberto Sciò in 1979. Today it’s run by his daughter Marie-Louise Sciò, a modern-day icon of Italian style. The airy, terra-cotta-floored guest rooms have balconies or terraces that spill into manicured gardens.

This is the place to spend lazy days lounging at the beach club or by the pool, sipping an Aperol Spritz on the terrace, and savoring leisurely meals at the Michelin-starred Ristorante Il Pellicano. The hotel has made an admirable commitment to sustainability, with initiatives ranging from partnering with marine conservation NGO Marevivo on beach maintenance to reducing single-use plastic waste and switching to 100 percent renewable energy sources where possible. In 2026, 23 of the 50 rooms and suites were refurbished, and a renovated elevator now links the upper pool terrace with the beach below.

Hotel La Perla

Annie and Ernesto Costa founded Hotel La Perla in 1957, and they still live on the third floor, though they handed over the reins to their three sons, who run the hotel with aplomb. At first glance, Hotel La Perla looks like a large traditional alpine chalet, but take another look and you’ll discover all kinds of quirky touches, from the inventive cuisine at the Michelin-starred restaurant to the trippy wine cellar tour animated by kinetic installations and rock music.

The 51 guest rooms and suites have rustic alpine style and postcard-worthy mountain views. Most guests opt for half board to enjoy breakfast and dinner at one of the four restaurants after a day of skiing on the slopes or hiking in the mountains. (Complimentary guided hikes are available in the summer.) The newly refurbished and expanded spa and beer garden are ideal places to relax après-ski or post-hike. Sustainability measures include sourcing food locally and seasonally, minimizing food waste, recycling, and offering guests incentives like a free night of accommodation if they don’t use their cars during their stay.

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Hotel Santa Caterina

Set along the coastal road just outside the center of Amalfi, Hotel Santa Caterina spills down the side of the mountain, with terraced gardens, suites built into the side of the cliff, and a beach club with a saltwater pool hewn into the rock. The main building was once the Gambardella family home, and they’re still very present, personally welcoming guests and making sure that everything runs smoothly. They opened their doors to guests in 1904, and ever since, generations have been returning and requesting the same room.

Every year, when the hotel closes for the winter, the owners renovate a handful of the 66 guest rooms and make other improvements to the property, while carefully preserving the vintage vibes. In addition to the Michelin-starred restaurant Glicine and the casual Restaurant Al Mare at the beach club, they’ve recently debuted a new rooftop restaurant called Senzafine, which serves sushi and Mediterranean grilled seafood. The small spa offers treatments like the standout “Amalfi Gold” massage that combines aromatherapy and Ayurveda. If you can manage to tear yourself away from the property, the center of Amalfi is a 15-minute walk away, and a complimentary shuttle is available to bring you there and back.

La Posta Vecchia

Less than an hour’s drive from Rome, La Posta Vecchia feels a world away, thanks to its tranquil seaside location. Set along the Tyrrhenian coast, the Renaissance-era villa was once owned by oil tycoon J. Paul Getty, who filled it with antiques, tapestries, and art that still define much of its atmosphere today.

The property is now overseen by Marie-Louise Sciò, who grew up spending summers here after her father, Roberto Sciò, purchased the villa as the family’s second home. In 2026, the hotel will complete the final phase of its redesign with four newly renovated suites with rich textiles and custom furnishings. Days here are spent relaxing by the indoor pool or the sea, savoring fresh local cuisine made with garden-grown vegetables, unwinding with a spa treatment, or settling in for cocktails on the terrace or in the intimate bar.

Le Sirenuse

One of Italy’s most iconic hotels, Le Sirenuse was once the home of the Sersale family, who opened it to guests in 1951. John Steinbeck stayed here in the 1950s and later wrote an essay about Positano that helped put the town on the international map. Much of the appeal remains the same today: its location within walking distance of the beach and Positano’s winding streets, the postcard views of the town and the tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, and 58 rooms with hand-painted tile floors and antiques. The restaurants and bars continue to serve unfussy southern Italian cooking that lets the ingredients shine.

At the same time, the hotel continues to evolve with each generation of the family. Third-generation owner Antonio Sersale introduced site-specific contemporary art installations throughout the property, while his wife, Carla, curates the clothing and housewares sold at the Emporio Sirenuse shop. Their sons, Aldo and Francesco, now oversee the hotel’s culinary and marketing efforts. In honor of Le Sirenuse’s 75th anniversary in 2026, the family launched Le Sirenuse Mare, a new beach club in nearby Nerano with a restaurant, two bars, and contemporary art installations spread across a tiered garden.

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Palazzo Avino

While Positano may draw more visitors to its shores to see the pastel buildings cascading down the sides of the mountains, Ravello has always been more secluded and exclusive, the domain of aristocrats, artists, writers, and musicians. Set high on a cliff, Palazzo Avino offers the best of both sides of the Amalfi Coast: the peace and quiet of Ravello, its bird’s-eye views of the coast, and access to the sea, thanks to the hotel’s chic beach club.

What makes this hotel unique is that it expresses the style and personality of its owners, sisters Mariella and Attilia Avino, whose father purchased the 12th-century palace in the 1990s. They’re constantly adding new flourishes to the 43 individually designed guest rooms and suites, the Michelin-starred Rossellini’s, the casual Terrazza Belvedere and Lobster & Martini Bar, the spa, and the pool (with custom two-tiered pink-and-white striped umbrellas), plus the Pink Closet, with clothes and accessories by the sisters’ favorite designers. New in 2026 is a textile installation by contemporary artist Martino Gamper covering the entire vertical spine of the grand staircase.

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Palazzo Talìa

Palazzo Talìa, housed inside Rome’s historic Collegiocolle Nazareno, is the first hotel project from the interior design studio of filmmaker Luca Guadagnino. Since opening in 2024, it has become an instant design darling, attracting a mix of local creatives, fashion insiders, and international travelers.

Rooms and suites, designed by Milan-based Laura Feroldi and MIA Design Studio, feature bold colors and hand-crafted furnishings. Much of the vibe centers on Bar della Musa, set inside a frescoed salon covered with mirrored tiles, while Tremae restaurant has tables in the verdant courtyard and serves excellent cuisine inspired by Rome and the chef’s Sorrentine roots.

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Passalacqua

The De Santis family, owens of Grand Hotel Tremezzo, expanded their Lake Como footprint in 2022 with the opening of Passalacqua, an 18th-century villa on Lake Como transformed into one of Italy’s most sought-after boutique hotels. Once owned by Count Andrea Lucini-Passalacqua, the estate feels a lot more like a family home despite its grandeur.

Guests are invited to wander into the kitchen for the lavish breakfast spread each morning or help themselves to a slice of cake laid out in the library each afternoon. At night, a pianist serenades diners in the chandeliered dining room, where the menu focuses on Italian classics.

There are 24 rooms and suites spread across three buildings. All feature marble bathrooms, antiques, and concealed televisions tucked inside custom trunks. Between the spa, the outdoor pool with jaunty green umbrellas, yoga glasses, and gelato-making workshops, there’s plenty to do on property. For guests eager to explore Lake Como, two vintage speedboats are available for excursions across the water. For the 2026 season, the hotel also secured a private opera box in nearby Como for guests, complete with behind-the-scenes theater tours before performances.

Pensione America

Opened in 2025 after a four-year renovation, Pensione America brings new life to a historic villa in the heart of Forte dei Marmi. Originally built in 1899 as the private home of a Roman artist, the property became a pensione, or “boarding house,” in 1922. Though it’s now a high-end hotel, the Maestrelli family, which owns and operates the hotel through its hospitality brand Collezione EM, kept the original name as a nod to both the villa’s history and Forte dei Marmi’s long tradition as a summer retreat for aristocratic Florentine families.

The atmosphere is breezy and coastal, with bamboo and rattan furnishings, oversize banana plants, stacks of books, and a baby grand piano in the common spaces. Mornings begin with a leisurely breakfast of cream-filled cornetti (an Italian pastry), eggs, and fresh smoothies before guests pedal borrowed bicycles toward the beach or the boutiques in town. The family also owns nearby beach club Bagno Assunta, where retro wooden loungers and a relaxed seafood restaurant exude Riviera charm.

Reschio Hotel

Count Benedikt Bolza moved to Umbria in 1999 to help his father transform the derelict farmhouses on the sprawling Reschio estate into a series of luxury farmhouses. He and his wife raised their five children in the thousand-year-old castle on the estate before transforming it into a timeless five-star boutique hotel.

By the time they started renovating the castle, Count Bolza, an architect, had already established a successful design practice creating bespoke furniture for the villas. So it was only natural for him to design original furniture and lighting for the hotel. Every detail in the 36 guest rooms and suites, with their four-poster beds and wood-beam ceilings, has been meticulously planned for the visitor experience, from the dressing tables with hidden sockets to the custom espresso machines. Reschio was designed to make guests slow down and embrace simple countryside pursuits, from foraging and gathering wildflowers to riding horses and falconry.

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Santavenere

The sprawling Santavenere sits in one of the villages recognized by I Borghi più belli d’Italia, the country’s organization devoted to preserving Italy’s most beautiful historic towns. It was originally built in the 1950s by Count Stefano Rivetti, who drew celebrities and musicians to the property during its heyday. The hotel was recently revived by Paolo Barletta, the developer behind the Orient Express La Minerva in Rome, and Aldo Melpignano, the hotelier behind Borgo Egnazia.

A charming retro vibe still reigns, from colorful tile floors and antiques in the rooms to the extensive gardens, beach club, and pool. Best of all, the craggy coastline and sleepy village nearby evoke the Amalfi Coast in the 1950s, before the crowds arrived.

Vico Milano

In a city increasingly dominated by big hotel brands, Vico Milano seems like a secret hotel for Milan insiders. Hidden behind the courtyard of a residential building in Milan’s Corso Genova neighborhood, the hotel is the passion project of Neri Baccheschi Berti—whose family owns Castello di Vicarello—and his wife, Akriti Baccheschi Berti.

The couple filled the intimate subterranean lounge and seven rooms and suites with an eclectic mix of midcentury-modern pieces and vintage finds from their travels. They recently added a dual speakeasy and restaurant where you might start with a Martini before moving on to a rich risotto alla Milanese.

Villa Paola

Villa Paola, on a cliff overlooking the historic center of Tropea, occupies a former 16th-century convent connected to a Liberty-style villa surrounded by terraced gardens filled with bougainvillea, caper vines, and other Mediterranean greenery. It’s a 15-minute walk to the center of town, yet the property seems like a peaceful respite: Take a dip in the infinity pool overlooking the Mediterranean, practice yoga beneath the trees, or linger over slow meals on the terrace.

A recent renovation refreshed the hotel’s 14 rooms and suites with earth tones and natural materials that complement the building’s historic bones. The fine-dining restaurant, De’ Minimi, is considered one of the best in Tropea, while the more relaxed bistro serves light lunches and aperitifs on a terrace overlooking the sea.

Violino d’Oro

A five-minute walk from Piazza San Marco, Violino d’Oro offers a stylish retreat from Venice’s busiest streets. Part of Collezione EM, the Maestrelli family’s small collection of Italian hotels, the property is a celebration of Italian craftsmanship and design. Sara Maestrelli and her aunt Elena conceived the hotel as the home of well-traveled collectors, filling it with pieces that span centuries and styles.

Throughout the hotel are 18th-century gilded mirrors hand-painted with carnival figures, midcentury lamps by Gae Aulenti and Carlo Scarpa, and sofas upholstered in fabrics by Rubelli in collaboration with British artist Luke Edward Hall.

The 32 guest rooms continue the eclectic aesthetic with chinoiserie wardrobe panels, vintage-inspired credenzas concealing minibars and espresso machines, and gold-painted wooden boxes crafted by a Florentine artisan. Il Piccolo Bar in the lobby lounge serves creative cocktails and cicchetti (snacks and small plates), while Il Piccolo Restaurant focuses on seafood from the Venetian lagoon alongside plant-forward dishes.

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