Hawai‘i

More than 2,000 miles from the nearest continent (North America), Hawai‘i has always lured travelers seeking paradise in the Pacific. Polynesian explorers first paddled into the islands between 300 and 500 CE. Following centuries of civilization, the Hawai‘ians first met Europeans in 1778—sparking a story whose ultimate end was American statehood in 1959. Tourism is now the state’s largest industry, and most travelers are familiar with stock photos of hula, leis, and surfboards. But as with most idylls, there’s much more to discover beyond the pages of glossy brochures.

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Photo by Kyle Johnson

Overview

Beaches

Eight major islands comprise the Hawai‘ian archipelago, meaning there’s coastline in abundance and a beach for everyone. Adventurers skirt the edges of Kaua‘i’s Napali Coast by kayak. Sun worshipers lounge around lazy Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu and on Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, where the sun feels so close it’s hard to believe you’re at sea level. Beaches like Punaluu Beach on the Big Island—with its black sand—and the Red Sand Beach on Maui reward day-trippers with their psychedelic scenery. Meanwhile, the gravity-defying waves of the Banzai Pipeline hurl themselves against O‘ahu’s North Shore in winter, and the churning surf of nearby Waimea Bay seems like it can’t be made of the same gentle stuff that kisses the coast off Lāna‘i.

Away from the Beach

Rings of coastline protect each island’s heart, and it’s well worth leaving the beach to explore inland. On the Big Island, travelers dip into the Waipio Valley—scooped out of the island’s north side—or summit the Mauna Kea volcano at twilight to touch the stars above. On Oʻahu, hikers scale the Koko Head Crater or follow trails of rainbows dancing above the lush Manoa Valley. No matter where they are based, visitors seeking to learn more about the archipelago have options for various guided tours. Paniolo Adventures, for example, guides horseback rides that offer views of the coastline, volcanoes, and ancient historical sites.

When’s the best time to go to Hawai‘i?

With great weather throughout the year, there’s no bad time to visit Hawaiʻi. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the islands.

Food and drink to try in Hawai‘i

The bounty of land and sea is evident in Hawaiʻi’s cuisine, which shows South Pacific, Asian, and even Portuguese influences. Roy’s, a popular restaurant located on three islands, serves blackened ahi and macadamia nut-crusted opah, while Yama’s Fish Market in Honolulu presents numerous appetizers and simple staples like beef stew. Humble roadside stands serve lau lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf) or poke (seafood tartare). Hawaiʻian hospitality has been exported in a glass via the mai tai and lava flow cocktails. For something sweet, try a deep-fried malasada doughnut from Leonard’s Bakery in Honolulu, a chocolate haupia cream pie from Ted’s Bakery on Sunset Beach, or a syrupy shave ice from the famous Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa.

Culture in Hawai‘i

Hawaiʻi was colonized by Polynesians and has long drawn visitors from Asia, Oceania, and North America. The ‘Iolani Palace—where Hawaiʻi’s last royal family lived and ruled—should be the first stop for anyone interested in the islands’ heritage. Across the street, the historic Ali’iolani Hale building was featured on the TV series Hawaii Five-0. Also check out the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, where fascinating artifacts range from ancient weapons to the feathered cloak of King Kamehameha I. To this day, the islands’ varied influences are united by the uniquely Hawaiʻian spirit of aloha.

How to get around Hawai‘i

Most domestic and international arrivals land in Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air, and Mokulele Airlines operate inter-island flights. The islands are large enough to make a car rental worthwhile. If you plan to stay in one place, taxis and shuttles are easy to arrange.

Practical Information

Credit cards are not accepted everywhere, so travelers should carry some cash when shopping. A 15–20 percent tip is standard for restaurant bills, 15 percent for taxi fares, and $1–2 per bag handled at a hotel. Tips for tours start at $5 and increase based on tour length. Outlets are 110 volt.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Every Saturday from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., the island’s largest open-air market sprawls across the University of Hawai‘i Maui College campus, creating a lively scene with more than 200 vendors. Many of Maui’s best boutiques sell their wares here, but for much cheaper prices than at their brick-and-mortar locations. Browse for muumuus, wood carvings, and other handmade crafts like bone and shell jewelry, or treat yourself to a shave ice while perusing piles of leis, local fruit, and homemade baked goods. The market is especially strong when it comes to street food—don’t miss the spam kebabs, banana bread, and goji kombucha.
Open since 1932, this pit stop on the road to Lahaina is most famous for its Hawaiian hot dogs. They’re just standard red franks, grilled and stuffed in a bun, but Maui’s pro surfers and their fans—who usually stop here on their way to Olowalu Beach—have elevated the snack to almost cult status. If you’re not one for hot dogs, the general store also sells boiled peanuts, shave ice, and Spam musubi, along with an abbreviated Mexican menu when the kitchen’s cranking. In between bites, take time to browse the shop’s collection of locally made souvenirs and appreciate its unique decor. A late employee had a soft spot for starving artists and would often trade food for artworks, asking only that the pieces incorporated his favorite vehicle—a Volkswagen Beetle.
Hawaii Sea Spirits is behind Ocean Organic Vodka, widely recognized for its turquoise bottle inspired by the 14th-century Japanese glass fishing net floats that used to wash ashore in Maui in abundance. At the company’s distillery on the slopes of Haleakala, entrepreneur Shay Smith desalinates deep-ocean mineral water from off the Kona Coast of Hawaii, then adds the bounty of his 80-acre organic farm, where he and his team cultivate more than 30 varieties of Polynesian sugarcane without the use of GMOs, herbicides, or pesticides. Discover the intricacies of his harvesting and distilling process on a farm tour, which takes place seven days a week, then hit the gift shop and stock up on vodka to take home.
At Island Sole in Lahaina, the authentic, locally made gifts are designed to help shoppers “find their aloha.” Head here for shirts and flip-flops in tropical colors, home decor like jellyfish coasters and ukulele-shaped table clocks, and the shop’s signature longboard letters, which function as one-of-a-kind signs with customizable letters, icons, and characters attached to a wooden surfboard base. If you’re looking for some wall art, pay special attention to the palm-and-wave paintings on birchwood by Danielle Groff and the larger, laser-engraved maps of the Hawaiian Isles.
An antidote to hectic modern life, Travaasa Hana, on Maui’s remote eastern coast, feels like a step back in time. There are no televisions, radios, clocks, or air-conditioning (ceiling fans and panoramic sliding doors capture ocean breezes) in nearly all of the 70 cottages and suites, but you won’t miss them. Your days will be spent soaking up Hawaiian culture, whether that means fishing with throw nets, making traditional ti leaf leis, or enjoying an open-air ukulele lesson. Of course, no visit to these parts is complete without a journey along the legendary Road to Hana, which lies to the north and west and promises primordial views of waterfalls, gardens, and secluded swimming holes. Upon your return to the resort, savor the fresh-caught specialties at the Preserve Kitchen & Bar, overlooking Hana Bay.
Of all the accommodations in Maui’s tony Wailea resort community, the 22-acre, waterfront Fairmont Kea Lani may be the most family-friendly of the bunch thanks in large part to its all-suite-and-villa setup. The property’s 450 guest rooms are some of the biggest on the island—the smallest suites start at a generous 860 square feet, while the two- and three-bedroom beachfront villas weigh in at 1,800 square feet and up. All cater to families, with separate sleeping and living areas, entertainment systems, furnished outdoor space (for lounging and dining), sleeper sofas, and some type of kitchen facilities, while villas encourage group gatherings with plunge pools and BBQ grills. Both adults and kids will love the deep-soaking tubs, too. Elsewhere, three indoor and three outdoor pools provide space for fun when kids’ club activities (among them volcano building, hula lessons, and tide pool excursions) aren’t on the agenda. Grown-ups can also amuse themselves with activities like outrigger canoe journeys, cultural programs, tee times at three nearby championship golf courses, and locally inspired treatments at the Willow Stream Spa, which offers dedicated fitness and wellness programs. Fuel your adventures at the five on-site restaurants, including the seafood-focused Nick’s Fishmarket Maui (with its 2,000-bottle-strong wine cellar) and the award-winning Kō, where the flavors are inspired by Hawaii, the Philippines, Korea, and beyond.
One of Maui’s best hikes, this trail climbs 800 feet through the lush Kipahulu area of Haleakala National Park. Half a mile from the visitor center, an overlook provides sweeping views of the gorge and the almost-200-foot-long “horsetail” of Makahiku Falls. Continue on past a sprawling banyan, stopping to marvel at the sunlight trickling through the dense bamboo forest. Here, you’ll also find the even more dramatic cascade of Waimoku Falls, which plunges 400 feet down a sheer-walled lava amphitheater. If you’re wary of tackling the four-mile round-trip hike by yourself, know that park rangers offer guided tours every Sunday at 10 a.m. Reservations are available at 9 a.m. a week ahead of time.
An ancient atoll, Molokini lies 2.5 miles off Maui’s south coast, where the water is calm, clear, and teeming with marine life. Here, snorkelers and scuba divers can expect up to 150 feet of visibility, allowing for perfect views of yellow tang, parrot fish, black triggerfish, bluefin trevally, and even moray eels. To explore it for yourself, book a tour with Maui Classic Charters, which sails to Molokini in a 55-foot catamaran with a glass-bottomed viewing room. Choose one of the early-morning trips for a better chance of calm seas and bigger sea creatures like octopus and eagle rays, and bring along snacks, sunscreen, and, for those who run cold, perhaps a rash guard or thin wet suit, especially in the winter months.
In 2012, one of the world’s richest men—Oracle founder Larry Ellison—bought 97 percent of the island of Lanai. The single sweeping deal (reputed to cost $300 million) included the exquisite Four Seasons Resort, overlooking a marine reserve. The resort’s dining experience par excellence is Nobu, where celebrity chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa presides over the perfect marriage of Japanese dishes and Peruvian ingredients. Kick things off with crispy Brussels sprouts or scallops with jalapeño salsa, then move on to sushi, hand rolls, or Wagyu beef. Save room for the Bento Box dessert with green tea ice cream and chocolate flourless cake. Or go old-school, if it’s on the menu, and order the mochi pound cake backed by yuzu-cherry jelly and peanut butter ice cream.
Local restaurateur Hide Sakurai—also the force behind Shokudo next door—brings healthy grab-and-go options to the heart of Honolulu’s Ala Moana, the state’s largest shopping center. An artisan café and pinot wine bar, Bread & Butter seats around 50 and serves three meals a day. Argentine chef Arnaldo “Masa” Gushiken adds hints of Spanish and Japanese cuisine to the otherwise very locavore American menu. Highlights include the beet-peach-arugula salad and the house-smoked-ahi sandwich, balanced by the bright crunch of pickled vegetables in its side salad. Regulars also rave about the single servings of paella, the bell-pepper-goat-cheese dip, and the decadent truffle chicken starring an entire game hen.