South Carolina

No longer a sleepy Southern backwater, South Carolina’s star is growing at a rapid clip, thanks to Charleston’s burgeoning culinary scene and the transformation of towns like Greenville and Beaufort into hip, cultural hubs. The state’s capital, Columbia, is home to the University of South Carolina and anchors the Piedmont region. Rivers flow northwest to southeast into numerous lakes that dot the state, offering outdoor recreation and boating opportunities. Whether you’re teeing off on a golf vacation in Myrtle Beach or exploring the state’s small towns via back roads, the secret is out: South Carolina is ripe for discovery.

St. Michaels Church and Broad St. in Charleston, SC

Photo by Susanne Pommer/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to South Carolina?

Geographically, South Carolina ranges from the barrier islands and pine forests of the coastal Lowcountry to the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains in the Upstate. Expect temperatures in the 90s and above across the state during summer. In the winter, the subtropical climate of Charleston and Hilton Head brings mild, sunny days that rarely reach freezing temperatures, even at night. Greenville experiences a full range of seasons, including a striking, fiery-toned autumn. In Charleston, tourism peaks in the spring, thanks to pleasant weather and events like the Southeastern Wildlife Exposition, Charleston Wine + Food, and Spoleto, a three-week celebration of the arts held each May and June. Retreats like Lakes Keowee and Jocassee in the Upstate are busiest during the summer months.

How to get around South Carolina

Charleston is home to the state’s busiest airport, although travelers can also fly direct to Columbia, Greenville, and Myrtle Beach from several East Coast locations. Locals frequently drive between cities to save on flights, since different airlines are represented at each. Public transportation is scarce in South Carolina, although Uber is popular in each major city. If you’re not staying in a central area or you plan to travel around the state, a car is a necessity.

Can’t miss things to do in South Carolina

- In Myrtle Beach, it’s possible to tee off at a different world-class golf course each day for weeks, although Kiawah Island—host to the PGA Championship—is where you’ll find South Carolina’s most celebrated links.

- Charleston is the state’s culinary hub, and home to dozens of award-winning restaurants, chefs, and food personalities. Many visitors come here just to eat, filling in time with carriage tours and day trips to the neighboring beach communities.

- History buffs should make time for a day trip to Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor or any of the other numerous Civil and Revolutionary War sites and battlefields that dot the state.

- For many, South Carolina’s highlights lie at a roadside produce stand or barbecue joint along a country drive, or in idyllic small towns like Beaufort, Conway, and Aiken.

- Over 200 miles of coastline draw families to South Carolina each year, with Myrtle Beach and Hilton Head being the most popular beach vacation destinations. A robust state park system also attracts those with children, offering everything from beachfront camping on Hunting Island to the scenic mountain trails at Table Rock and Caesars Head.

Food and drink to try in South Carolina

- South Carolina’s famous seafood is best enjoyed in the Lowcountry, where shrimp boats and oystermen still ply the waters, delivering their catch to be cooked and consumed soon after it leaves the sea. Although Charleston now has its share of raw oyster bars, the local bivalves are historically steamed over fire and served communally with melted butter or cocktail sauce.

- Barbecue here means pulled pork, smoked overnight. In the Piedmont, the indigenous sauce is mustard-based. Along the coast, you’re likely to find tomato- and vinegar-based options on the table, as well.

- In Charleston, Asian and international cuisines have gradually begun to take root and influence local menus. And each March, Charleston Wine + Food draws chefs and patrons from around the country, showing off the eclectic, energized culinary scene that the city has fostered.

Culture in South Carolina

Every small town in South Carolina seems to have an annual celebration for a local crop or cultural icon, be it grits, sweet potatoes, or bluegrass music, and each is unique and memorable in its own way. For more sophisticated entertainment, Greenville’s Peace Center is the Upstate’s hub for dance, symphony, and theater. Visual arts enthusiasts look to the Columbia Museum of Art or Charleston’s Gibbes Museum of Art, which boasts one of the South’s most notable collections. Each May and June in Charleston, Spoleto Festival USA is an international affair, hosting U.S. debuts of operas, plays, and concerts from the world’s foremost artists.

Local travel tips for South Carolina

- Like anywhere, you’ll feel like you’re in the know when you manage to avoid the crowds. In Charleston, plan your downtown sightseeing for the morning, before the heat settles in, and scoot to Sullivan’s Island or Folly Beach after lunch to catch the afternoon breeze.

- Spoleto and other springtime festivals are an excellent time to visit the Holy City, but book accommodations well in advance, or stay at one of the neighboring beaches and commute 20 minutes into town for day trips and dinner.

- Columbia slows down and swelters in the mid-summer heat, and is best visited during the spring and fall when USC is in session and the city hums with activity (reserve a room early if you’re there on the same weekend as a USC football game). Greenville is pleasant all year, but comes alive in the fall when the surrounding mountains glow yellow and orange with falling leaves.

Local Resources

- Charleston City Paper for event listings

- Holy City Sinner for Charleston news and events- Free Times for Columbia event listings

- Greenville Journal for daily news and event listings

Guide Editor

Stratton Lawrence is a writer and editor based in Folly Beach, South Carolina, where he settled and started a family after roaming from New Orleans to New York to Rome to the California coast. He’s the author of Folly Beach in Arcadia Publishing’s Images of America series, a co-author of two Fodor’s guides to Charleston and the Carolinas, and a regular contributor to Zagat and Thrillist. When he’s not writing about food, music, and travel, he’s performing his own acoustic songs, catching waves on his paddleboard, and hanging out with his wife—photographer Hunter McRae—and their son.

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Chef Drew Hedlund combines classic and contemporary Southern fare here in a retired 1940s naval building on the east side of the Charleston peninsula. Long used for storage by the South Carolina Port Authority, today it’s home to one of the city’s most popular waterfront restaurants, with incomparable views of the harbor. Some highlights of the menu include crispy whole flounder with apricot glaze, Charleston shrimp and grits, crab cakes, Lowcountry boil and lump crab bruschetta.
Located on Sullivan’s Island, Fort Moultrie was a key defensive position in controlling Charleston Harbor during the Revolutionary War. In June 1776, the Royal Navy of Britain attacked what was then called Fort Sullivan, firing cannonballs directly into its walls. Colonel William Moultrie and his patriot regime were able to hold the British off, however, since the walls were constructed from the soft trunks of the island’s palmetto tree and could absorb the cannonballs rather than break apart. Eventually renamed for Moultrie, the fort was rebuilt in 1798, then “modernized” in 1870 to include two massive cannons that still stand today. Dive deep into the history at the National Park Service’s museum before touring the armaments and taking in the unparalleled views of Charleston Harbor and the Atlantic Ocean.
Despite its refined food and atmosphere, the Park Cafe is really a neighborhood spot at heart. It opens up at 7 a.m. on weekdays, dishing out top-notch coffee and avocado toast, and stays open into the evening with great cocktails and a diverse menu full of local, seasonal ingredients. Try the mushroom-and-walnut pâté, which comes with raw vegetables and crostini—and for a good deal, don’t miss their happy hour Mondays-Fridays from 3-6 p.m.
When local restaurateurs Brooks Reitz and Tim Mink shut down Saint Alban, Charleston was distraught. They had something different in mind for the space, however, and replaced their airy, all-day café with a cozy steak house straight out of the 1950s. Much like its predecessor, Little Jack’s has quickly established itself as a neighborhood favorite. It’s open every day from 11 a.m. until late in the evening and serves classic, meat-heavy dishes (steak, sliders, pastrami) alongside seasonal salads. A solid menu of classic cocktails (Harvey Wallbangers, sidecars) rounds out the throwback experience.
It seems criminal that what many consider the best barbecue in Charleston comes from a Texas pit-master, but such is the nature of a global food scene in a thriving culinary city. John Lewis arrived in town with focus and intention, constructing an array of smokers that slow-cook hundreds of pounds of brisket, pork, and “hot guts” (sausage) each day. His expansive, counter-serve joint accommodates grab-and-go meals as well as extended feasts, for at least as long as diners can fend off the meat sweats. If you’re indecisive—which is natural at Lewis Barbecue—opt for the Sancho Loco, a mountain of a sandwich that piles guts, pickled red onions, pulled pork, and chopped beef between two slices that do their best to accommodate the onslaught of sauce and smoky flavor. Regulars know not to miss the green chili corn pudding—it’s a taste of Texas that’s more than welcome in the Lowcountry.
Owners Laura and Riccardo Bonino opened this local staple in 2011, bringing inspired, authentic flavors from Italy‘s Piedmont region to small-town South Carolina. The late author Pat Conroy was fond of eating here, a fact that the restaurant plays up in their marketing. But hype aside, the kitchen’s use of seasonal ingredients in dishes like tagliatelle verdi (handmade kale pasta) and seared scallops makes for a memorable meal.
Half market, half restaurant, this brightly colored kitchen proudly serves exemplary shrimp and grits and crab cake sandwiches, among a menu of locally sourced sandwiches and salads. After enjoying breakfast or lunch, take home a jar of pickled okra or fresh preserves. There’s a sister location on Hilton Head, and a farmstand on the way out of Beaufort, in case you forgot to pick up a taste of the South for your family back home.