Hawai‘i

More than 2,000 miles from the nearest continent (North America), Hawai‘i has always lured travelers seeking paradise in the Pacific. Polynesian explorers first paddled into the islands between 300 and 500 CE. Following centuries of civilization, the Hawai‘ians first met Europeans in 1778—sparking a story whose ultimate end was American statehood in 1959. Tourism is now the state’s largest industry, and most travelers are familiar with stock photos of hula, leis, and surfboards. But as with most idylls, there’s much more to discover beyond the pages of glossy brochures.

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Photo by Kyle Johnson

Overview

Beaches

Eight major islands comprise the Hawai‘ian archipelago, meaning there’s coastline in abundance and a beach for everyone. Adventurers skirt the edges of Kaua‘i’s Napali Coast by kayak. Sun worshipers lounge around lazy Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu and on Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, where the sun feels so close it’s hard to believe you’re at sea level. Beaches like Punaluu Beach on the Big Island—with its black sand—and the Red Sand Beach on Maui reward day-trippers with their psychedelic scenery. Meanwhile, the gravity-defying waves of the Banzai Pipeline hurl themselves against O‘ahu’s North Shore in winter, and the churning surf of nearby Waimea Bay seems like it can’t be made of the same gentle stuff that kisses the coast off Lāna‘i.

Away from the Beach

Rings of coastline protect each island’s heart, and it’s well worth leaving the beach to explore inland. On the Big Island, travelers dip into the Waipio Valley—scooped out of the island’s north side—or summit the Mauna Kea volcano at twilight to touch the stars above. On Oʻahu, hikers scale the Koko Head Crater or follow trails of rainbows dancing above the lush Manoa Valley. No matter where they are based, visitors seeking to learn more about the archipelago have options for various guided tours. Paniolo Adventures, for example, guides horseback rides that offer views of the coastline, volcanoes, and ancient historical sites.

When’s the best time to go to Hawai‘i?

With great weather throughout the year, there’s no bad time to visit Hawaiʻi. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the islands.

Food and drink to try in Hawai‘i

The bounty of land and sea is evident in Hawaiʻi’s cuisine, which shows South Pacific, Asian, and even Portuguese influences. Roy’s, a popular restaurant located on three islands, serves blackened ahi and macadamia nut-crusted opah, while Yama’s Fish Market in Honolulu presents numerous appetizers and simple staples like beef stew. Humble roadside stands serve lau lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf) or poke (seafood tartare). Hawaiʻian hospitality has been exported in a glass via the mai tai and lava flow cocktails. For something sweet, try a deep-fried malasada doughnut from Leonard’s Bakery in Honolulu, a chocolate haupia cream pie from Ted’s Bakery on Sunset Beach, or a syrupy shave ice from the famous Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa.

Culture in Hawai‘i

Hawaiʻi was colonized by Polynesians and has long drawn visitors from Asia, Oceania, and North America. The ‘Iolani Palace—where Hawaiʻi’s last royal family lived and ruled—should be the first stop for anyone interested in the islands’ heritage. Across the street, the historic Ali’iolani Hale building was featured on the TV series Hawaii Five-0. Also check out the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, where fascinating artifacts range from ancient weapons to the feathered cloak of King Kamehameha I. To this day, the islands’ varied influences are united by the uniquely Hawaiʻian spirit of aloha.

How to get around Hawai‘i

Most domestic and international arrivals land in Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air, and Mokulele Airlines operate inter-island flights. The islands are large enough to make a car rental worthwhile. If you plan to stay in one place, taxis and shuttles are easy to arrange.

Practical Information

Credit cards are not accepted everywhere, so travelers should carry some cash when shopping. A 15–20 percent tip is standard for restaurant bills, 15 percent for taxi fares, and $1–2 per bag handled at a hotel. Tips for tours start at $5 and increase based on tour length. Outlets are 110 volt.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Foodies from all over flock to Mama’s Fish House for ocean-to-plate dishes in a postcard-perfect setting. At this tiki bar meets restaurant, the fish is delivered daily by local anglers and many dishes showcase regional ingredients like Maui onions, Hawaiian chili pepper, and Hana ginger. As a young couple in California, owners Floyd and Doris Christenson fell in love with Maui while on vacation. In 1960, they sailed back across the Pacific, navigating only by sun and sextant, and anchored back on their dream island, where they eventually opened Mama’s. Today, the hot spot can be crowded and pricey, but few begrudge the premium for the fresh fare and stunning panoramas. Make a reservation well in advance for an ocean-view table.
Boasting some of the best views in Kauai, this dreamy eatery serves up spectacular sunsets alongside splurgeworthy lunches and dinners. Start with the signature Monkeypod Mai Tai: A potent blend of Old Lahaina rums and orange curaçao, graced by honey foam. Then try the Thai-inspired coconut crab cakes, followed by the oven-roasted Jidori chicken with goat-cheese polenta or the wasabi-crusted fish with passion-fruit beurre blanc. Vegetarians won’t go hungry either, thanks to dishes like coconut corn chowder sweetened with local lemongrass and slow-roasted beets with tomato-cilantro salad and tempura asparagus. Often voted the island’s top restaurant by Honolulu Magazine, Beach House has also won a steady streak of awards from Wine Spectator.
Take a riverboat up the Wailua—which translates as the “river of the great sacred spirit"—fed by the Mount Waialeale shield volcano, one of the wettest spots on the planet. Seven temples once stood along Hawaii’s longest and only navigable freshwater passage. Today, the remains of four are still visible, alongside petroglyphs and rocks where the island’s alii (royalty) would give birth. Stretch your legs at the stunning Fern Grotto: Verdant plants blanket the roof of the volcanic-rock cave there. Smith’s offers 80-minute tours there on open-air boats, which include the songs and stories of ancient Hawai’I, plus a bonus hula lesson (smithskauai.com).
The 112-room Surfjack Hotel channels 1960’s Hawaii, with vintage upholstery on the headboards, reed ceilings, and midcentury modern furnishings. The onsite Swim Club, with its outdoor pool bar, hosts music events and movie nights. Don’t miss a meal at Mahina & Sun from celebrated Honolulu-born chef Ed Kenney, whose menu showcases island cuisine and ingredients, or a trip to the Olive & Oliver boutique, whose clothing and accessories line are inspired by Hawaiian culture.
This lovely state park stretches along the rugged volcanic shoreline of western Maui, three miles from Hana. It’s best explored on the 2.2-mile hike that starts at the black-sand beach and follows the dramatic coast, passing lava tubes, rock arches, blowholes, and Polynesia’s largest heiau (an ancient Hawaiian temple) along the way. Avoid standing too close to the geysers as well as the lava benches near the ocean, which can crumble easily, and watch out for high surf. If you’re looking to cool down after your trek, take the loop trail to the park’s freshwater caves, where you can explore two separate chambers (the first tends to be clearer and more inviting).
Perched 300 feet above the Pacific on 15 verdant acres, Hotel Wailea is a former members’ club that still feels like a hidden enclave of cool. In 2014, new owners invested $15 million in a redesign that left 72 one-bedroom suites with white oak floors, Sub-Zero appliances, and Hawaii-inspired art. Still, it’s the pool that really wins over guests—it’s calm and quiet (thanks to the hotel’s no-kids policy); there are umbrella-shaded loungers and bungalows with fans for when you’ve had too much sun; and the beyond-gracious staff are always at the ready with water, cocktails, kombucha, and coconut water. The hotel lounge offers free wine and appetizers at 5 p.m. on Friday nights, while the farm-to-fork restaurant highlights produce grown in the resort’s own garden. Complimentary on-site activities include yoga, outrigger canoeing, and mixology classes, but guests can take the hotel’s Tesla Model X house vehicles anywhere in Wailea or rent an electric bike and cruise the South Maui coast if they want to get off property.
A Hawaiian fantasyland on Oahu’s more remote leeward coast, about 40 minutes from Waikiki, Aulani is so seductive—for all ages—that many guests are loath to leave the property at all. And who can blame them? The beach is an idyllic cove (albeit a man-made one) stocked with kayaks, boogie boards, and everything else little beach bums could want. Then there are the three pools, including one for adults only and one filled with tropical fish for snorkelers-in-training, two impressive waterslides, and the biggest crowd-pleaser of them all, a 900-foot-long lazy river where guests, big and small, splash around on inner tubes as they meander around a faux-rock grotto. Goofy, Minnie, Mickey, and the rest—all in their vacation outfits—make occasional cameos at the breakfast buffet or by (sometimes, in) the pool. But while Aulani is most assuredly every kid’s dream, it is not every parent’s nightmare. The resort decor is more traditionally Hawaiian than obnoxiously Magic Kingdom; the lobby is built to recall an old canoe house, on a grand scale, and is covered in murals, painted by local artists, depicting island life. Hawaiian storytellers gather around a fire pit at night, and rooms have warm woods, with a single subtle reference to the Mouse King—a wooden carving of Mickey with a surfboard and ukulele that doubles as a desk lamp. Perhaps best of all, the Aulani has an outstanding, supervised kids’ club that’s free to guests ages 3 to 12. Babysitters are available for kids as young as six weeks old.
Both of Waikiki’s Outrigger hotels are a good value, but this one is a little bigger and a little quieter. It’s right on the beach, just north of the main resort cluster, and though a short walk to the middle of the action, far enough to feel out of the fray. The hotel itself is a quintessential Hawaiian family resort—big and friendly, with an unmistakable good-time vibe, old-school Polynesian decor throughout, and any number of activities on offer. The pool is set back from the beach and nothing fancy (no waterslides, no swim-up bar, and up against a giant wall), but it’s large enough for a serious game of Marco Polo, and there are plenty of lounge chairs to go around. Perhaps the best reason to stay here is the beach—a fairly narrow but sparkling white strand with more elbow room than its sister beaches; the rocky bottom may have something to do with that, but it’s a good place to learn to surf and a great place to catnap in the sun. One warning: the hotel lobby may feel overly commercial to some, what with a row of gift shops and a hard-to-miss timeshare desk, but it’s easy enough to ignore, if you wish.
A few blocks up from the beach, the Coconut Waikiki is a bright and cheery budget-minded boutique hotel. The rooms are plenty roomy (197 to 265 square feet for the standard quarters; up to 1,200 square feet for the largest suites), and all have kitchenettes and private lanais. The look is fresh and modern, with light wood, white linens, and pops of color in armchairs and pillows. Amenities are minimal (no restaurant, no bar, and a teeny pool), but there’s free, speedy Wi-Fi, DIY laundry (for a fee), and, every morning, friendly international guests gathering in the lobby to toast their own waffles at the complimentary continental breakfast.
Built in the Roaring Twenties, the Royal Hawaiian ushered in the glam age of Waikiki Beach. The so-called Pink Palace, a Spanish Moorish–style confection set on bright-green lawns was, at the time, the priciest hotel project in the Pacific and a fast favorite of Hollywood royalty and East Coast blue bloods (who, in those early years, arrived by steamship, along with their piles of trunks and chauffeured cars). For those first few decades, anyone who was anyone, it seemed, stayed at the Royal Hawaiian; on any given day, you might see the likes of Spencer Tracy autographing a coconut or Joe DiMaggio surfing off the hotel’s beach. Once other luxury hotels sprouted up on Oahu, the Royal Hawaiian’s star faded some, but after a massive renovation in 2008, it became a member of Starwood’s Luxury Hotel Collection and, once again, one of the top spots on the island. The makeover managed to keep those graceful old bones and art deco flourishes (miles of tile, sweeping arches), while giving the whole place a long overdue upgrade. Genteel surroundings aside, the hotel is as lively as ever. But at night, when the oceanfront Mai Tar bar is rocking, guests can still scope out quiet corners. Retreat to the gracious portico lined with rocking chairs or the garden pathways dreamily lit by torches, and you’ll discover that the romance of old Waikiki lives on.