Hawai‘i

More than 2,000 miles from the nearest continent (North America), Hawai‘i has always lured travelers seeking paradise in the Pacific. Polynesian explorers first paddled into the islands between 300 and 500 CE. Following centuries of civilization, the Hawai‘ians first met Europeans in 1778—sparking a story whose ultimate end was American statehood in 1959. Tourism is now the state’s largest industry, and most travelers are familiar with stock photos of hula, leis, and surfboards. But as with most idylls, there’s much more to discover beyond the pages of glossy brochures.

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Photo by Kyle Johnson

Overview

Beaches

Eight major islands comprise the Hawai‘ian archipelago, meaning there’s coastline in abundance and a beach for everyone. Adventurers skirt the edges of Kaua‘i’s Napali Coast by kayak. Sun worshipers lounge around lazy Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu and on Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, where the sun feels so close it’s hard to believe you’re at sea level. Beaches like Punaluu Beach on the Big Island—with its black sand—and the Red Sand Beach on Maui reward day-trippers with their psychedelic scenery. Meanwhile, the gravity-defying waves of the Banzai Pipeline hurl themselves against O‘ahu’s North Shore in winter, and the churning surf of nearby Waimea Bay seems like it can’t be made of the same gentle stuff that kisses the coast off Lāna‘i.

Away from the Beach

Rings of coastline protect each island’s heart, and it’s well worth leaving the beach to explore inland. On the Big Island, travelers dip into the Waipio Valley—scooped out of the island’s north side—or summit the Mauna Kea volcano at twilight to touch the stars above. On Oʻahu, hikers scale the Koko Head Crater or follow trails of rainbows dancing above the lush Manoa Valley. No matter where they are based, visitors seeking to learn more about the archipelago have options for various guided tours. Paniolo Adventures, for example, guides horseback rides that offer views of the coastline, volcanoes, and ancient historical sites.

When’s the best time to go to Hawai‘i?

With great weather throughout the year, there’s no bad time to visit Hawaiʻi. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the islands.

Food and drink to try in Hawai‘i

The bounty of land and sea is evident in Hawaiʻi’s cuisine, which shows South Pacific, Asian, and even Portuguese influences. Roy’s, a popular restaurant located on three islands, serves blackened ahi and macadamia nut-crusted opah, while Yama’s Fish Market in Honolulu presents numerous appetizers and simple staples like beef stew. Humble roadside stands serve lau lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf) or poke (seafood tartare). Hawaiʻian hospitality has been exported in a glass via the mai tai and lava flow cocktails. For something sweet, try a deep-fried malasada doughnut from Leonard’s Bakery in Honolulu, a chocolate haupia cream pie from Ted’s Bakery on Sunset Beach, or a syrupy shave ice from the famous Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa.

Culture in Hawai‘i

Hawaiʻi was colonized by Polynesians and has long drawn visitors from Asia, Oceania, and North America. The ‘Iolani Palace—where Hawaiʻi’s last royal family lived and ruled—should be the first stop for anyone interested in the islands’ heritage. Across the street, the historic Ali’iolani Hale building was featured on the TV series Hawaii Five-0. Also check out the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, where fascinating artifacts range from ancient weapons to the feathered cloak of King Kamehameha I. To this day, the islands’ varied influences are united by the uniquely Hawaiʻian spirit of aloha.

How to get around Hawai‘i

Most domestic and international arrivals land in Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air, and Mokulele Airlines operate inter-island flights. The islands are large enough to make a car rental worthwhile. If you plan to stay in one place, taxis and shuttles are easy to arrange.

Practical Information

Credit cards are not accepted everywhere, so travelers should carry some cash when shopping. A 15–20 percent tip is standard for restaurant bills, 15 percent for taxi fares, and $1–2 per bag handled at a hotel. Tips for tours start at $5 and increase based on tour length. Outlets are 110 volt.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
A fairly new addition to the Waikiki waterfront, the seven-year-old Modern was a dream come true for those young urbanites who never quite felt at home in the more traditional Hawaiian resorts. It’s not directly on the beach—the closest is the lagoon and expansive beach in front of the Hilton Hawaiian Village, a quick walk on the hotel’s ramp—and instead overlooks the picturesque Ala Wai Boat Harbor, where many of the island’s boating excursions depart. Designed by George Yabu and Glenn Pushelberg, celebrities in the world of fashionable hotels, the look is warmly modern, all whites and creams and luxurious wood, and some striking art pieces, including a large surfboard installation in the lobby (titled “Wreck-tangles”). There’s a fun nightclub and some seriously good restaurants, though the real scene is out on the Instagram-worthy two-tiered teak pool deck, lined with lots of cushy chaises and shady corners to curl up. Upstairs is the adults-only pool—less a pool than a shallow water prop for frequent DJ-hosted dance parties. But for as much as the Modern is a hipster haven, the service is surprisingly good at making sure guests never feel like they’re crashing someone else’s party.
At first glance the small little market open on Thursday evenings at St. Clements Parish in the Makiki neighborhood of Honolulu does not seem like much to stop for. However, I often took friends there or pointed them in that directions for a dinner where trying local food and some old favorites is as easy as visiting a couple of the food stands. The variety of food is great with Thai food, Hawaiian fare, fish tacos, pies, crepes of all flavors, and fruits and veggies to round out a healthy meal. The people are friendly, tables are set up to enjoy your food there or you can take it home for later. Either way, the Makiki market is an great option to easily grab dinner on a Thursday evening. Open Thursdays 4:30-7:30pm
A little peckish for lunch, I dropped in at Splashers on a recommendation from a street artist on Alii Drive. Though I was on my own, I quickly felt embraced by the local aloha and friendly atmosphere of the restaurant. I people watched - a group of overdressed business people from the mainland meeting clients in Kailua-Kona sat to my left, a family of four sat several tables in front of me, and a few couples were seated along the railing of the open air grill for prime views of the shops below and the ocean beyond Alii Drive. Blue water cups reminded me of a diner while the open air atmosphere reminded me I was in the tropics. The food (I ordered fish tacos) was filling and flavorful, the bar was preparing for a busy afternoon and evening of cocktails and beers, and staff were fluttering about tending to their late lunch crowd. Sitting on top of the Kona Farm Direct cafe, you will definitely want to grab a coffee after lunch to keep you going the rest of the afternoon.
Every evening on the North Shore of Kauai, diners pack Bar Acuda for Mediterranean-inspired tapas that highlight local products. “The key is taking the finest ingredients and not doing much with them,” says chef Jim Moffat. He frequently changes his seasonal menu and sources such produce as citrus, avocados, fennel, and herbs from his home garden and the Hanalei Elementary School Garden, a program for local students that he helps run. Moffat often shops at farmers’ markets, but locals know they can also sell their fruits and vegetables at Bar Acuda’s back door. One firefighter even drives his 30-foot ladder truck to drop off cases of tangelos. “If you have a vacation rental and there’s something ripe, bring it to me,” says Moffat, who promises a gift certificate in exchange. His food philosophy creates a dining experience that’s greater than the sum of its dishes. “It’s about the lifestyle more than anything.” This appeared in the May 2015 issue.
Craft cocktails and modern Asian cuisine reign at this hip noodle bar in Honolulu‘s Chinatown. Dig into a bowl of ramen, garnished with sesame seeds, green onion, ginger, a soft egg, and wakame (dried seaweed). From there, things get lively with additions like oxtail won tons and togarashi shrimp with housemade kimchi. Other standouts include lamb lumpia and pork belly bao (buns). Adventurous eaters should try the uni gnocchi—made with creamy urchin gonads—enhanced by leeks, tomatoes, and butter cream sauce. A popular late-night stop, Lucky Belly serves its full menu until 12 a.m. every night except Sunday. Its takeout window serves specials—announced via @_dawindow on Instagram—until 2 a.m., Thursday to Saturday.
This airy, oceanfront restaurant can get crowded, so expect a wait whenever you go. It’s worth it, however, for the stellar menu of Hawaiian seafood dishes, plus the tropical cocktails. Pair a ginger mojito or strawberry piña colada with pupus (appetizers) like macadamia-crusted calamari and soy-ginger ahi poke, topped with local Surfing Goat Dairy cheese. Then move on to entrées like citrus-herb grilled fish tacos or the coconut-crusted catch of the day. If you’re not one for seafood, there are also excellent burgers and a teriyaki sirloin on the menu.
The Hyatt brand is world renowned for its service and experience. Their Maui property checks all the boxes for creating the perfect island vacation. From the beautifully executed integration into the ocean environment, to the services and activities at your flip flopped feet, life’s stresses give way to island time the moment you arrive. Close enough to Lahaina town to skip a car rental, yet buffered from the distractions of the world, it’s a great balance in one location. The onsite restaurants are top notch, easily keeping your calorie intake therapeutic. The bars offer a wonderful mix of island cocktails to melt away any residual tension from your stand up paddle board lesson. The little bay on the south end of the resort is home to a healthy group of huge sea turtles, easy to paddle up to in a kayak or board. Walking everywhere is easy and entertaining. Whaler’s Village is just a mile up the beach on a paved path the takes you through some of the other resorts in the neighborhood. Rooms are crisp, spacious and have some ocean views. The resort is medium-sized so you don’t feel overwhelmed by the physical plant. Speaking of plants, there are hundreds of native flora dotting the grounds. Also wondering about are flocks of flamingos and penguins. The Hyatt is a first-class operation leaving you free to relax to your heart’s content.
The resort Montage Kapalua Bay, perched on an ocean-facing cliff on the island’s northwestern shore, impresses right from the start. The experience begins at the entrance, where tranquil koi ponds set the tone for an impressive array of pools and waterfalls at the center of the 24-acre property. From there, 56 palatial, residence-style villas encourage hunkering down—each is equipped with a kitchen with marble countertops and wine refrigerators; deep-soaking tubs and walk-in showers; and washers and dryers—but do venture out. The concierge can arrange for everything from fishing charters to ziplining. Should you prefer a quieter pursuit, the spa offers a range of tranquil services, including a restorative seaweed cocoon treatment performed in an outdoor pavilion.
When it comes to traditional “made in Hawaii” dishes, cheese probably doesn’t come to mind. You might think of pineapples and macadamia nuts, which, as it happens, are also being enjoyed by the cows at Naked Cow Dairy, Oahu’s only dairy farm. Antibiotic- and hormone-free, Naked Cow makes a variety of butters (try the toasted coconut), yogurts, and hard and soft cheeses. The products are available at several farmers’ markets and restaurants, but for a real treat, visit the farm for a tour. Located on the leeward coast about an hour from Honolulu, tours range from basic butter tastings to hands-on cheesemaking classes.
Cocktails in Hawaii are likely to evoke tiny umbrellas, wedges of pineapple, and unnatural-colored liquid. Honolulu bar Pint + Jigger takes a different tack, mixing up cocktails like the Smoking Gun margarita, with smoked macadamia nut simple syrup and aged tequila. They also have an extensive whiskey list, nearly two dozen beers on tap, and another 40 in bottle, representing both local microbrews and globally known favorites. The gastropub menu is also a standout, serving many bar food classics like burgers and fish-and-chips made in-house, with suggested cocktail and beer pairings.