Tokyo

Riding high after its successful bid to host the 2020 Olympics, the capital city formerly known as Edo is a sprawling megalopolis characterized by a blend of ancient tradition and modern luxury. Greater Tokyo boasts a resume like that of an anime superhero—it has the largest urban population on Earth, an ultra-efficient public transportation system, more Michelin-starred restaurants than Paris and New York combined, a high level of public safety, and four distinct seasons in which to enjoy it all. Combine this with zany, only-in-Japan attractions and entertainment, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for what is arguably the globe’s greatest city.

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Photo Courtesy of Landon Nordeman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Tokyo?

Tokyo has four discrete seasons, with temperatures ranging from around freezing at night during the peak of winter to the high 90s in the height of summer. While it rarely snows in the capital, the humidity during January and February can make it feel colder than the reading on the thermometer. And the city’s asphalt and concrete retain considerable heat during the summer. Japan’s “plum rain” season falls in early summer—tsuyu, as it is called in Japanese, is characterized by a light drizzle reminiscent of Seattle or London. September sees the advent of typhoons originating in the more southerly Pacific. These occasionally strike the capital, bringing high winds and downpours. Spring and particularly autumn are absolutely beautiful, with relatively low humidity. Cherry blossoms bloom in March and April, and brilliant fall colors characterize November. May is also a great time to visit, as daytime temperatures average 73 degrees with low humidity and mostly sunny days. Japan’s busiest and most expensive travel seasons fall during Golden Week (the last week in April and first week of May) and New Year’s. During these times Tokyo tends to empty out, as many residents return to their hometowns in the countryside.

How to get around Tokyo

Tokyo is serviced by two international airports, Narita International and Haneda. Narita is the larger of the two, sitting about 36 miles from the center of Tokyo in neighboring Chiba Prefecture. From here, downtown is accessible via a variety of trains and buses (or a very expensive taxi ride). Haneda, Japan’s largest domestic airport, is located in Tokyo proper adjacent to Tokyo Bay, and its relatively small size and location mean greater convenience but fewer flights and higher fares.

Tokyo enjoys one of the world’s largest public transportation systems. The city is crisscrossed by municipal and private rail, subways, buses, and taxis, meaning that pretty much any location can be reached with ease. Trains are amazingly efficient and punctual, and station signs are in English. Bus route maps, though, tend to be in Japanese only. Likewise, most taxi drivers speak limited, if any, English, so when you go out for a night on the town, bring a card from your hotel’s front desk or concierge with the name and address on it—to avoid anything getting lost in translation on the return trip!

Can’t miss things to do in Tokyo

A favorite activity on a summer or fall weekend is hopping aboard one of the water ferries that travel between Asakusa, Hamamatsucho, and Odaiba. It’s a great way to see the east side of the city while enjoying a refreshing craft beer in the process!

Food and drink to try in Tokyo

The Big Mikan is rightfully known as the culinary capital of the world and is a foodie’s paradise. It offers a bewildering number and variety of both Japanese regional and international cuisines. Meals range in price from a couple hundred yen to amounts that may require you to take out a bank loan. Tokyo has an impressive 230 Michelin-starred restaurants, but the city’s dining scene goes far beyond those stars. There are a mind-boggling 80,000 restaurants where one can enjoy everything from ramen to the world’s best French (yes, you read that right—the three-star Quintessence, located in the Shirokanedai neighborhood of Tokyo, is the reigning champ). The drink scene in New Edo is no slouch, either—bars and clubs are stacked atop one another in the more densely packed areas of the city. While many are straight-up run-of-the mill drinking establishments, some revolve around themes, running the gamut from maid’s cafes in Akihabara—where the waitresses dress up in French maid outfits—to decor modeled after a Gothic church, for starters. If you want to skip the atmosphere and jump straight into your cups, you can buy beer and liquor 24-7 from the ubiquitous convenience stores, and if you can’t be bothered to walk that far you can just buy your bounty from vending machines on the street—there are no open-container laws in Japan.

Culture in Tokyo

Tokyo offers not only a plethora of festivals, but also many museums and places to explore traditional handicrafts and customs. Certain neighborhoods are identified with aspects of Japanese and Tokyoite culture: Asakusa is known as the temple district, Shibuya as the go-to hangout for the young generation, and Shimokitazawa as the hotbed of the indie music scene. For a one-stop encapsulation of Tokyo’s history and Japanese culture, check out the Edo Tokyo Museum in Ryogoku, located next to the Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumo Hall); this massive structure looks like an alien battleship and houses scale models of Edo-period (1603-1868) architecture and dioramas of daily life. It also features traditional Japanese dance performances.

For an experience that falls somewhere between a cultural excursion and a food outing, a trip to the Tsujiki Market is recommended. The three-hour walking tour organized by AFAR’s travel partner Context leads visitors deep into the market, where fresh produce, meat, and fish is sold alongside kitchenwares. Taste the freshest sushi, and sampling pickles, preserves, and dumplings and emerge with a deeper understanding of Japanese foodways and culture.

Festivals (known as matsuri) are abundant in Tokyo. Celebrations commemorate historic events and honor Shinto gods with massive fireworks displays and jubilees. Two of the largest festivals are the Sanja Matsuri, held at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa in mid-May to commemorate the three founders of the temple, and the Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival, held on the last Saturday of July over the Sumida River.

Local travel tips for Tokyo

  • While ATMs abound throughout Tokyo, you may have trouble getting cash from a Japanese bank. Instead go to one of the several Citibank branches in town or to any 7-Eleven, and you should have no problem withdrawing yen pegged close to that day’s interbank rate.
  • While earthquakes are common throughout Japan, they can be particularly jarring in Tokyo because of the high-rise buildings, which will amplify the shaking if you happen to be in one at the time. Don’t panic, though, as this is normal—Tokyo’s modern skyscrapers are designed to dissipate the earthquake’s energy by swaying in an exaggerated fashion. The trick is to remain calm and follow the locals’ lead—they’re old hands at this and generally know best.

Practical Information

Tokyo’s most-spoken language is Japanese. As for powering up your laptop or plugging in your hair dryer, the electric outlets may look like they’ll accommodate your American power cords but the voltage is 100 instead of North America’s 120 so they won’t always work. Bring adapters.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
Forever immortalized by Sofia Coppola’s indie sensation starring Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson, one of Japan’s most famous hotels is ready for its next chapter.
Several new design-forward hotels offer a less-expensive, more-immersive way to visit Japan’s capital city.
Janu Tokyo has finally opened its doors, launching the playful, wellness-focused, and slightly more affordable new luxury lifestyle brand from Aman Resorts.
There’s no shortage of amazing stays in Japan’s capital—and these 15 hotels are the city’s best.
With its hushed atmosphere and cultural experiences, Hoshinoya Tokyo is a true urban resort.
Capsule hotels—enclosed spaces with only a bed—are ubiquitous in Japan but still rare elsewhere. A new micro-hotel at Dulles Airport aims to change that.
The next trend in lodging? The B&B&B (bed and breakfast and bicycle). Here are our picks for where to try it first.
The refurbished Do-C hotel features traditional Japanese sleeping pods and saunas imported from Finland.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
While most shojin ryori (Buddhist cuisine) meals are very simple, Daigo elevates such cooking to the level of kaiseki ryori, the multi-course haute cuisine that was long favored in aristocratic circles. Diners are introduced to an impressive array of vegetables prepared in classic renditions: tempura mushrooms, vegetable sushi, deep-fried eggplant with grated daikon dressing. The traditional setting includes tatami mats and low tables, with a sunken area under the table for comfortable seating. Note that some bonito is used, so if you are strictly vegetarian, let the restaurant know when you make your reservation and the kitchen will accommodate you.
Tsukishima is a neighborhood best known for one of Tokyo’s local dishes, monjayaki. This casual dish is similar to Osaka’s savory okonomiyaki pancake but with much more liquid, making it great fun to cook. Diners are seated around a hot iron grill and prepare their own monjayaki after the staff help you with your first one. An ice-cold beer hits the spot as the table heats up. There are a variety of flavors, like seafood, pork, or house styles. A popular combination is mochi, mentaiko (spicy roe), and cheese. At night the main street is open only to pedestrians and is an interesting area to wander and explore.
While it might come as a surprise, Tokyo is known for its Neapolitan pizza. One of the great pizza makers in the city is Hisanori Yamamoto, whose restaurant is a short walk from Nakameguro Station. The tables are squeezed next to each other, but everyone is happy to dig into the pizzas that emerge perfectly blistered from the wood-burning oven. If the weather is good, there’s alfresco dining. The menu is unlike most Neapolitan pizzerias, which only offer a few options; here you’ll find about three dozen. Order some wine and start off with antipasti and fritti, and the pizza will have you feeling like you’ve taken a detour to Naples on your trip to Japan.
Formerly Omotesando Koffee, Koffee Mameya showcases single-bean coffee from around the world. The standing-only shop is not conducive to lingering, but service is welcoming. The knowledgeable staff in pigeon-blue lab coats will help select a coffee based on your personal preferences and will make a pour-over with precision. Whole beans in simple packaging line the back wall. The shop is near Omotesando and just behind the restaurant Maisen, so stop by for a coffee after your tonkatsu, the traditional breaded cutlet dish that is the restaurant’s specialty. Note: As with many coffee shops in the metropolis, Koffee Mameya does not open until 10 a.m.
For some travelers, what comes to mind first when they think of Japan is tales of samurai and shoguns, centuries-old temples, and the tea ceremony and kabuki. For others, however, what makes the country most exciting is its contemporary art, fashion, and architecture. The National Art Center should be at the top of the list for anyone with an affinity for the latter. Designed by one of Japan‘s most interesting contemporary architects, Kisho Kurokawa, it is among the country’s largest exhibition spaces. There’s no permanent collection, but temporary exhibitions cover a variety of mediums and topics—photography, manga and anime, architecture, and fashion, among others. The exhibitions aren’t always limited to works by Japanese creators, with international museums lending pieces as well. If you are looking for gifts to take back home, the Souvenir from Tokyo shop in the basement has a delightful selection of Japanese products, both whimsical and elegant.
Fuglen is on a quiet side street a short walk from Shibuya Station, near Yoyogi Park. The interior of this hip coffee shop cum cocktail bar feels like a summer cabin in northern Minnesota, with wood paneling and Scandinavian pieces on display—which is not all that surprising given that it’s a branch of an Oslo shop. The coffee is a light-roast with bright flavors and a clean finish. There’s a variety of seating, both indoors and outdoors, for both groups and solo visitors. At night the menu includes cocktails as well as coffee.
Sakurai Tea is a unique tea counter that offers a selection of Japanese tea and Japanese tea–infused spirits. Customers select a seasonal sweet, presented like jewelry in a wooden box, to pair with the tea. Smoky notes fill the air as hojicha tea is roasted after it is ordered. Gyokuro, a high-end green tea, is unlike any other, a savory elixir steeped at a low temperature. After drinking the gyokuro, the leaves are seasoned with a citrusy soy ponzu, for eating. Owner Shinya Sakurai, a former bartender, has the unique training to combine tea and spirits for Japanese tea cocktails.
One of Japan‘s most talented chefs, Yoshihiro Narisawa presents Japanese ingredients in a style he calls “innovative Satoyama cuisine,” which highlights the country’s natural bounty. Narisawa works directly with purveyors to get the freshest seafood and produce. Bread is cooked on the table, there is soup made from soil (yes, literally dirt, along with burdock roots), and a forest-inspired dish that has a live audio feed from a forest in Japan. The exquisite meal is not gimmicky and involves a dizzying array of ingredients, and the wine-pairing option includes some very interesting, untraditional sakes, a great education in the spirit. Knowledgeable staff explain the provenance of each dish—it’s like an edible tour through Japan.
The Old Imperial Bar is an old-school Tokyo bar favored by some of Japan’s political and financial elite, who come for its demure and consistent service. The popular bar snack kaki pi—spicy rice crackers and peanuts—originated here and is still being served. Soak in the nods to Frank Lloyd Wright, who designed the original hotel: the Hopi-inspired carpet design, the terra-cotta grillwork, and the polychrome and gold-leaf fresco on the wall in the back of the room. Classic cocktails reign, such as a gin and tonic made with the Kyoto-distilled gin Ki no Bi, with notes of yuzu, green tea, and ginger.
What’s the secret to a genuinely friendly welcome? In Japan, a dedication to group harmony and an appreciation for the transience of the moment.