Although food probably isn’t the main reason to visit Iceland, things have certainly improved since tourism kicked off in the late 1980s. Reykjavik has a cosmopolitan selection of restaurants, from high-end steak and fish houses to lots of mid-range and budget world cuisines. Outside the capital, the choices begin to diminish somewhat. There are generally lamb and fish dishes (plenty of salmon and trout) in restaurants throughout the country, though, and every town seems to have a diner hawking burgers, fries, and the ubiquitous pylsur—a local take on the humble hot dog. For a traditional treat, try harðifiskur (dried haddock or cod), which can be eaten with or without butter; hákarl (putrefied shark that’s buried below ground for several months to break down the toxins); or súrsaðir hrútspungar (pickled rams’ testicles), if you’re feeling really brave. Iceland’s own brand of yogurt, Skyr, is delicious and deservedly popular. Booze is pricey, and sometimes just finding one of the state-owned off-licenses can be tricky. A good local tipple to try, though, is Brennivín. Distilled from potatoes and flavored with caraway seeds, it’s potent enough to have earned the ominous nickname “black death.”