Hawai‘i

More than 2,000 miles from the nearest continent (North America), Hawai‘i has always lured travelers seeking paradise in the Pacific. Polynesian explorers first paddled into the islands between 300 and 500 CE. Following centuries of civilization, the Hawai‘ians first met Europeans in 1778—sparking a story whose ultimate end was American statehood in 1959. Tourism is now the state’s largest industry, and most travelers are familiar with stock photos of hula, leis, and surfboards. But as with most idylls, there’s much more to discover beyond the pages of glossy brochures.

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Photo by Kyle Johnson

Overview

Beaches

Eight major islands comprise the Hawai‘ian archipelago, meaning there’s coastline in abundance and a beach for everyone. Adventurers skirt the edges of Kaua‘i’s Napali Coast by kayak. Sun worshipers lounge around lazy Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu and on Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, where the sun feels so close it’s hard to believe you’re at sea level. Beaches like Punaluu Beach on the Big Island—with its black sand—and the Red Sand Beach on Maui reward day-trippers with their psychedelic scenery. Meanwhile, the gravity-defying waves of the Banzai Pipeline hurl themselves against O‘ahu’s North Shore in winter, and the churning surf of nearby Waimea Bay seems like it can’t be made of the same gentle stuff that kisses the coast off Lāna‘i.

Away from the Beach

Rings of coastline protect each island’s heart, and it’s well worth leaving the beach to explore inland. On the Big Island, travelers dip into the Waipio Valley—scooped out of the island’s north side—or summit the Mauna Kea volcano at twilight to touch the stars above. On Oʻahu, hikers scale the Koko Head Crater or follow trails of rainbows dancing above the lush Manoa Valley. No matter where they are based, visitors seeking to learn more about the archipelago have options for various guided tours. Paniolo Adventures, for example, guides horseback rides that offer views of the coastline, volcanoes, and ancient historical sites.

When’s the best time to go to Hawai‘i?

With great weather throughout the year, there’s no bad time to visit Hawaiʻi. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the islands.

Food and drink to try in Hawai‘i

The bounty of land and sea is evident in Hawaiʻi’s cuisine, which shows South Pacific, Asian, and even Portuguese influences. Roy’s, a popular restaurant located on three islands, serves blackened ahi and macadamia nut-crusted opah, while Yama’s Fish Market in Honolulu presents numerous appetizers and simple staples like beef stew. Humble roadside stands serve lau lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf) or poke (seafood tartare). Hawaiʻian hospitality has been exported in a glass via the mai tai and lava flow cocktails. For something sweet, try a deep-fried malasada doughnut from Leonard’s Bakery in Honolulu, a chocolate haupia cream pie from Ted’s Bakery on Sunset Beach, or a syrupy shave ice from the famous Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa.

Culture in Hawai‘i

Hawaiʻi was colonized by Polynesians and has long drawn visitors from Asia, Oceania, and North America. The ‘Iolani Palace—where Hawaiʻi’s last royal family lived and ruled—should be the first stop for anyone interested in the islands’ heritage. Across the street, the historic Ali’iolani Hale building was featured on the TV series Hawaii Five-0. Also check out the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, where fascinating artifacts range from ancient weapons to the feathered cloak of King Kamehameha I. To this day, the islands’ varied influences are united by the uniquely Hawaiʻian spirit of aloha.

How to get around Hawai‘i

Most domestic and international arrivals land in Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air, and Mokulele Airlines operate inter-island flights. The islands are large enough to make a car rental worthwhile. If you plan to stay in one place, taxis and shuttles are easy to arrange.

Practical Information

Credit cards are not accepted everywhere, so travelers should carry some cash when shopping. A 15–20 percent tip is standard for restaurant bills, 15 percent for taxi fares, and $1–2 per bag handled at a hotel. Tips for tours start at $5 and increase based on tour length. Outlets are 110 volt.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Prepared on Norio’s signature cedar plank, Norio’s Crispy Salmon, Kulana Farms 31 Day Dry Rib Eye, or sustainably caught Hawaiian Ahi will tantalize your tastebuds and leave you craving more. You can eat at a sushi bar or at tables in the comfortable dining room located within the Fairmont Orchid Resort. Open for dinner only (6 to 9 p.m.); reservations are recommended.
To experience a peaceful and private Hawaiian morning, enjoy room service in the quiet of your own with a view of the Pacific Ocean. Listen to the waves roll on shore while enjoying pancakes and tropical fruit at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows where you will feel like a Hawaiian King or Queen.
Only kahuna (priests) and alii nui (chiefs) were eligible to visit the Heiau (temples) at Puukohola. The site was dedicated in 1791 before the kapu (taboo) system that included human sacrifice was dissolved in 1819. Now a National Historic Site, visitors can find stone monuments at the site where Hawaii’s sometimes violent history played out. The temples were destroyed in 1819 with the end of the organized worship of the Hawaiian gods and only platforms remain. The surrounding area was used for farming and settlements.
An excellent way to enjoy a long trip around the Big Island is to poke around in Mother’s Antiques & Fine Cigars in Hawi (located near Kapaau). Items from eras gone by populate this store along with a fine collection of cigars. This shop enables visitors to dream of old times when men sat in rocking chairs on a veranda and slowly smoked cigars while sporadically talking about the day’s events. Stop in for a feel of local island lore and to seek out a treasure all your own.
For travelers who visit Hawaii and want a quiet, tucked-away vacation from the rest of the world, Hilo is a fantastic town to find a condo for rent and sunrises from the local beaches or to enjoy quiet evenings staying in. While no one needs to get lost in a book when there are so many beautiful things to enjoy on the Island of Hawaii, Hilo Bay Books compliments a tucked-away, quiet, beachy lifestyle perfectly by selling secondhand books (their motto is “get used!”) to help you unwind and enjoy the time away from home.
The site of the historic church Hale Halawaio Holualoa has likely been used for ages. Old konane (a game) boards have been excavated from the area along with canoe landings and a grave site. The current building, erected in 1855, was made from stone and coral lime. The building still holds Sunday services, though this congregations now calls themselves Living Stones Church.
Peace, relaxation, beauty, and a tasty menu—the Beach Tree Bar is a fabulous place to watch the sun close out the day past the Pacific Ocean. With swaying palm trees and a large tree right on the beach, the casual lounge is perfect for pupus (appetizers) and a cocktail to celebrate sundown. Located at the Four Seasons Hualalai Resort, the bar sits on a pretty stretch of sand on the Kohala Coastline. Flavors are fresh, creative, and from the Island when possible.
Seeing the Big Island by air will have you sitting on the edge your seat anticipating what will turn up around the next mountain or valley. Waipio Valley, one of the most beautiful areas on the Island, is best seen from the air to really get a perspective of the area’s vast beauty. If staying on the ground is more your style, hit the trail and do some hiking through the Waipio area or make your way to the ocean and enjoy the sound of the surf.
Is it is possible to be romanced by a property or courted by a restaurant? My luxurious and beautiful dining experience at the Fairmont Orchid Resort’s Brown’s Beach House Restaurant had me hooked as soon as I arrived on the resort property just after sunset. Immersed in aloha, and comfortably seated on the restaurant’s outdoor patio, a solo voice and the sound of ukulele danced through the air in concert with the tropical ambiance. Sustainably grown and locally sourced foods are exquisitely prepared to please the palate, and an air of romance is enhanced with the lull of the surf rolling into the sand, only steps away. For a truly memorable experience, private dining is available on a knoll under swaying palm trees. Reservations recommended.
South Point on the Big Island is the most southern point in the United States. The cliffs were ancient mooring places for canoes belonging to the first settlers on the Big Island. Fishermen still use this place to cast their lines, and adventurous locals dive into the turbulent but clear waters below (not recommended for tourists who are not aware of ocean currents, as the undertow is usually quite strong and has swept many lives away in the turquoise clear waters). Several miles up the beach (toward the Hilo side of the Island) is the Green Sand Beach colored by olivine that formed as part of the volcanic eruptions long ago. It is worth hiking to (or paying for a local to drive you in their 4x4). Green Sand Beach is one of only four green beaches in the world.