San Francisco

San Francisco is a diverse city that often finds itself on the edge of social and technological change. The small city has long been a haven for marginalized groups, but it is also a place that is grappling with its identity in the throes of a tech boom. To really know San Francisco, you must explore its neighborhoods. Look for taquerias and techies in the Mission, rainbow flags flying above the Castro, earnest hippie vibes in the Haight, and beachy quietude in the Sunset. Visitors will find the city welcoming and full of activities for nature lovers, bookworms, shoppers, foodies, cultural mavens, and more.

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Photo by Rosangela Perry/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to San Francisco?

San Francisco is renowned for its cold, foggy summers. However, when September and October come around, the character lovingly known as Karl the Fog recedes, and temperatures can climb into the low 80s on the hottest days. Late winter can see some rain, but rarely much. Overall, the unique geography of this peninsula, bound as it is by the Bay and the Pacific, creates pockets of both warm and cool weather all year long. Dress in layers, and be prepared to encounter a range of temperatures as you make your way around the city.

How to get around San Francisco

San Francisco Airport is about 25 minutes from downtown by taxi, which will cost you about $45. The quickest option is to catch an Uber or Lyft. The major public transportation system, Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART), goes directly from the airport to downtown and across the bridge to the East Bay.

To get around, BART, Muni trains, buses, cable cars, and trams traverse the city. Rideshare services like Uber and Lyft are readily available. It’s also fairly easy to rent bicycles through Lyft.

Can’t miss things to do in San Francisco

The far northwestern corner of the city, called Land’s End, is where the San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean meet. The view of the Golden Gate Bridge and the Marin Headlands is spectacular here, and active visitors will find it an ideal spot for hiking and trail biking. When you’re done taking in the panoramic vista, take in some timeless works of art at the nearby Legion of Honor.

Read: The 26 Best Things to Do in San Francisco, According to a Local

Food and drink to try in San Francisco

San Francisco is a hotbed for the locavore movement, and destinations like the San Francisco Ferry Building—with farmers’ markets on Saturdays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays—offer a glimpse at the culinary bounty that grows in the nearby Central Valley of California. Look for fresh, ingredient-driven cuisine at innovative new restaurants (splurge at Saison), iconic standbys (splurge a little less at Zuni), and a vast array of affordable ethnic restaurants. Take your pick from Mexican, Shanghai, Uighur, Hunan, Salvadoran, Ethiopian, Korean, and many more.

Culture in San Francisco

San Francisco is a great museum city, anchored by three landmark buildings. The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), de Young Museum, and The Legion of Honor, part of the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. Travelers will also find a burgeoning gallery scene and street art scene throughout the city. The Bay Area’s legacy as the home of Beat poets, funk artists, and jazz innovators lends additional cultural variety to the mix.

Summer music festivals like Outsidelands and Stern Grove’s weekly concerts provide plenty of entertainment, and June’s Pride Festival is a month-long celebration of equality. On the first Sunday of each month, flea market aficionados should look for the Alameda Point Antiques Faire, a huge market on an old navy base in the nearby East Bay.

Local travel tips for San Francisco

Always pack a jacket. This may be California, but don’t expect to be wearing your flip flops. Summer is all about the fog, although the sun does break through—especially in neighborhoods on the eastern side of the city, such as Noe Valley and the Mission.

Depending on where you’re staying, a car probably won’t be necessary, as public transportation, cabs, and various rideshares will be at your service. However, car rentals are plentiful if you do want to get out of town—traditional rental companies as well as peer-to-peer car sharing services like Getaround, Zipcar, and City CarShare.

If you have time, it’s absolutely worth your while to make a day-trip from the city to see the gorgeous coast and wine country north of the Golden Gate Bridge.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These are the top luxury hotels to book in the Golden State, where experiences range from world-class culinary destinations and beachfront retreats to storied city hideaways.
From lobby bars to rooftop lounges, these are the hotel bars Afar editors love checking out when they’re checking in.
These places to stay are as varied and wonderful as the city itself.
These hotels are bringing a fresh vibe to six U.S. cities.
San Francisco’s Lodge at the Presidio will open its historic charm and bay views to guests this summer.
Whether it’s a staycation or a trip to a far destination, these hotels have activities to keep you (and your kids or travel buddies) busy during the winter season.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Burma Superstar lives up to its name. Opened more than 20 years ago, the Inner Richmond restaurant has gained a following for such specialties as hand-wrapped samosas filled with meat and potatoes, chili lamb, and traditional rice salad. Known for its curries and use of spices, Burmese cuisine combines the flavors of India, Laos, China, and Thailand. All these influences come together seamlessly on Burma Superstar’s wide-ranging menu, which features home-style dishes prepared with traditional recipes. The restaurant also has locations in Oakland and Alameda. Reservations aren’t accepted.
This popular Mexican-food mainstay in the heart of San Francisco‘s Mission District is one of two places in the city that claim to have invented the Mission-style burrito (the other is El Faro): a hefty, elephant-leg-size wrap distinguished from other burritos by its size and the inclusion of rice and other ingredients. The restaurant was first opened as a meat market in 1967 by Mexican immigrants Raul and Michaela Duran, who are said to have served their first burrito in 1969 after noticing that local workers needed a substantial yet portable meal. The Mission Burrito was born, containing most of the food groups: protein, vegetables, dairy, and grains. The Durans converted their meat market into a full-time restaurant in 1972. Taqueria la Cumbre offers a full menu of Mexican food, all made fresh. The burritos are made assembly-line style. (Fun fact: When the Durans first came to San Francisco, they hired a high school kid to make flour tortillas before school. The kid, Jorge Santana, would go on to be a popular musician, like his brother Carlos.)
Few restaurants more than 150 years old can be called trendy, but in innovation-crazy San Francisco, there is novelty in the classics, and Tadich Grill is the classic. The late Chronicle columnist and unabashed San Francisco-lover Herb Caen was also a frequent visitor. There’s a martini named after him, made with vodka, or as he called it, Vitamin V. The serious nature of the restaurant’s wood paneling, brass fixtures, and waiters in starched white aprons is matched by the food. No need to tinker with classic recipes for fried sand dabs or crab Louie, and the oysters and Hangtown fry are fine the way they have always been. The cioppino is by far the most popular dish on the menu, with about 27,000 bowls dished out a year. People come to Tadich Grill because they know what they’re getting: friendly service, great seafood, and a taste of San Francisco itself.
If you’re looking for a quiet place to have a drink, don’t go to Zeitgeist. If you’re looking to have an early night, don’t go to Zeitgeist. If you’re looking for an incredibly wide selection of beers on tap, gruff but knowledgeable bartenders, good bar food, and an outdoor biergarten filled with picnic tables and young locals—then you should definitely go to Zeitgeist. The place can get pretty crowded, so be sure to follow proper protocol at the bar if you want to get served: order your beer by its corresponding number (it’s all clear on the menu) and remember that this place is cash only. Feeling hungry? Get the cheeseburger and home fries. Zeitgeist is open daily from 9 am to 2 am. .
The colorful murals in Balmy Alley are the lower Mission’s own version of the better-known Clarion Alley murals. Stroll through the small, pedestrian-friendly alleyway to see public work by local artists, a tradition that began in the mid-1980s in response to human rights and political abuses in Central America. Today, you can see murals depicting scenes from human rights abuse to local gentrification to natural disasters. Want to learn more? Take a tour with Precita Eyes Muralists.
If someone described the Lone Palm bar as something out of Miami Vice, they wouldn’t be entirely wrong—the neon signs, dim lighting, and white tablecloths in an otherwise casual, somewhat dive-y bar give off a certain Vice-esque vibe. Stop by the Lone Palm for a drink at the very beginning or the very end of your night—it fills up quickly. Attentive bartenders and oft-refilled bar snacks like Goldfish also make it a good spot for a post-work Happy Hour. Lone Palm is open every day from 4 pm to 2 am.
Stop by Loló’s new and improved location on Valencia street for a colorful atmosphere, delicious mezcal cocktails, and a creative Jaliscan-Californian cuisine. Owned by a husband and wife restaurateur duo from Jalisco, the western Pacific district of Mexico, Loló is open for dinner and brunch, highlighting traditional Mexican flavors with fresh Californian ingredients. Order several of the smaller plates—try the panko avocado tacos or the huitlacoche and requeson, stuffed wonton ravioli—and share. Reservations available. Loló is open Mondays through Thursdays from 6 pm to midnight and Fridays through Sundays from 11:30 am to 5 pm and 6 pm to 1 am. Sunday brunch is available from 11 am to 4 pm.
Stop by Gravel & Gold in the Mission and you’ll find not only vintage goods from around the world, but also handmade and sustainably produced homeware, specialty food products, books, clothing, and jewelry made in and around San Francisco. Be sure to check out the shop’s made-and-designed-in-house line of clothing and bags, Gravel & Gold Goods; their “Boob Top” is a particular bestseller. Check their website for in-store events like homebrewing workshops, and stop by every Wednesday to pick up a share for nearby Eatwell Farm’s CSA. Gravel & Gold is open Monday to Saturday from noon to 7 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m.
If one is going to throw around the word “iconic,” let’s make sure it’s used appropriately. As with Zuni. The awkwardly shaped restaurant—it’s in a narrow storefront with wider spaces on the mezzanine—was opened in 1979 by Billy West. West’s best move was hiring chef Judy Rodgers in 1987. She put in a brick oven—and thus the Zuni roast chicken was born. This dish, more than any other (except perhaps the Caesar salad), defines Zuni. The chicken is roasted in the brick oven and served over a bread salad: greens with chewy bread croutons. Simple, perfectly cooked, and seasonal. Rodgers died in 2013, but the restaurant soldiers on without her. The menu changes with the season and with what the local farms are growing, and will doubtless explain the provenance of your meat. Rodgers, along with her peer across the bay, Alice Waters, pioneered California cooking, and the cooks who have passed through here have gone on to define today’s vibrant restaurant scene.
If walls could talk, you’d be stuck in conversation with the Fillmore for hours. The building was a dance hall when it opened in 1912 and a roller rink during the 1940s, and led its first concerts in 1952 with artists like James Brown and Ike & Tina Turner. But in the mid-1960s, the venue really had its moment. Concert promoter Bill Graham made the ballroom a hub for psychedelic music and brought would-be legends like the Grateful Dead, Big Brother and the Holding Company, Jefferson Airplane, and Santana to the stage. Needless to say, there’s history here. Learn it best by attending a show. The standing-room-only ballroom still brings in big-name artists—think Lorde and the 1975—at budget-friendly prices, along with a constant stream of smaller acts. There’s a full-service restaurant and a bar, and the vibrant collections of old photos, artwork, newspaper clippings, posters, and billings will school you on the club’s colorful past.