A Week in and Around Milan
Collected by Max Garrone
The traditional seat of business and fashion in Italy, Milan is the place other Italians love to hate—which means that it obviously has much to love. On the obvious side of the scales you’ll find Leonardo’s “Last Supper” and an outrageously beautiful cathedral, less so are the art and dining scenes which become more complex by the day. Ranging further afield, travelers will discover day trips to great wine regions, incredible contemporary art collections, and Lake Como (and George Clooney).
Via Fatebenefratelli, 16, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
A. Caraceni is often described as the very best in Milan when it comes to tailors. At this shop, you'll only find high-quality suits, impeccable cuts, and polished styles. The Caraceni tailoring legacy goes back more than a century, when the...
Milan, Metropolitan City of Milan, Italy
Style and design filter into day-to-day life in Milan, but Women’s Fashion Week (September 19–25) is the height of the city’s creativity. The event, staged by fashion’s biggest labels, also spurs local restaurants and galleries to show off their...
Galleria del Corso, 4, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
For the last decade, Peck was the only place in town to stock up on the best of the best Italian foodstuffs. Now there’s a new gourmet go-to: a sprawling emporium in the basement level of the Excelsior department store. Choose from thousands of...
Via Brera, 28, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
The Pinacoteca Brera is Milan's public painting gallery with an enviable collection of early Renaissance to late Baroque paintings by the very best of 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. Though Bramante, Rubens, Raphael, Piero della Francesca and...
Piazza Pio XI, 2, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
The Ambrosiana Library is an oasis for book lovers. Founded in 1609, the library contains over 800,000 books and 35,000 manuscripts, including writings by Dante and Leonardo da Vinci's Codex Atlanticus. The pinacoteca art gallery is a treasure as...
Via Palestro, 16, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
GAM bridges the gap between Baroque and Modern art with a collection of Italian and European artwork from the 18th to the 20th century. Van Gogh, Manet, Cezanne and Gaugin hang with Balla, Boccioni, Canova and Segantini. Best to make it double...
Piazza del Duomo, 8, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
The Museo del Novecento (Museum of the 20th century) is a visual lesson in one century of Italian art history. Housed is the 1930s Palazzo dell'Arengario by Rationalist architects Piero Portaluppi and Giovanni Muzio. The Novecento also houses an...
Piazza Castello, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
The Sforza name is well known even to those of us not intimately familiar with Italian history. Originally built in the 15th century, this massive citadel was at one time one of the largest in Europe and even today you can just imagine the...
Piazza di Santa Maria delle Grazie, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Besides the fashion and the Duomo, another great reason to visit Milan is the famous Last Supper by Leonardo Da Vinci, located at the Santa Maria delle Grazie. It's better you reserve the tickets ahead of time since they only have limited time...
Corso Magenta, 15, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Sometimes called "Milan's Sistine Chapel" because of its profusely--and beautifully-- decorated walls and ceilings, San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore is well worth a visit. The Renaissance paintings commissioned by the Sforza family (the primary...
Via Giulio Cesare Procaccini, 4, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
Fabbrica del Vapore is an easygoing arts center in Milan, occupying an old steam factory: a place where many different exhibitions, performances, and casual social gatherings take place year-round. It is best to check the website for specific...
Via Antoine Watteau, 7, 20125 Milano MI, Italy
Leoncavallo is both a cultural center and a concept. The buildings lining the run-down road are covered in amazing art by epic artists and upcoming writers. During the day, you'll find photographers documenting the work or shooting for fashion...
Via Neera, 24, 20141 Milano MI, Italy
Artist Dan Flavin's last installation is the Church of Santa Maria Annuciata in Chiesa Rossa, fondly known as simply Chiesa Rossa. Flavin's light installation is a technicolor dream of electric hues across the main nave and central apse.
Via Giorgio Jan, 15, 20129 Milano MI, Italy
In the 1930s, architect Piero Portaluppi was the toast of the town, designing the most innovative and beautiful houses and buildings in Milan. Walking through Casa Boschi di Stefano, you find a great example of early twentieth century Italy, from...
Via Privata Cuccagna, 2, 20135 Milano MI, Italy
Country kitchen and slow food oasis in the middle of Milan. This is the place where you will want to have your Sunday, especially if the weather is good and you can get an outdoor table. Cuisine plays homage to Lombardy's best and favorites, using...
Via Savona, 50, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
An interesting place to have lunch with a friend, talking about work, reading a newspaper, or sipping very good wine. Chef Kokichi Takahashi elaborates on the Italian food culture. Taste fresh ravioli and oven-roasted cockerel or omori chocolate...
Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, 286, 20142 Milano MI, Italy
The café Erba Brusca sits on a plot of land at the city’s edge, where concrete blocks meet grassy meadows. Italian staples such as buttery white polenta and roasted speziata sausage are made with herbs and greens grown on-site. Reserve a table on...
Via dell'Orso, 4, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Il Refettorio Simplicitas is my favorite place to eat when I visit Milan. The executive chef, Giovanni Ruggieri, uses simple, fresh, and local ingredients to consistently turn out powerful flavors you never knew you always wanted to taste. Echoing...
Vicolo dei Lavandai, Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 14, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
A pleasant way to spend an evening in Milan is to stroll along the Naviglio Grande, a 12th century canal in the south of town. The warehouses along the towpath are now home to lively restaurants and bars. I recommend El Brellin. The second floor...
Via Ponte Vetero, 21, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Every city has an eatery that’s a mainstay for shoppers, and in Milan, it’s the tony Brera neighborhood restaurant Convivium. House specialties include complimentary rosemary flatbread, four-cheese pizza, and sea saltencrusted sea bass for two. ...
Piazza Tito Minniti, 20159 Milano MI, Italy
Isola is Milan's sleeper neighborhood because of its great location, hip shops and local vibe. It is also a great area to hang out in because, well, it feels like a neighborhood. Weekend street markets, clever graffiti, cute boutiques, artisanal...
Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 34, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
While few in number, Milan's canals can be charming. Naviglio Grande, the largest, is my favorite to walk along. Lined by shops, outdoor cafes and bars, there is life alongside the water anytime of day. If you're lucky you'll catch the Antique...
Via Alessandro Stradella, 4/A, 20129 Milano MI, Italy
This wine bar in the Buenos Aires neighborhood is a wonderful example of Italy's drinking culture—reasonably priced, carefully chosen, enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Here you can also take a bottle home for under 3, if you like what you tried in the...
Via Filodrammatici, 2, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
Designed by the great neoclassical architect Giuseppe Piermarini, the glorious interior is quite the opposite from its austere exterior. Acoustics are amazing, not only from the exemplary construction of the venue but also thanks to the perfect...
Piazzale Angelo Moratti, 20151 Milano MI, Italy
Welcome to the hallowed walls of AC Milan. San Siro is the first and quite possibly only stadium in Italy to have a museum on its premises. For die hard red and black fans, this is only place you'll want to come to when you visit Milan. You get to...
Via Paolo Sarpi, 30 angolo, Via Arnolfo di Cambio, 1A, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
Considered by some as a Milan institution, Cantine Isole is a small wine bar/enoteca with a lot of history and great atmosphere. It's located in the Chinatown neighborhood, near Garibaldi station and the Isola neighborhood. Expect a lot of...
Piazza Litta, 1, 21100 Varese VA, Italy
Don't let your eyes fool you. Villa Panza is a not just a gorgeous 18th-century estate. The villa and grounds host the spectacular Panza Collection, an amazing grouping of art from the 1960s through 1980s, with particular attention to American...
Via Adelchi, 5, 20131 Milano MI, Italy
Birrificio Lambrate is a well-kept secret in Milan, a city that generally prefers bitter cocktails to beer. The microbrewery opened its second gastropub just outside the city center last year. It’s already much loved for its free happy-hour...
Piazza del Duomo, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Designed by Giuseppe Mengoni in 1865, and named after the first king of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, an arching cast-iron dome of vaulted glass arcades covers the street connecting Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Scala. The Galleria is a popular...
Gandria, Lugano, Switzerland
Behold Gandria! When my Airbnb host first suggested I visit Gandria I was a little unsure, mostly because of it's name. But boy was she right, this little village navigable exclusively by foot was so picturesque and quiet. Situated on a hill just...
22021 Bellagio CO, Italy
Bergamo, Province of Bergamo, Italy
The old town of Bergamo is a one in a lifetime experience to the visitor as it lies idly on the side of the hill. The labyrinth of paved small streets will take you to gorgeous squares, well preserved historical buildings, secret corners and small...
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