Tennessee

Tennessee is awash in history—it was critical to the development of several genres of music, from country and jazz to blues and bluegrass; home to some of the most important battles of the Civil War; and the site of many major events in the struggle for civil rights. Nashville and Memphis are two of the most vibrant cities for live music in the country. Outdoor buffs can enjoy numerous hunting and fishing opportunities as well as several state and natural parks, including the most-visited national park in the country, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

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Photo by Bob Carr/NPS

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Tennessee?

As in many Southern states, summers in Tennessee are muggy, with high humidity and temperatures that can make being outdoors pretty intolerable. Winters are comparatively mild—except for in mountainous Eastern Tennessee—though they can also be quite wet. Fortunately, the shoulder seasons of spring and fall are glorious, with wildflowers blanketing the rolling hills of Middle Tennessee in May and brightly colored leaves painting the eastern forests come October.

How to get around Tennessee

Many major airlines service Tennessee’s four largest cities, Nashville (BNA), Memphis (MEM), Chattanooga (CHA), and Knoxville (TYS), though some flights require connections through other hubs like Atlanta, Dallas, and Charlotte. Once you’re on the ground, three major highways crisscross the state, with I-40 connecting Memphis, Nashville, and Knoxville; I-24 running between Nashville and Chattanooga; and I-65 bisecting the state north to south. These scenic freeways can get you anywhere in the state and offer views of the mountains in the east, the hills of Middle Tennessee, and the gradual flattening of the topography as you approach the Mississippi River on the western border.

Tennesseans love their cars, so urban cores can get crowded during rush hour and on-street parking can be hard to find. Consider, as the locals do, using a commercial garage. This dedication to personal vehicles also means that public transit options are lacking in the major cities, but rideshare services have become a popular alternative.

Food and drink to try in Tennessee

In Tennessee, the best food is based on home cooking. Restaurants like Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken in Mason and The Loveless Cafe outside of Nashville let southern staples like fried chicken and country ham shine in their humble roots, while spots like The Barn at Blackberry Farm in Walland and Husk in Nashville elevate folksy recipes into gourmet Appalachian cuisine. Each region of the state has specialty foods worth a pilgrimage, including Memphis-style dry ribs, the infernally spicy Nashville hot chicken, and even the unusual vinegar pie from the Tri-Cities in the northeast corner of Tennessee. While not as prolific as Kentucky bourbon, Tennessee whiskey also occupies an important spot in the hearts of many locals.

Culture in Tennessee

Tennessee is generally conservative, though liberal sentiments are more common in urban areas. Music brings everyone together, with major festivals across the state including the Beale Street Music Festival in Memphis, the CMA Fest in Nashville, the Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion, and Bonnaroo, a multi-genre music and camping festival in Manchester that’s one of the biggest gatherings of talent and fans in the nation every summer. Visual arts are also important, especially in the major cities of Memphis, Nashville, and Chattanooga, where you can find many worthwhile museums and public art installations.

Can’t miss things to do in Tennessee

Tennessee is known as the home of several important musical styles, with shrines to each one that are well worth visiting. Elvis Presley’s Memphis home, Graceland, is a mecca for fans of the King of Rock ’n’ Roll, while Nashville’s Ryman Auditorium, known as “The Mother Church of Country Music,” still hosts live performances on its fabled stage. In Bristol, the Birthplace of Country Music Museum opened in 2014 with exhibits detailing the legendary 1927 Bristol Sessions, during which recordings by icons like Jimmie Rodgers and the Carter Family introduced the music of Appalachia to the rest of the nation.

Practical Information

Visitors to Tennessee need to think about covering their skin with sunscreen during the summers, bug spray for the mosquitos that can get a little intense around sunset, and layers of clothing in the fall that can be peeled off as the days warm from chilly to quite pleasant. The state also stretches across two times zones, so be cognizant of that fact if you’re planning to drive from Nashville to East Tennessee.

Guide Editor

Chris Chamberlain is a food, drink, and travel writer based in his hometown of Nashville. One of the rare unicorns actually born in Music City, he has lived there his entire life except for four years in California, where he studied at Stanford and learned how to manipulate chopsticks. He is a regular contributor to Nashville Scene, StyleBlueprint, Sounds Like Nashville, The Local Palate, Thrillist, and Foodie Travel USA, and the author of The Southern Foodie, The Southern Foodie’s Guide to the Pig, and Nashville Beer: A Heady History of Music City Brewing.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Chef Julia Sullivan grew up in Music City before moving away to study at the Culinary Institute of America and work at restaurants like New York’s Per Se and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. When she returned home, she opened Henrietta Red with sommelier Allie Poindexter in the culinary hotbed of Germantown. The women bring a strong oyster game to landlocked Tennessee as well as options like wood-roasted pork sausage with broccoli rabe and rhubarb mostarda. Diners can take a seat at the long marble bar for natural wines and craft cocktails or settle into the dining room, where white walls and wood tables create a bright, homey feel.
Since opening in 2001, the Frist Art Museum has hosted an inspiring—and continuous—slate of exhibitions from both nearby and around the world in its Art Deco digs. Visit on a Thursday or Friday night to catch “Music at the Frist,” when a wide range of musicians perform live in the museum café. The shows are free to attend with the purchase of admission.
Across the Cumberland River from downtown, residential East Nashville got its first taste of hipster cool in 2016 when this Instagram-friendly bed-and-breakfast opened in a renovated Queen Anne mansion. Like its sister property in Brooklyn, Urban Cowboy’s eight suites and freestanding cabin are each uniquely named—Midnight Rider, the Lion’s Den—and decorated with geometric inlaid woodwork, Southwestern-inspired designs, and handcrafted furniture, plus custom wallpaper and copper and claw-foot tubs. The communal music parlor encourages interaction among guests with a collection of gently worn instruments, as does the all-weather fire pit, where blankets and good cheer are plentiful, especially after enjoying craft cocktails and wood-fired meals at Public House, the property’s on-site restaurant and bar.
Touting itself as “killer burgers and manly drinks,” Urban Stack is an upscale bar food restaurant that just happens to be LEED certified. Choose from one of their signature burgers, with selections like standard beef burgers, alongside lamb, chicken, turkey and veggie patties. Urban Stack also prides themselves on their bar, which leans heavily on bourbon and, of course, “Tennessee whiskey.” Try the Dixie 8, made with Chattanooga Whiskey. The renovated Southern Railway Baggage Building is the best place to enjoy a cocktail in Chattanooga.
The Goldberg brothers gave Nashville acclaimed restaurants and bars such as the Catbird Seat and Patterson House, plus a kitschy honky-tonk on Lower Broad. In 2013, they did it again with Pinewood Social, a coffee shop, restaurant, bar, karaoke space, and, yes, bowling alley. There’s even an outdoor pool and bar for when the weather is nice. Amid all the fun, however, don’t forget about the food and drinks served morning, noon, and night, from pot roast and fried chicken to house-made tagliatelle with mushrooms, asparagus, and egg.
One of the most popular new breweries in town, Black Abbey Brewing Company opens its “fellowship hall” tasting room Thursday through Sunday. Have a seat at one of the communal tables for a bite of cheese, olives and meats while tasting your way through beers like The Rose, a belgian-style blonde, or The Special, a traditional monastic-style beer. Black Abbey’s brews also are available at many restaurants and bars in town.
Top chefs clamor for the hams cured at Bentons, an unassuming smokehouse in Madisonville. Online orders can take more than a month; instead, drop in for a tour and take home some bacon. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.
Dive bar enthusiasts will appreciate the laissez faire attitude of the Hair of the Dog Pub a short walk from the Tennessee Aquarium. It’s designed like an English pub, but carries a full selection of American craft beers. It’s not a family spot to speak of, as smoking is allowed and you must be 21 years old to enter. The food is equally good, like the Turkey Reuben or the fish and chips.
Outside of Chattanooga’s downtown tourist district is the unexpectedly fantastic Chattanooga Zoo. The award-winning wildlife park has exhibits featuring some of the world’s most exotic animals. Chimpanzees, jaguars, snow leopards and sloths are among the exhibited creatures classified by habitat and part of the world they come from. If you and your family are on a budget, you can visit the zoo for less than $10 per person. The zoo is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm.
Settled into the main drag of Chattanooga’s North Shore is Winder Binder, a bookstore-cum-record store-cum-folk art gallery. You’ll be greeted by friendly pooches as you peruse the new and pre-loved books. Wander the aisle of literary greats or the selection of vinyl, particularly the file on Southern rock. If that’s not enough, there is folk art, painted onto pieces of wood and corrugated metal, covering every wall and even leaned up against the shelves. Winder Binder even hosts regular book signings and readings.