South Carolina

No longer a sleepy Southern backwater, South Carolina’s star is growing at a rapid clip, thanks to Charleston’s burgeoning culinary scene and the transformation of towns like Greenville and Beaufort into hip, cultural hubs. The state’s capital, Columbia, is home to the University of South Carolina and anchors the Piedmont region. Rivers flow northwest to southeast into numerous lakes that dot the state, offering outdoor recreation and boating opportunities. Whether you’re teeing off on a golf vacation in Myrtle Beach or exploring the state’s small towns via back roads, the secret is out: South Carolina is ripe for discovery.

St. Michaels Church and Broad St. in Charleston, SC

Photo by Susanne Pommer/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to South Carolina?

Geographically, South Carolina ranges from the barrier islands and pine forests of the coastal Lowcountry to the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains in the Upstate. Expect temperatures in the 90s and above across the state during summer. In the winter, the subtropical climate of Charleston and Hilton Head brings mild, sunny days that rarely reach freezing temperatures, even at night. Greenville experiences a full range of seasons, including a striking, fiery-toned autumn. In Charleston, tourism peaks in the spring, thanks to pleasant weather and events like the Southeastern Wildlife Exposition, Charleston Wine + Food, and Spoleto, a three-week celebration of the arts held each May and June. Retreats like Lakes Keowee and Jocassee in the Upstate are busiest during the summer months.

How to get around South Carolina

Charleston is home to the state’s busiest airport, although travelers can also fly direct to Columbia, Greenville, and Myrtle Beach from several East Coast locations. Locals frequently drive between cities to save on flights, since different airlines are represented at each. Public transportation is scarce in South Carolina, although Uber is popular in each major city. If you’re not staying in a central area or you plan to travel around the state, a car is a necessity.

Can’t miss things to do in South Carolina

- In Myrtle Beach, it’s possible to tee off at a different world-class golf course each day for weeks, although Kiawah Island—host to the PGA Championship—is where you’ll find South Carolina’s most celebrated links.

- Charleston is the state’s culinary hub, and home to dozens of award-winning restaurants, chefs, and food personalities. Many visitors come here just to eat, filling in time with carriage tours and day trips to the neighboring beach communities.

- History buffs should make time for a day trip to Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor or any of the other numerous Civil and Revolutionary War sites and battlefields that dot the state.

- For many, South Carolina’s highlights lie at a roadside produce stand or barbecue joint along a country drive, or in idyllic small towns like Beaufort, Conway, and Aiken.

- Over 200 miles of coastline draw families to South Carolina each year, with Myrtle Beach and Hilton Head being the most popular beach vacation destinations. A robust state park system also attracts those with children, offering everything from beachfront camping on Hunting Island to the scenic mountain trails at Table Rock and Caesars Head.

Food and drink to try in South Carolina

- South Carolina’s famous seafood is best enjoyed in the Lowcountry, where shrimp boats and oystermen still ply the waters, delivering their catch to be cooked and consumed soon after it leaves the sea. Although Charleston now has its share of raw oyster bars, the local bivalves are historically steamed over fire and served communally with melted butter or cocktail sauce.

- Barbecue here means pulled pork, smoked overnight. In the Piedmont, the indigenous sauce is mustard-based. Along the coast, you’re likely to find tomato- and vinegar-based options on the table, as well.

- In Charleston, Asian and international cuisines have gradually begun to take root and influence local menus. And each March, Charleston Wine + Food draws chefs and patrons from around the country, showing off the eclectic, energized culinary scene that the city has fostered.

Culture in South Carolina

Every small town in South Carolina seems to have an annual celebration for a local crop or cultural icon, be it grits, sweet potatoes, or bluegrass music, and each is unique and memorable in its own way. For more sophisticated entertainment, Greenville’s Peace Center is the Upstate’s hub for dance, symphony, and theater. Visual arts enthusiasts look to the Columbia Museum of Art or Charleston’s Gibbes Museum of Art, which boasts one of the South’s most notable collections. Each May and June in Charleston, Spoleto Festival USA is an international affair, hosting U.S. debuts of operas, plays, and concerts from the world’s foremost artists.

Local travel tips for South Carolina

- Like anywhere, you’ll feel like you’re in the know when you manage to avoid the crowds. In Charleston, plan your downtown sightseeing for the morning, before the heat settles in, and scoot to Sullivan’s Island or Folly Beach after lunch to catch the afternoon breeze.

- Spoleto and other springtime festivals are an excellent time to visit the Holy City, but book accommodations well in advance, or stay at one of the neighboring beaches and commute 20 minutes into town for day trips and dinner.

- Columbia slows down and swelters in the mid-summer heat, and is best visited during the spring and fall when USC is in session and the city hums with activity (reserve a room early if you’re there on the same weekend as a USC football game). Greenville is pleasant all year, but comes alive in the fall when the surrounding mountains glow yellow and orange with falling leaves.

Local Resources

- Charleston City Paper for event listings

- Holy City Sinner for Charleston news and events- Free Times for Columbia event listings

- Greenville Journal for daily news and event listings

Guide Editor

Stratton Lawrence is a writer and editor based in Folly Beach, South Carolina, where he settled and started a family after roaming from New Orleans to New York to Rome to the California coast. He’s the author of Folly Beach in Arcadia Publishing’s Images of America series, a co-author of two Fodor’s guides to Charleston and the Carolinas, and a regular contributor to Zagat and Thrillist. When he’s not writing about food, music, and travel, he’s performing his own acoustic songs, catching waves on his paddleboard, and hanging out with his wife—photographer Hunter McRae—and their son.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
This quaint neighborhood corner joint, on Charleston’s rapidly gentrifying Westside, serves Charleston food with a French accent. That’s not nouveau fusion-and-foams French—it’s rich old-school braises, and buttery, mounted sauces over braised local fish and pork ribs. Although the fancier entrees shine, it’s hard not to defer to the tempting double burger with pickled lunchbox peppers, or the French dip with its fall-apart brisket and intense au jus. Start with artichoke heart au gratin dip, the crab gnocchi with smoked bacon lardons, or a salad made with pears, figs, burrata, and toasted pine nuts. Pair everything with an excellent wine list and local beers. The best seats in the wood-ceilinged, cozy dining room overlook the kitchen (and can be reserved), where conversation with the cooks is welcome.
Just through the heavy wooden doors of this Sichuan pop-up-turned-brick-and-mortar is the Pour House, an always-busy music venue where early evening soundchecks often fill the dining room with drum and bass noise. Even louder are the explosive flavors on the plate—the kitchen is unrepentant about not toning down the spice on the Sichuan beef and Yu Xiang pork slivers. For the full lip-numbing cocaine-face experience, start with the dry-rubbed Shaoxing chicken wings, which balance sweet, salty, savory, and spice with plenty of crunch. A few noodle bowls are adaptable for the more spice averse, but this is a place for adventurous fire hounds. On Sundays, brunch offers one of Charleston’s only dim sum experiences, including plenty of dumplings, scallion pancakes, and turnip cakes. After a meal, head to the Pour House deck for free daily concerts by local bands, before bigger-name bands take the indoor stage at night.
Partly owned by part-time Charleston resident Bill Murray, Harold’s Cabin is a nutty combination of Murray’s sweetest comedic roles and Wes Anderson’s cockeyed art direction. This former neighborhood corner grocery store (opened by the namesake Harold Jacobs in 1929) keeps up the bodega tradition by offering some local goods on shelves and in refrigerated cases in the front, like pizza dough and milk, as well as fancier artisanal stuff. The rest of the place is more Wes Anderson—plaid-upholstered furniture, stenciled murals, vintage porch gliders, knotty pine panelling—the look is definitely not haphazard, though, it’s more balanced and a deliberate design. Entrust your cocktail or beer wishes to the affable veteran bartender, Drew Childers, who will draw from the extensive variety of local brews on tap or mix you a cocktail that draws inspiration not just from the bottles behind the bar but from the vegetables grown in the extensive roof garden as well. In addition to dinner entrees like a bison burger and a popular three-cheese ravioli in mushroom sauce, a ‘Graze ‘n Nosh’ menu section includes boards: a snack board is served with a sleeve of Ritz crackers teetering on a plank beside with cheese curds, slices of pepperoni, ham salad, pickles, and savoure cheeese; another board has a generous serving of cured salmon, latkes, pickles, and beet horseradish. The crowd is full of locals (the mournful face of a dog tied up outside implies that her evening constitutional was waylaid) and much of the conversation at the bar concerns surf reports and the merits of the beers on tap. There is frequently live music, as well as goofy regular events like a monthly Johnny Cash day on which customers dressed in black get a discount. Head out to Hampton Park Terrace and join Harold’s Cabin’s low-keyed party.
Charleston is a relatively small city to sport a food court, and Workshop’s out-of-the-way location on the Peninsula’s Neck underscores that. Situated in a Silicon Valley-esque complex of start-up office spaces, you’ll need to drive to get there, and once at the modern, industrial food hall, you’ll be faced with some tough decisions. The rotating vendors have included Juan Luis, a Tex-Mex spin from BBQ master John Lewis, and seasonal booths where the city’s up-and-coming chefs test out their latest concepts, from Japanese sliders to shareable Indian small plates. Although the vendors change regularly, there’s always a coffee shop, a craft pizza or burger stand, and a variety of ethnic options, making Workshop a must on any dining tour of Charleston’s latest and greatest. It’s also directly adjacent to Edmund’s Oast Brewing Co., a popular hangout and generally regarded among the city’s best breweries.
Charleston’s four-block City Market is a historic landmark (one of the oldest in the country, rivaled only by Baltimore’s Lexington Market) and an essential stop for locally made souvenirs and snacks. Pack up your sweetgrass basket (a traditional Gullah handicraft) and check in for the night across the street at the Market Pavilion Hotel. The hotel has all the plush trappings—Italian marble bathrooms, Hermes toiletries, treats at turndown—one could ask for in the French Quarter, topped off by a rooftop bar and pool with enviable views of the harbor and bustling East Bay street. On a particularly hot Southern night, you might cool off with a nitrogen-infused cocktail before sitting down to a steak dinner at Grill 225, which serves only aged, USDA-Prime meat. The hotel is a member of the Leading Hotels of the World and the restaurant is one of a dozen Great Steakhouses of North America.
Albertha Grant never set out to win a James Beard Foundation award and win the adoration of international magazines and patrons—she simply cooked good food and served it to people in her North Charleston neighborhood. But amidst the last decade’s gold rush around Charleston cuisine, Bertha’s shines in both its authenticity and flavor. It’s a classic soul food joint, with daily meat-and-three specials like fall-off-the-bone fried chicken, sumptuous pork chops, and collard greens that perfectly balance savory and sweet (there’s plenty sweet in the ice tea for everyone). The neighborhood is predominately African-American, and locals still line up here for lunch along with out-of-towners and Peninsula-based workers seeking Southern food done right. The late namesake’s daughters and granddaughters run the counter-service place now, efficiently taking orders to keep the line moving on busy weekdays.
Chef Jacques Larson operates on the fringes, creating destination restaurants far off the Charleston peninsula, first with his Johns Island trattoria, Wild Olive, and now with this seafood-and-pizza-focused outpost on Sullivan’s Island. His signature ricotta gnocchi with short-rib ragù and horseradish gremolata sets tastebuds salivating and inspires frequent return drives to the beach, as do pizzas like “Old Danger,” featuring pancetta, black pepper, and a farm egg over melted mozzarella and parmesan. Weekend brunch is in especially high demand, but the well-designed, nautical-but-not-kitsch dining room and wraparound raw bar stay packed for lunch and dinner every day of the week. Downstairs, there’s an in-house coffee-and-gelato shop, BeardCat’s, that doles out breakfast sandwiches and lattes in the morning and 20 flavors of house made icy goodness all afternoon and evening.
Thanks to its views across Charleston Harbor, the Edmondston-Alston House is one of the city’s most popular historic homes open to the public. Its hyphenated name joins that of its builder and of the rice planter who purchased it from him just a decade later. The mansion, with its Corinthian columns and rooftop piazza, is a prime example of the Greek Revival architecture popular in the early 19th century. The house was at the center of several key Civil War events: as a lookout spot for Confederate general P.G.T. Beauregard during the siege on Fort Sumter in April 1861, and as a refuge for General Robert E. Lee on the night of the Great Charleston Fire of 1861. The mansion is owned by the Alston family, and its interior is preserved to look much as it did 150 years ago.
The Hall family’s restaurant empire includes SNOB, High Cotton, and steakhouses in three cities, but this Upper King headquarters is where their pride in hospitality is most prominently on display. Diners are greeted upon arrival and bade farewell upon departure, often by one of owner Bill Hall, Sr.’s sons. The bartenders are equal parts warm and professional, but the real star is the meat. Halls’ menu includes dry-aged cuts and a massive wet-aged porterhouse, all sourced from Chicago’s acclaimed purveyor, Allen Brothers. The Chophouse is not haughty, however—there’s a kids’ menu, and most diners aren’t dressed for white tablecloth environs. Sunday’s popular gospel brunch features live singing from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. On weekdays, it’s worth a happy-hour swing-through for a glass of whisky or wine among the city’s top businessmen and power brokers, who mingle in this stately wood-and-leather classic Charleston spot.
Come for the drinks and stay for the music at the The Royal American. This “hole-in-the-wall” bar along Morrison Drive gets you up close to hip bands while drinking a beer, a signature punch, or the house made cinnamon whiskey, and dining on pub comfort food. You’ll want to look at the cool décor that includes a refurbished Wurlitzer jukebox and paintings on the ceiling of our own “Royal Americans”, such as Walt Disney, Frank Sinatra, Lucille Ball, Sitting Bull and Abraham Lincoln.