South Carolina

No longer a sleepy Southern backwater, South Carolina’s star is growing at a rapid clip, thanks to Charleston’s burgeoning culinary scene and the transformation of towns like Greenville and Beaufort into hip, cultural hubs. The state’s capital, Columbia, is home to the University of South Carolina and anchors the Piedmont region. Rivers flow northwest to southeast into numerous lakes that dot the state, offering outdoor recreation and boating opportunities. Whether you’re teeing off on a golf vacation in Myrtle Beach or exploring the state’s small towns via back roads, the secret is out: South Carolina is ripe for discovery.

St. Michaels Church and Broad St. in Charleston, SC

Photo by Susanne Pommer/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to South Carolina?

Geographically, South Carolina ranges from the barrier islands and pine forests of the coastal Lowcountry to the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains in the Upstate. Expect temperatures in the 90s and above across the state during summer. In the winter, the subtropical climate of Charleston and Hilton Head brings mild, sunny days that rarely reach freezing temperatures, even at night. Greenville experiences a full range of seasons, including a striking, fiery-toned autumn. In Charleston, tourism peaks in the spring, thanks to pleasant weather and events like the Southeastern Wildlife Exposition, Charleston Wine + Food, and Spoleto, a three-week celebration of the arts held each May and June. Retreats like Lakes Keowee and Jocassee in the Upstate are busiest during the summer months.

How to get around South Carolina

Charleston is home to the state’s busiest airport, although travelers can also fly direct to Columbia, Greenville, and Myrtle Beach from several East Coast locations. Locals frequently drive between cities to save on flights, since different airlines are represented at each. Public transportation is scarce in South Carolina, although Uber is popular in each major city. If you’re not staying in a central area or you plan to travel around the state, a car is a necessity.

Can’t miss things to do in South Carolina

- In Myrtle Beach, it’s possible to tee off at a different world-class golf course each day for weeks, although Kiawah Island—host to the PGA Championship—is where you’ll find South Carolina’s most celebrated links.

- Charleston is the state’s culinary hub, and home to dozens of award-winning restaurants, chefs, and food personalities. Many visitors come here just to eat, filling in time with carriage tours and day trips to the neighboring beach communities.

- History buffs should make time for a day trip to Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor or any of the other numerous Civil and Revolutionary War sites and battlefields that dot the state.

- For many, South Carolina’s highlights lie at a roadside produce stand or barbecue joint along a country drive, or in idyllic small towns like Beaufort, Conway, and Aiken.

- Over 200 miles of coastline draw families to South Carolina each year, with Myrtle Beach and Hilton Head being the most popular beach vacation destinations. A robust state park system also attracts those with children, offering everything from beachfront camping on Hunting Island to the scenic mountain trails at Table Rock and Caesars Head.

Food and drink to try in South Carolina

- South Carolina’s famous seafood is best enjoyed in the Lowcountry, where shrimp boats and oystermen still ply the waters, delivering their catch to be cooked and consumed soon after it leaves the sea. Although Charleston now has its share of raw oyster bars, the local bivalves are historically steamed over fire and served communally with melted butter or cocktail sauce.

- Barbecue here means pulled pork, smoked overnight. In the Piedmont, the indigenous sauce is mustard-based. Along the coast, you’re likely to find tomato- and vinegar-based options on the table, as well.

- In Charleston, Asian and international cuisines have gradually begun to take root and influence local menus. And each March, Charleston Wine + Food draws chefs and patrons from around the country, showing off the eclectic, energized culinary scene that the city has fostered.

Culture in South Carolina

Every small town in South Carolina seems to have an annual celebration for a local crop or cultural icon, be it grits, sweet potatoes, or bluegrass music, and each is unique and memorable in its own way. For more sophisticated entertainment, Greenville’s Peace Center is the Upstate’s hub for dance, symphony, and theater. Visual arts enthusiasts look to the Columbia Museum of Art or Charleston’s Gibbes Museum of Art, which boasts one of the South’s most notable collections. Each May and June in Charleston, Spoleto Festival USA is an international affair, hosting U.S. debuts of operas, plays, and concerts from the world’s foremost artists.

Local travel tips for South Carolina

- Like anywhere, you’ll feel like you’re in the know when you manage to avoid the crowds. In Charleston, plan your downtown sightseeing for the morning, before the heat settles in, and scoot to Sullivan’s Island or Folly Beach after lunch to catch the afternoon breeze.

- Spoleto and other springtime festivals are an excellent time to visit the Holy City, but book accommodations well in advance, or stay at one of the neighboring beaches and commute 20 minutes into town for day trips and dinner.

- Columbia slows down and swelters in the mid-summer heat, and is best visited during the spring and fall when USC is in session and the city hums with activity (reserve a room early if you’re there on the same weekend as a USC football game). Greenville is pleasant all year, but comes alive in the fall when the surrounding mountains glow yellow and orange with falling leaves.

Local Resources

- Charleston City Paper for event listings

- Holy City Sinner for Charleston news and events- Free Times for Columbia event listings

- Greenville Journal for daily news and event listings

Guide Editor

Stratton Lawrence is a writer and editor based in Folly Beach, South Carolina, where he settled and started a family after roaming from New Orleans to New York to Rome to the California coast. He’s the author of Folly Beach in Arcadia Publishing’s Images of America series, a co-author of two Fodor’s guides to Charleston and the Carolinas, and a regular contributor to Zagat and Thrillist. When he’s not writing about food, music, and travel, he’s performing his own acoustic songs, catching waves on his paddleboard, and hanging out with his wife—photographer Hunter McRae—and their son.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
With its Spanish moss-draped oak trees and beautiful stucco buildings, the College of Charleston‘s campus is long on atmosphere and makes a great place for a stroll. Randolph Hall, a magnificent edifice built in 1828 and one of the six college buildings on the register of National Historic Landmarks, has appeared in movies from The Patriot to Dear John, and in the Civil War miniseries North and South. Also of note, the President’s House, once the parsonage of St. Philip’s Church, is the oldest building on campus.
Waterfront Park runs a picturesque half-mile along the Cooper River, from an exuberant fountain at its north end (near the cruise ship terminal), to North Adgers Wharf at its southern border. There is much to recommend a stop in this small eight-acre space: a great path for running or strolling with expansive views of ships moving in and out of the harbor; a fountain topped with a pineapple sculpture that splashes water into a small wading pool where children are permitted to play; and, also welcome on hot Charleston afternoons, a tree-shaded promenade lined with benches for those in search of a sea breeze.
The Thoroughbred Club is in the lobby of Charleston Place hotel, right in the middle of downtown Charleston. They serve up classic cocktails (try their gussied-up negroni) and also have a great tea service, with live music every afternoon and evening.
With its pressed tin ceilings, exposed brick walls, and extensive cocktail menu, The Belmont could easily be mistaken for a bar in Brooklyn. But the laid-back vibe is pure Lowcountry. The Belmont is one of Charleston‘s first craft cocktail bars, and it’s still one of the best. No reservations.
The classic cocktail list at The Rarebit is hard to beat: Moscow mules served in gorgeous copper mugs, Manhattans with a touch of Benedictine. The food menu is composed of similarly solid throwbacks: a pork chop with mac and cheese and green beans, a perfect chicken club sandwich.
The Gin Joint opened in 2010 and was Charleston‘s first real dedicated craft cocktail spot. Five years later, it’s still going strong with its creative drinks menu (including a “bartender’s choice” option for the patron who wants a surprise) and great bites, from gourmet soft pretzels to “cornbread and milk” for dessert.
Whether it’s for breakfast, brunch, or a late eat after a night of revelry on King Street, owner Carrie Morey whips her mother’s recipe of the freshly baked, handmade Southern staples inside this counter-serve bake shop. Consisting of flour, butter, cream cheese, and buttermilk, biscuits come in sweet and savory flavors such as cheese and chive, country ham, blackberry, and black pepper bacon. For a more substantial meal, specials like fried chicken and pickle, and pimento cheese sandwiches are available. You’ll definitely stand in line at this sunny little counter-only shop, but here’s an insider tip: You can order ahead on the Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit app.
Everyone seems to be talking about Chez Nous and, frankly, it’s easy to see why. A meal here feels like dining at your most fashionable friend’s place. The restaurant is tucked away from the main drag in a beautiful Charleston single house, with a handwritten menu that changes daily, with the chef taking inspiration from the daily market as well as the cuisines of Northern Italy, Northern Spain, and Southern France. If the weather’s nice, request a table on the porch or in the courtyard.
FIG
It’s a big deal when a chef wins a James Beard Award for “Best Chef: Southeast.” It’s an even bigger deal when that chef’s successor wins the same award a few years later, but that’s exactly what happened at this downtown hot spot. Overseen by Mike Lata and helmed by Jason Stanhope, FIG is one of the hallmark restaurants that put Charleston’s dining scene on the map. Seasonal veggies are an important part of the menu, which is inventive and thoughtful without feeling fussy. (Anthony Bourdain raved when he dined at FIG—he had the asparagus salad with fromage blanc, quinoa, green garlic, and carrots—during a 2017 episode of Parts Unknown.) For local, creative food in the Lowcountry, FIG is the model.
XBB, as locals call it, occupies a remodeled and brightly furnished former gas station in the Elliotborough neighborhood. Catering to its surfer clientele with Nicaraguan beer, the spot also offers a constantly changing menu of authentic Asian fare. Order the Vietnamese-style shrimp toast, a purée of local shrimp, fish sauce, garlic, ginger, lime leaf, and chilies spread on baguette slices, then pan-fried—crispy and satisfying.