Honolulu

Its name means “Sheltered Bay” in the Hawaiian language, but Honolulu is now a tropical metropolis stretching around the entire island of Oahu. As Hawaii’s most populated city, Honolulu also lives up to Oahu’s meaning—a “Gathering Place” among the remote Pacific Islands. Honolulu offers loads of activities from snorkeling to surfing and from hiking to farm tours. Visitors to this Pacific crossroads will return home with a piece of paradise in their hearts.

The Best Hawaiian Islands to Visit for Different Kinds of Travelers

Photo by Erin Kunkel

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Honolulu?

Hawaii boasts the best weather on the planet, making nearly anytime the perfect time for an escape to Honolulu. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the Islands, and an unpredictable bout of rain remains the mild disclaimer of any tropical island destination, Honolulu included. August and February bring fewer tourists and better prices.

How to get around Honolulu

Domestic and international arrivals land directly at Honolulu International Airport on major U.S. airlines and international carriers including Qantas, Japan Airlines, Air New Zealand, and Air Canada. For travelers arriving from within the state, Hawaiian, Island Air, and Mokulele airlines operate interisland flights.

Despite being small, the state of Hawaii is full of tropical activities, and each of the four major islands is large enough to warrant a car rental. Honolulu’s main highways include H1, H2, and H3, and traffic is heavy, so build extra time into any day trip. Guests who prefer to stay in one place for most of their vacation can use taxis or shuttle services. Tour companies typically provide pickup services and meet guests at their hotel.

Can’t miss things to do in Honolulu

Hanauma Bay may not be as iconic as Diamond Head, or provide the beach experience of Lanikai or the shoppers’ dream of Ala Moana Center, but there is magic in the stunning cove of sea water in the middle of a volcanic crater. Hanauma is a nature preserve where sea creatures are protected and plentiful. Lucky snorkelers may see a turtle along with moray eels and the Hawaii state fish, the humuhumunukunukuapuaa. A short ecological and safety video is offered before entering the bay. Snorkeling equipment is available for rent on the beach. Parking is $1 per car, and entrance is $7.50 per adult visitor.

Food and drink to try in Honolulu

As in most American cities, diners in Honolulu can find a variety of cuisines. Honolulu’s predominant Asian and South Pacific Island cultures influence many menus. Travelers will love the seafood, including Hawaii’s signature ahi poke and fish fresh from the boat. Several restaurants offer organic and farm-fresh foods from local sources.

Culture in Honolulu

Honolulu is undoubtedly the largest business center in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, drawing businesses and people from all over the Pacific Rim. The city’s residents include native Hawaiian people, Asian and South Pacific immigrants, military personnel, colonial settlers from Europe, and more recent mainland transplants. The most recent U.S. land to attain statehood, Hawaii has a relatively short history. But in an ethnically diverse state, Hawaii’s people contribute to a great variety of cultural events, landmarks, and cuisine.

In addition to U.S. federal holidays, state holidays honor the history and culture of the Hawaiian people. Parades and festivities tie up Waikiki streets during celebrations like Kamehameha Day, Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole Day, and Statehood Day. Hawaii’s colorful exuberance and somber remembrance give visitors and locals a beautiful way to participate in the state’s history.

Local travel tips for Honolulu

While Waikiki is Honolulu’s tourist hub, nearby districts have a bit less congestion. Ala Moana offers restaurants, a large shopping mall, and a beautiful beach park. Kakaako is an up-and-coming neighborhood with shops, restaurants, and high-rise buildings popping up everywhere. Respect for the local people and culture goes a long way toward contributing to island spirit—from yielding when surfing on the waves to respecting the island as a place where locals live and work. While many Hawaiian businesses take credit cards, having cash on hand is essential at some restaurants and tour companies.

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Honolulu’s last great tiki bar is tucked behind a row of warehouses, six miles northwest of Waikiki. Set on the edge of Keehi Lagoon, it shelters under plumeria and coconut trees—and will be familiar to fans of Hawaii Five-0. La Mariana defies the kitsch label: All those shell chandeliers, puffer-fish lights, and fishing floats suspended in nets are the real deal, with most items dating back to 1957. Carved tikis abound, alongside high-gloss tables fashioned from koa, the rich-hued wood from endemic acacias and the source of weapons and voyaging canoes for ancient Hawaiians. Go for the ambience and strong mai tais; the menu is straight-up, old-school surf and turf, perfectly tasty but uninspiring.
Affectionately called the First Lady of Waikiki, this grande dame opened in 1901. Its gracious architecture harks back to the sugar-plantation era and wraps around a courtyard anchored by a massive banyan. Pull up a chair under its spreading branches—or else a seat overlooking the ocean—and enjoy island-inspired fine dining. East meets West here with appetizers like Kona abalone bourguignon, tempura asparagus with Parmesan custards, and twice-cooked octopus with macadamia romesco. Entrée standouts include the miso salmon and Korean-fusion Beach Bim Bop starring fiddlehead ferns, kimchi Brussels sprouts, and Ali’i mushrooms from Hawaiian grower Hamakua. Save room for its tour-de-force finale: A “dessert tree” with small bites of everything from macarons to red-velvet cheesecake.
This lovely, nostalgic shop has been selling traditional Hawai‘ian designs—bright and botanically themed—alongside contemporary creations by owner Michael John Gillan for decades. The classic buy is a kapaeke (an heirloom quilted handbag), but you can pick up everything from USB-stick holders to kits that teach the craft. The oldest retail quilt company in Hawai‘i, it has catered to local royalty, as well as Hollywood stars, and pioneered the islands’ fabric-art tradition in Japan. Its instructors offer lessons and demonstrations at Waikiki’s Beach Walk every Tuesday from 10 a.m. to noon, as well as at the Big Island’s Queens’ Marketplace every Sunday from 1–3 p.m.
Local restaurateur Hide Sakurai—also the force behind Shokudo next door—brings healthy grab-and-go options to the heart of Honolulu’s Ala Moana, the state’s largest shopping center. An artisan café and pinot wine bar, Bread & Butter seats around 50 and serves three meals a day. Argentine chef Arnaldo “Masa” Gushiken adds hints of Spanish and Japanese cuisine to the otherwise very locavore American menu. Highlights include the beet-peach-arugula salad and the house-smoked-ahi sandwich, balanced by the bright crunch of pickled vegetables in its side salad. Regulars also rave about the single servings of paella, the bell-pepper-goat-cheese dip, and the decadent truffle chicken starring an entire game hen.
One of the most recognizable sites in Hawaii, this volcanic ash cone overlooks Waikiki’s coastline—a tectonic memory from an explosion half a million years ago, measuring almost 3,500 feet across. British sailors named it Diamond Head in the 1800s, mistaking calcite crystals in the crater’s soil for jewels. Despite its volcanic grandeur, the ascent takes most hikers an hour or so, clocking in at 560 feet of elevation gain and 1.6 miles round-trip. At the top, on a clear day, you can see all of Oahu’s south shore, from Koko Crater and Waikiki to the mountains of the Wai’anae Range.
Every December 7 at Pearl Harbor, there is a memorial to those who died in the awful attacks that day in 1941. Survivors gather here, though fewer every year remain alive. Oil still rises from where the USS Arizona lies in the harbor. The horrific events of December 7 are still a raw part of the history here. Several months ago, the civil defense sirens went off all over Oahu. It was a glitch in the system, but I remember an elderly woman in downtown Honolulu who said she looked at the sky because she remembers when there really was an air raid, and the sirens bring her back to that time of eminent danger when what seemed impossible unfolded in front of her young eyes. For history buffs, students, and all sorts of tourists, this is a “must visit” National Park on Oahu. Tickets to take the boat to the memorial are cheap (but do require an advanced booking of a couple days), and there are several other activities and museums at Pearl Harbor to explore including a walk through the USS Bowfin.
The 112-room Surfjack Hotel channels 1960’s Hawaii, with vintage upholstery on the headboards, reed ceilings, and midcentury modern furnishings. The onsite Swim Club, with its outdoor pool bar, hosts music events and movie nights. Don’t miss a meal at Mahina & Sun from celebrated Honolulu-born chef Ed Kenney, whose menu showcases island cuisine and ingredients, or a trip to the Olive & Oliver boutique, whose clothing and accessories line are inspired by Hawaiian culture.
A Hawaiian fantasyland on Oahu’s more remote leeward coast, about 40 minutes from Waikiki, Aulani is so seductive—for all ages—that many guests are loath to leave the property at all. And who can blame them? The beach is an idyllic cove (albeit a man-made one) stocked with kayaks, boogie boards, and everything else little beach bums could want. Then there are the three pools, including one for adults only and one filled with tropical fish for snorkelers-in-training, two impressive waterslides, and the biggest crowd-pleaser of them all, a 900-foot-long lazy river where guests, big and small, splash around on inner tubes as they meander around a faux-rock grotto. Goofy, Minnie, Mickey, and the rest—all in their vacation outfits—make occasional cameos at the breakfast buffet or by (sometimes, in) the pool. But while Aulani is most assuredly every kid’s dream, it is not every parent’s nightmare. The resort decor is more traditionally Hawaiian than obnoxiously Magic Kingdom; the lobby is built to recall an old canoe house, on a grand scale, and is covered in murals, painted by local artists, depicting island life. Hawaiian storytellers gather around a fire pit at night, and rooms have warm woods, with a single subtle reference to the Mouse King—a wooden carving of Mickey with a surfboard and ukulele that doubles as a desk lamp. Perhaps best of all, the Aulani has an outstanding, supervised kids’ club that’s free to guests ages 3 to 12. Babysitters are available for kids as young as six weeks old.
Both of Waikiki’s Outrigger hotels are a good value, but this one is a little bigger and a little quieter. It’s right on the beach, just north of the main resort cluster, and though a short walk to the middle of the action, far enough to feel out of the fray. The hotel itself is a quintessential Hawaiian family resort—big and friendly, with an unmistakable good-time vibe, old-school Polynesian decor throughout, and any number of activities on offer. The pool is set back from the beach and nothing fancy (no waterslides, no swim-up bar, and up against a giant wall), but it’s large enough for a serious game of Marco Polo, and there are plenty of lounge chairs to go around. Perhaps the best reason to stay here is the beach—a fairly narrow but sparkling white strand with more elbow room than its sister beaches; the rocky bottom may have something to do with that, but it’s a good place to learn to surf and a great place to catnap in the sun. One warning: the hotel lobby may feel overly commercial to some, what with a row of gift shops and a hard-to-miss timeshare desk, but it’s easy enough to ignore, if you wish.