Kerala

Kerala is the southernmost state on India’s western coast. A progressive socialist region—Kerala boasts of one of the highest literacy rates in the country—it’s also one of the country’s most beautiful, with a long sandy coastline, velvet green hills, and dense forests, all interpenetrated by the snaking channels and sweeping expanses of the backwaters. The state has a rich history and a tradition of hospitality, and it’s easy to slip right into the relaxed pace of life. The state capital, Thiruvananthapuram, is also known as Trivandrum; the popular city of Kochi is also known as Cochin.

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Photo Courtesy of Chiara Goia

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Kerala

Beaches, backwaters, and tea and spice plantations aside, there’s a lot of history to be enjoyed in Kerala. Stroll around Fort Kochi, the historic core of the city, and travel back to the time of spice traders and merchants along the lanes of Jew Town, past the Paradesi Synagogue. Visit the Santa Cruz Basilica and St. Francis Church, before heading to Mattancherry to enjoy the murals and temple art at Mattancherry Palace, a 1555 gift from the Portuguese to the Raja of Kochi. Kerala is home to some of the biggest temples in India and is a popular pilgrimage destination, with temples like the historic Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram, the Guruvayur Temple in Guruvayur, and Vadakkunnathan Temple in Thrissur.

Culture in Kerala

Dance, music, and art are ingrained in the local way of life. Many Indian classical dance forms trace their roots to Kerala’s waters. The most well-known of these are kathakali—a dance drama traditionally performed only by men—and the graceful, 16th-century form of mohiniattam, a temple dance performed only by women. Kerala is also known for its ancient practice of kalaripayattu, a dramatic martial art form that dates back 3,000 years; daily shows take place at the Cochin Cultural Centre in Kochi. Modern forms of artistic expression are also revered; Kerala’s film industry is famous for churning out Malayalam masterpieces and blockbusters, rivaling the Hindi film industry based out of Mumbai.

Food and drink to try in Kerala

Three big influences dominate Kerala’s culinary culture: Hindu vegetarian preparations, which include the festive sadhya—a banquet of at least 20 dishes served on banana leaves—and popular rice-based snacks such as dosas and idlis; the Islamic influences of Malabar cuisine, known for its aromatic biryanis and flatbreads served with beef fry; and Syrian Christian flavors, with roast duck, stews, and crepes, as well as rich Christmas cakes. All three styles of cuisine make good use of coconut, both grated and in milk form. Seafood and root vegetables are also common, as are an assortment of homegrown spices.

Shopping

Kerala isn’t a place where you stock up on soft cottons and colorful footwear. In Kerala, you stock up on metals: brass, bronze, copper, and gold. Ornate brass and copper vessels, statues, and idols are particular specialties. In addition, given the popularity of jewelry in the state, there’s a gold shop on every other street corner. Products made from coir, a coconut fiber, are also a big draw, and include masks, mats, and handbags. Other items to look for include wood carvings, elephant figurines, foot stools, and unique vintage items, including ornate furniture. Shipping can be arranged by most sellers, if necessary. If you prefer to travel light, buy a bag of fresh, homegrown spices.

Practical Information

The weather in Kerala is comfortable from late October to May; June to September is monsoon season. Kerala has three airports that serve international and domestic destinations: Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram, and Kozhikode. All foreign visitors require an Indian visa. You can get around in private taxis, or take tourist buses and trains for longer distances. Malayalam is the local language, but English is widely understood. Local transactions are made in the Indian rupee (INR); hotels, big stores, and restaurants accept credit cards, but smaller establishments might not. ATMs are widely available. Most bills include a service charge in lieu of tip; if this is not added, it’s common to tip 10%. Electricity is 220 volts.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
In a city of almost 22 million people, perhaps 20 million of them would recommend Chacha’s for their specialty - Chole Bhature. The classic North Indian dish is spicy chickpeas with fried bread. Sounds simple enough, but nothing can come close to this iconic stand in Kamla Nagar. There are only two tables without chairs, so you either eat standing or take it elsewhere to enjoy. My husband, born and raised in the same neighborhood and a frequent patron, has actually talked about Chacha Di Hatti in his sleep. I believe that says it all.
The 50 best restaurants in the world, the top restaurants in Asia, the best restaurants in India—this elegant eatery has made all those award lists and more, often for several years in a row. Helmed by chef Manish Mehotra—himself a perennial “best chef” winner and MasterChef India judge—Indian Accent first opened at The Manor in 2009, where it quickly garnered acclaim for its modern take on subcontinental cuisine. It moved to The Lodhi hotel in 2017, where—in a striking, contemporary space lined with windows, paneled with mother-of-pearl, and centered around a “floating” glass-box private dining space—the high-quality and creativity has continued to soar. Some dishes skew “new Indian,” while others are more global with an Indian twist; either way, plates are colorful, flavorful, and artfully presented. Don’t miss signature dishes like galautis (kebabs) stuffed with fois gras, pulled pork tacos, butter popcorn upma, and duck khurchan served in a cone and topped with yogurt and chili. Get your carbs on with one of the nine types of bread—some layered with potatoes or Camembert—and wash it down with a “chat” sangria or masala-infused martini. While there are now Indian Accent outposts in New York and London, the Delhi location remains a must-visit—and, as of 2018, is still the one of the only restaurants in India to make all those award lists.
Dum Pukht is not just a meal. It is a royal experience. The restaurant has won numerous awards, including “Delhi’s Best Restaurant” and “Asia’s Golden Fork Award.” Indulge in traditional Indian dishes which are created with a special method involving cooking the food in heavy bottomed and sealed vessels to intensify flavors of the dish. Along with Bukhara, another of Delhi’s best, Dum Pukht is located in the ITC Maurya Hotel. Reservations are strongly recommended.
Let’s be honest. It’s so much fun to say the name of this restaurant. Inflections aside, Oh! Calcutta undeniably has the best Bengali food in Delhi. Oh! it’s delicious! Their specialty is seafood, but definitely try the Koraishutir Dhokar Dalna (lentil cakes) and papaya chutney. Oh! and be prepared to wait without a reservation.
India is very lucky to have three locations of this Michelin-starred, London-based restaurant: Mumbai, Bangalore, and Delhi. Yauatcha is a casual yet modern Chinese tea and dim sum house. They also offer loose-leaf teas, wok items, and unbelievably good truffle edamame dumplings. Don’t forget to sample their signature macaroons on your way out.
Ghantewala Halwai is an icon not only in Delhi, but all over India. Established in 1790, it is considered one of the oldest sweet shops in the country. Ghantewala has served Mughal Emperors, dignitaries, and of course the locals and tourists who scramble to sample the Pista Barfi. The Sohan Halwa, or traditional Persian sweet, is so good that folklore claims it stopped impending battles in the capital. Make sweets, not war.
In 1950, two halwais—or confectioners—from the Rajasthani city of Bikaner ventured to big city of Delhi to ply their traditional snacks together. Setting up a stall in the Old Delhi Chadni Chowk market, they crafted sweet and savory treats like rasgollas (cheese dumplings in a sugary syrup) and Bikaner bhujuia (fried flour and lentil crisps), based on family recipes—and soon became so well-known that the people of Delhi bestowed them with the nickname of “Bikanervalas,” in honor of their hometown. Today, the brand has over 50 outposts across India, from the Himalayan foot hills of Dehradun and the Mumbai airport to the upscale Hyderabad neighborhood of Banjara Hills, but that Old Delhi original remains. Come for classics like till chikki (nut brittle squares with sesame seed and brown sugar), rich halwas and milk cakes, fruit-and-nut chocolates, and more, as well as seasonal choices. All of the locations are casual, but some are take-out shops only, while other serve a fast-food menu of chaat, Indian and Continental main dishes (including parathas, veggie burgers, and pizzas), desserts, and shakes.
Imagine a scene from Scott F. Fitzgerald’s Great Gatsby where a live jazz band serenades guests as they subliminally move to the rhythm of the music, with hors d’oeuvres in one hand and a vodka martini in the other. Expect a mirrored image of the same vibrant energy and posh ambience of Gatsby’s soirees aboard the Orient Express. Orient Express, the most expensive restaurant in Delhi and voted one the world’s best restaurants, offers a world-class dining experience alongside live jazz bands and fresh food flown in daily from France. The luxurious culinary journey begins in private booths on faux carriages that beautifully mimic the legendary train. The crisp menu offers cuisines of all countries through which the Orient Express traversed, with the classic French fare remaining triumphant. Revel in the seven-course meal, with an appetizer to whet your appetite and the signature dessert to perfect the extravaganza, and of course, succulent sorbet bites in between dishes to neutralize your overwhelmed, yet gratified palate. The individual carriages of the Orient Express are illuminated by gleaming brass fittings, polished wood paneling, and steel facades which not only mesmerize, but promise to fiercely invigorate your senses.
24/7 is fine dining in the exclusive LaLiT Hotel near Connaught Place. It is also the only space in the city where you can order drinks at any time of day or night - hence the name 24/7. A buffet is offered during breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a-la-carte options served the remainder of the day. Cocktails served anytime, including during Sunday brunch.
Global celebrities like Bill and Hillary Clinton and Bruce Springsteen have all been spotted at Bukhara. Ranked as one of New Delhi’s top (and priciest) restaurants since 1977, the legendary spot—now located at the ITC Maurya hotel—celebrates India’s rugged North West Frontier region in both its décor and menu. Though the faux-rustic design seems a bit like that of a theme restaurant (think cracked stone walls, low seating, lots of wood beams and clay pots), the cuisine is legit. So legit, in fact, that there’s no cutlery, so guests eat with their hands. (You are issued an apron for protection.) The dishes of the Frontier region tend towards the warm, hearty, and comforting, crafted using tandoor clay ovens and wood fires, so expect staples like marinated kebabs, rich lentils, fluffy bread, and lots of meat; the signature Sikandri Raan mutton leg, burrah (lamb) kebabs, and off-the-menu Chicken Khurchan are particular favorites, along with overflowing shareable platters. Reservations are recommended as the place does gets packed.