Kerala

Kerala is the southernmost state on India’s western coast. A progressive socialist region—Kerala boasts of one of the highest literacy rates in the country—it’s also one of the country’s most beautiful, with a long sandy coastline, velvet green hills, and dense forests, all interpenetrated by the snaking channels and sweeping expanses of the backwaters. The state has a rich history and a tradition of hospitality, and it’s easy to slip right into the relaxed pace of life. The state capital, Thiruvananthapuram, is also known as Trivandrum; the popular city of Kochi is also known as Cochin.

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Photo Courtesy of Chiara Goia

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Kerala

Beaches, backwaters, and tea and spice plantations aside, there’s a lot of history to be enjoyed in Kerala. Stroll around Fort Kochi, the historic core of the city, and travel back to the time of spice traders and merchants along the lanes of Jew Town, past the Paradesi Synagogue. Visit the Santa Cruz Basilica and St. Francis Church, before heading to Mattancherry to enjoy the murals and temple art at Mattancherry Palace, a 1555 gift from the Portuguese to the Raja of Kochi. Kerala is home to some of the biggest temples in India and is a popular pilgrimage destination, with temples like the historic Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram, the Guruvayur Temple in Guruvayur, and Vadakkunnathan Temple in Thrissur.

Culture in Kerala

Dance, music, and art are ingrained in the local way of life. Many Indian classical dance forms trace their roots to Kerala’s waters. The most well-known of these are kathakali—a dance drama traditionally performed only by men—and the graceful, 16th-century form of mohiniattam, a temple dance performed only by women. Kerala is also known for its ancient practice of kalaripayattu, a dramatic martial art form that dates back 3,000 years; daily shows take place at the Cochin Cultural Centre in Kochi. Modern forms of artistic expression are also revered; Kerala’s film industry is famous for churning out Malayalam masterpieces and blockbusters, rivaling the Hindi film industry based out of Mumbai.

Food and drink to try in Kerala

Three big influences dominate Kerala’s culinary culture: Hindu vegetarian preparations, which include the festive sadhya—a banquet of at least 20 dishes served on banana leaves—and popular rice-based snacks such as dosas and idlis; the Islamic influences of Malabar cuisine, known for its aromatic biryanis and flatbreads served with beef fry; and Syrian Christian flavors, with roast duck, stews, and crepes, as well as rich Christmas cakes. All three styles of cuisine make good use of coconut, both grated and in milk form. Seafood and root vegetables are also common, as are an assortment of homegrown spices.

Shopping

Kerala isn’t a place where you stock up on soft cottons and colorful footwear. In Kerala, you stock up on metals: brass, bronze, copper, and gold. Ornate brass and copper vessels, statues, and idols are particular specialties. In addition, given the popularity of jewelry in the state, there’s a gold shop on every other street corner. Products made from coir, a coconut fiber, are also a big draw, and include masks, mats, and handbags. Other items to look for include wood carvings, elephant figurines, foot stools, and unique vintage items, including ornate furniture. Shipping can be arranged by most sellers, if necessary. If you prefer to travel light, buy a bag of fresh, homegrown spices.

Practical Information

The weather in Kerala is comfortable from late October to May; June to September is monsoon season. Kerala has three airports that serve international and domestic destinations: Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram, and Kozhikode. All foreign visitors require an Indian visa. You can get around in private taxis, or take tourist buses and trains for longer distances. Malayalam is the local language, but English is widely understood. Local transactions are made in the Indian rupee (INR); hotels, big stores, and restaurants accept credit cards, but smaller establishments might not. ATMs are widely available. Most bills include a service charge in lieu of tip; if this is not added, it’s common to tip 10%. Electricity is 220 volts.

Guide Editor

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Set on pristinely manicured grounds, the Trident Hotel offers a modern alternative to the traditional properties found throughout Jaipur. One of its biggest selling points is its prime location—across from the stunning Jal Mahal and just a short drive from the majestic Amber Fort—but rooms offer plenty to love, from the Rajasthani archways and rich upholstery to the beautiful views across the property’s expansive lawns. In addition to two restaurants and a handful of event spaces, the Trident offers a sleek fitness center, luxurious spa, and quiet courtyard with a swimming pool, not to mention a kids’ club with activities like arts and crafts and cooking classes.
Ask any Goan for a restaurant recommendation and the response almost always includes Martin’s Corner. The family-run restaurant has come a long way from its start as a corner shop, and many locals consider eating its sorpotel, lobster piri-piri, and chicken xacuti as almost a rite of passage. From first dates to family gatherings, the crowd here is diverse and loyal. The rustic setup features outdoor dining, live music, and one of the better bar menus around town. Several framed culinary awards line the walls, including one for ”Best Coastal Food Restaurant” as well as the Times Food Award for Best Goan Cuisine. Martin’s Corner also boasts “dedicated free parking,” a feature often and proudly advertised.
Mirroring a Parisian bistro, La Plage is simple, chic, and unassuming. Carefully tucked away in North Goa, the restaurant has a laid-back atmosphere that complements its stellar French menu of crispy sardines in lime zest, prawn lollipops on sugarcane, beefsteak, grilled calamari with eggplant, and fresh fish soufflé. Frequented by celebrities and locals, it sports a casual vibe, with up to five friendly house dogs roaming around. Save room for the chocolate thali: A play on the savory Indian dish, this sweet version features several decadent samples of truffle, soufflé, ice cream, crepe, and mousse. During high season (December to February), reservations are a must for the evening hours.
Spread out over 45 acres of palm-lined grounds that wind down to Arossim Beach, this luxurious South Goa resort is an ideal base for every kind of traveler. Bon vivants will appreciate the 248 rooms and suites for their high ceilings, marble bathrooms, and views overlooking the pool or adjacent lagoon. Wellness seekers will love the Ayurvedic treatments and yoga and meditation classes. And epicures will delight in on-site cooking lessons that serve as a deep dive into Goan cuisine. For those who’d rather leave their culinary adventures to the experts, the resort offers five restaurants dishing out everything from grilled catch-of-the-day to wood-fired pizzas, plus a few fine-dining takes on classic North Indian and Goan specialties. In late autumn, voyeurs who arrive at the hotel, a popular venue for big fat Indian destination weddings, are rewarded with a parade of hundreds of chic Delhi and Mumbai twentysomethings dressed in their finest attire—definitely something to write home about.
This astonishing human-powered Laundromat near Mahalaxmi Station is where scores of dhobis (laundrymen) bring dirty clothes from homes and hotels from all over the city each morning to clean them by hand in big open-air troughs. It’s an incredible sight—hundreds of thousands of items of apparel are said to pass through here each day—and what’s even more incredible is that each shirt, vest and sock finds its way back to its rightful owner, clean and folded, later that day.