Dinner cruises on the Seine have been on the Parisian visitor's bucket list since they were first introduced. Some of the modern boats lack charm, and the expensive food they serve is often less than stellar, two developments that threaten to give the tradition a bad name. Le Calife, a 1939 wooden barge full of nautical brass, is a glamorous exception. The boat cruises the river twice a day on two-hour itineraries and serves a light and creative menu with inspired vegetarian options for each course. A glass-enclosed dining deck provides a clear view of the city, regardless of the weather.