The Best Places to Visit in Switzerland

Forty miles from Zurich in the heart of central Switzerland, the Axenstrasse is a historic motorway that’s so achingly scenic it might even cure your vertigo. It winds for seven miles around the base of the Uri Alps hugging the verdant ridge of turquoise Lake Uri (a branch of the four-fingered Vierwaldstätter See—Four Forested Cantons Lake—more familiar to most tourists as Lake Lucerne). It occasionally careens through century-old mountain tunnels and past painted bell towers and Roman-era viaducts scattered around the region’s Alpine villages, where the legendary folk hero William Tell is supposed to have come from. There are numerous picnic areas along the older sections of the Axenstrasse, and the entire stretch of lake is swimmable in the summer. Hikers can find a variety of trails along the road that can take them to higher altitudes, where they can spot ibex, chamois, alpine orchids, purple gentian, and acrobatic alpine choughs, riding the thermals of the warm foehn winds, said by locals to cause madness.

While many associate them with the British Isles, the Celts were the dominant culture in Switzerland for about a millennium (from around 500 B.C.E. to 400 C.E.). The country’s lakes, particularly Lake Neuchâtel, were the epicenter of Celtic culture here during the La Tène era, when Celtic settlements could be found from Turkey to Ireland. The Laténium Park and Archaeological Museum, named after extraordinary excavations in Neuchâtel, is home to the world’s premier collection of Celtic treasures unearthed in Europe. The museum boasts an übermodern design—by a consortium of four Geneva architects—that is impressive, but the hundreds of dazzling items that it houses are the real attraction: a Gallo-Roman ship, a Celtic bridge, and finely wrought gold, glass, and stone treasures found in and around the lakes. Ongoing exhibitions provide introductions to this culture that had a huge influence on the story of Europe. As the Laténium covers some 50,000 years of local history and not just the Celtic period, allow yourself a few hours to digest it all.

There’s something dark and offbeat about the Jura, Switzerland’s 26th and youngest canton. Located in a distant corner of the deep, wooded Doubs River Valley bordering France, the town of St. Ursanne embodies some of the canton’s surprising remoteness and offers a glimpse of a medieval village untouched by modernity. According to legend, the village, perched on the banks of the Doubs River, was founded by the 7th-century Irish monk Ursicinus, who was banished from Burgundy and became a hermit here. Arriving visitors will first have to cross the four-arched Doubs Bridge before getting to see the town’s medieval edifices, including 14th-century half-timber burgher houses and a 12th-century collegiate church. Climb the 190 steps to access the St. Ursicinus hermitage or a go on short, signposted hike to some castle ruins and the Doubs Nature Park.

Pack your bikini and a bottle of cold Ticinese rosé and head to the campanile-spiked hills above Locarno. In Switzerland’s sunny and steep-sloped Italian-speaking Canton Ticino, locals and visitors alike love a bracing dip in the cool mountain water—and there’s no better place to witness this than at the historic Ponte dei Salti (Jumping Bridge), a double-arched bridge across the Verzasca River where bronzed young Ticinese plunge into the river’s lustrous emerald depths. From the city of Locarno, the intense hike to the ancient Roman relic hugs the Verzasca River and passes through chestnut groves, vineyards, fragrant pine forests, and the iconic Contra (or Verzasca) Dam where scenes from the James Bond thriller GoldenEye were shot. If your time is limited, take the 45-minute PostBus to the bridge (included with a Swiss Travel Pass) and walk down. Or take the bus all the way to the end of the road in the Alpine village of Sonogno, where a jade-colored waterfall pool, the river’s source, awaits.

Trade your yodeling for yoga at this free-spirited meditation center in the former Grand Hotel Sonnenberg, a converted Beaux-Arts property nesting atop an enviable ridge in Seelisberg that overlooks the peaceful and turquoise Lake Uri below. The center was founded by the late Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, guru to the Beatles (among many other celebrities). For the unenlightened, the center’s friendly, English-speaking staff will give you a free tour of the facility and a 101 on TM (Transcendental Meditation). Additional activities like yajna rituals and Ayurvedic treatments can be arranged for long-term visitors. Even if TM is not for you, it’s worth the trek to Seelisberg for the glorious views and the rhododendron and rose gardens surrounding the center, which is open to all.

This scenic gorge and hermitage is named after the 3rd-century St. Verena, a Coptic Christian who was born in Egypt but is believed to have joined the Theban Legion’s mission to the Roman province of Rhaetia (partly located in modern-day Switzerland) and eventually came to live in a cave near the site of the hermitage, helping fellow young girls in the area. This mystical gorge and romantic streamside hermitage continues to be maintained by a real live hermit who was hired by the town in 2016. (The previous hermit got tired of the media scrutiny and quit the post. No joke!) The idyllic site is best accessed via an easy two-kilometer (just over a mile) hike, peppered with highlights like the mossy Magdalene and Mount of Olives grottoes and a tidy forested chapel built directly into the misty gorge, considered by some to be an ionic hot spot. Whatever your beliefs, it’s hard to deny that this primordial place is charged with oodles of Swiss manna.

One of only three trains in the world to have been recognized with UNESCO’s World Heritage status (the others are in Austria and India), this scenic passenger route was built in 1889 and stretches for 150 miles from Thusis, Switzerland, to Tirano, Italy, via 84 tunnels and 383 vertiginous bridges and viaducts. The rails don’t just connect this primordial landscape of sparkling teal rivers, hyacinth-blue glaciers, and jagged pink-hued rocks; they also serve a number of cities and towns, including St. Moritz and several Romansh-speaking villages in the stunning Engadine Valley. Keep the camera on, because the train zips past Roman-era chapels, Celtic archaeological sites, modernist thermal baths, and numerous Hapsburg-era castles—some crumbling atop mountains, others perfectly built into the Alps like something from Tolkien’s Rivendell. Highlights include the C-shaped Landwasser Viaduct, a 213-foot-high, six-arch viaduct spanning the Landwasser River, and the nine-arch spiral viaduct in Brusio that will have rail enthusiasts in a tizzy. Though this is not a sightseeing train, highlights are announced (somewhat annoyingly, in five or six languages) on the overhead system as the train passes them. Most trains have panoramic cars with curved glass ceilings and seats costing an additional five to 10 Swiss francs.

Art-loving hikers and Instagram-posting skiers are fond of the Engadine Valley’s unique sgraffiti, decorative murals found on the exterior plaster or stucco walls of chalets and other buildings. They range from 500-year-old pastoral scenes to 20th-century brutalist depictions of railroad workers and hoe-clutching farmers. Typically, these works are made by scratching through the building’s surface to reveal a sub-layer of a contrasting color. Some of the best sgraffiti are found in the most remote villages, and generally, the closer you get to the Italian border, the more you’ll see. Engadine native Josin Neuhäusler is a sgraffito artist who also gives tours of the works.

Expect to see Alexander Calder mobiles mixed into a Peter Fischli and David Weiss display, or pieces by Paul Klee and Claude Monet side by side with contemporary artworks from Wolfgang Tillmans. There’s no one set theme at the Fondation Beyeler, Basel’s glassy, Renzo Piano–designed temple to creativity, on grounds graced with bucolic trees and greenery and stuffed to the gills with blue-chip art. The foundation was established by Basel art dealers Hildy and Ernst Beyeler and is arguably one of the most important contemporary museums in Switzerland. The exhibitions timed to coincide with Art Basel (in mid-June) are often some of its best.

This Alpine area in Appenzellerland sits at an altitude of more than 5,000 feet and is home to the much-photographed Aescher-Gasthaus, Switzerland’s version of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. The 19th-century guesthouse was constructed directly into a jagged cliff face and while guests can no longer stay overnight, it’s a popular place for a meal. The cable car to Aescher departs from Wasserauen, and then a 20-minute hike passes ancient Wildkirchli caves that were once home to prehistoric bears and, later, 16th-century hermits. There’s also a grotto chapel built right into the stone, a small museum, and a sheep farm on some seriously steep meadow terrain.

Swiss contemporary artist Pipilotti Rist’s site-specific permanent installation piece, commissioned by the local bank, takes over an entire city plaza in her hometown. The plaza is draped in red carpet and paint, creating a space that’s an absurd take on the VIP concept. It’s fitting, then, that the “City Lounge” is located in the center of St. Gall’s financial hub of Bleicheli. It gives the illusion of spilling between the alleyways and seeping around corners, covering everything in its path, including fountains, benches, and even a sculpted Porsche. She worked with artist-architect Carlos Martinez to create the site in 2005, which was restored in recent years.

There are several Alpine passes in Switzerland that offer a thrill, but none as serpentine and lunar as the Grimsel. The steep, corkscrew road rises to an elevation of 7,100 feet, connecting Canton Bern to Canton Valais and leading travelers through an eerie, treeless world where smooth, storm-softened rocks can feel more Scottish than Swiss. The road also bypasses the town of Meiringen, where meringue was invented, and the imposing and now-infamous Reichenbach Falls, where Sherlock Holmes met his end at the hands of his nemesis, Professor Moriarty. At its top there are several trails to explore; many of them traverse through caves and old Swiss military tunnels and bunkers.

From the Bristen station in Maderanertal, the sweet red Golzernseilbahn (cable car) ascends over verdant pasture and vertiginous scrubby trenches before dropping you at the trailhead. Then it’s an uncomplicated, short, and flat 30-minute hike to this Alpine swimming lake, ideal for families and elders seeking easy access and natural summer swims. The trail gently undulates over picturesque, chalet-strewn meadows where the clang of cowbells and smell of wildflowers are a potent reminder of your whereabouts. It’s also lined with honor-system kiosks hawking hunks of homemade Alpkäse (Alpine cheese) and locally quarried quartz and crystal for as little as five Swiss francs.

The Engadine Valley may be famous for its crystalline winter light called diamond dust, but cloud porn reaches its animistic apex here atop the Maloja Pass, a road that soars to an elevation of 6,000 feet and connects the valley to Chiavenna, Italy. It’s a prime spot for sightings of the dense, white, serpentine-shaped cloud known as the Maloja Snake that slowly twists through the jagged tips of the peach-hued mountains in mornings and evenings. The weather phenomenon has existed for centuries but it came to popular attention thanks to the 2014 film Clouds of Sils Maria that was shot here and that stars Juliet Binoche and Kristen Stewart.

First, make your way by car or PostBus to the top of the Flüela Pass, situated in a Romansh-speaking region of Canton Graubünden at an altitude of 7,818 feet and amid rugged, stream-laced highland moors. From the road’s summit, begin the even more rugged ascent to the Jöriseen, a trio of Alpine lakes, each a different shade of aquamarine. The best, and really the only, way to see the area is via the Jöriseen Rundtour, an intense four-to-five-hour hike that takes you straight up past pastures and scree to the summit of Winterlücke. The route has an abundance of wildflowers like gentians and alpine orchids, and birds like shy wheatears and alpine choughs. At the trail’s end, you can refuel on tasty homemade venison sausage at Flüela Hospiz, a weathered inn and restaurant near two lakes, the Schottensee and the smaller Schwarzsee, a favorite of fly-fisherfolk. It’s run by Erika, a fifth-generation proprietor who offers hikers a warm welcome at the conclusion of their trek.

Canton Valais is not only the capital of après-ski; conquered by the Romans in 25 B.C.E., it’s also home to Switzerland’s largest concentration of ancient thermal baths, including popular spots like Brigerbad and Leukerbad. A lesser-known favorite is Les Bains de Saillon, a 45-minute drive from the Les 4 Vallées ski area (Switzerland’s largest), and home to a refurbished thermal-bath complex. There you can soak your muscles in bubbling waters while watching the pink Alpenglühen (Alpine glow) glide across the toothy summits. Its lengthy outdoor Rivière Thermale, aka lazy river, is lined with grottoes, steam rooms, and saunas, while physical and massage therapists remain at the ready indoors to help visitors recuperate from ski-related injuries—or simply to facilitate some indulgent pampering.

This easy, flat hike offers a chance to see one of the most scenic corners of Switzerland without the crowds. From Lauterbrunnen, take the funicular up to Grütschalp, where you’ll begin the 90-minute walk to the car-free village of Mürren. The hike roughly hugs the tracks of the tiny tourist train to Mürren, but it veers away frequently to quiet, wildflower-strewn Alpine meadows, cowbell-festooned chalets, and points with stunning views of a mighty trio of mountains—the glacier-chocked Jungfrau, Mönch, and Eiger.

This cherry-red, roller-coaster-like funicular train located in Canton Bern is a destination unto itself. It’s not only the steepest funicular in Europe, with a top gradient of 106 percent (that is, at an angle of 47 degrees), but it’s also one of the oldest, having been constructed in 1926 to transport engineers to a hydroelectric dam. (It only opened to the public in 2001.) The open-air cars add to the thrill of ascending 3,373 feet to reach an altitude of 6,069 feet.

Lucerne is no stranger to mass tourism: The otherwise lovely medieval city swells each summer with list-checking visitors en route to central Switzerland’s famed Pilatus and Titlis mountains. Surprisingly, few of them make the 15-minute trek from the train station to this gorgeous 19th-century badi (open-air swimming area) on the Lucerne National Quay, overlooking the clear blue waters of what the locals call the Vierwaldstätter See (aka Lake Lucerne). The entire facility was meticulously restored in 2010 and remains a favorite of residents for its excellent views of brooding, multi-horned Mount Pilatus, Jean Nouvel’s lakeside KKL performance hall, and Santiago Calatrava’s Lucerne Station Hall—and all without the hassle of tourists.

Feel the wind in your hair in this new double-decker cable car that is an engineering first: It has an open-air upper deck with room for 30 passengers. The cable car made its first run in 2010 and travels along 7,600 feet of track to reach a mountain station at a height of 6,070 feet, atop Mount Stanserhorn. The mountain sits smack-dab in the middle of Switzerland with views of the less-visited cantons (technically, demicantons) of Nidwalden and Obwalden.

Just a 10-minute walk to the village from the Samedan train station will bring you to one of the best soaks in Switzerland: the Mineralbad & Spa Samedan, a day spa designed in 2010 by husband-and-wife architects Miller & Maranta, who built this compact yet incredibly spacious spa into the village’s tiny 12th-century plaza. Inside, a maze of watery caverns and tiled tunnels flicker with light while two relaxation rooms paneled with a fragrant, endemic pine tree prized for its calming properties, allow guests to take a snooze between soaks. The open-air rooftop bath is discreetly nestled under the 400-year-old Reformed Church clock tower—so close that the glockenspiel bells cause ripples in the water when they chime. The steamy 100-degree pool is an ideal place from which to watch glints of gold flash on the spines of the Rhaetian Alps when the sun sets.

The 66-square-mile Swiss National Park is a completely unmanaged natural area that was founded in 1914, the first national park in the Alps and a rare undeveloped location in the Swiss German–speaking part of Switzerland—a corner of the world better known for ski resorts than nature reserves. Its ungroomed hiking trails offer opportunities to encounter Alpine wildlife like marmot, ibex, chamois, northern hares, and lizards, not to mention innumerable birds and wildflowers (many of which are sadly endangered and on IUCN’s Red List). Biologists here are doing some of Europe’s most important conservation and research work to help better understand Alpine flora and fauna that have experienced only minimal interaction with humans.

Earn your curds with the scenic alpine hike to Käserei Sittlisalp, a local cheese cooperative in a remote corner of Canton Uri. The easy 1.5-mile hike traverses a 60-minute loop that’s mostly flat with a steep descent. The gravel trail leads visitors to a hydroelectric-powered cheese dairy and shepherds’ cooperative maintained by nine local family farms. The staff speak English and will tell you about Switzerland’s AOC-protected Alpkäse, made with milk from cows grazing above 1,400 meters (4,593 feet) and rich in omega-3 fatty acids; the cheeses have an added bonus of subtle flavors of local wildflowers. The small shop sells hunks of mutschli nature cheese, tubs of local Alpine butter, and molke, a tangy whey drink especially popular with locals.

Poschiavo is one of the last stops along the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway before it descends towards Tirano, Italy. It’s also one of the few Italian-speaking villages in Switzerland outside of Canton Ticino. The seemingly untouched medieval town is a jolt back in time, with a full-on baroque piazza boasting a stone campanile and a museum stuffed with 16th-century furnishings and antiquities. Don’t leave without stopping for a nibble at its Wednesday market: Local specialties include pizzoccheri (a buckwheat pasta), burrata, local truffles, anise-flavored bread, wine from Campascio in the surrounding valley, and cheese from Caseficio Valposchiavo, a nearby organic dairy. The market is held every Wednesday on Poschiavo’s main piazza.

Switzerland only exports 1 to 2 percent of its wine production, so few know of its stony whites, which pair ideally with raw hard and melted Swiss cheeses. While most cantons make wine, there are few places better to sip Swiss wines than the UNESCO-listed Lavaux, dangling on the banks of Lake Geneva and 90 minutes north of the city in Canton Vaud. An e-bike is the best way to explore the steep hilly region peppered with slate-roofed chapels and chocolate-box villages. The grapes here were planted by 9th-century monks; the terraces they built for them are lined with stone walls that retain the sun’s heat, extending the grape-growing season. Unique varietals like ermitage, doral, and gamay, and ancient Lémanic reds like the Plant-Robert varietal, are grown only here. E-bike rentals can be picked up from most Swiss railway stations; Lausanne, 20 minutes away, is the closest. As with all wineries in Switzerland, calling ahead to arrange a visit is essential.

Up until 2004, Switzerland’s iconic furry friends—St. Bernard dogs—were bred at this monastery and hospice. While the canines have been relocated, the Great St. Bernard Hospice, which sits on a barren, treeless plane at 8,100 feet, is still an active monastery run by Augustinian monks. The steep four-mile ascent from the valley is a killer on foot, but still doable—on groomed trails in summer and on snowshoes in winter. Inside, monks greet you and show you to communal tables in the stone dining hall where vegetable soups are served with hunks of Bagnes cheese, thick slices of brown bread, and honey-sweetened tea (or a carafe of red Dôle wine produced in the Valais region just below, which seems to be the more popular option). Don’t miss the odd museum, displaying local taxidermy, ancient coins, and maps once used for Alpine crossings; the 800-year-old crypt is allegedly stuffed with the bodies of ancient travelers who didn’t survive the journey. A register of “Les passants célèbres” includes Charlemagne, Napoleon, and Alexandré Dumas but omits Charles Dickens, who lived nearby for a summer.

The Swiss-born modernist giant was many things: architect, painter, sculptor, graphic artist, furniture designer, and writer. This museum, also known as the Centre Le Corbusier, is located in the Zürichhorn park, and offers a chance to view examples of his work across all these realms—the most striking of which is the building itself, Le Corbusier’s last, a steel-and-glass masterpiece marked by multicolored enameled panels.

Ascona, on the shores of Lake Maggiore, has swaying palm trees and a mild climate, and is Switzerland‘s lowest-lying town (643 feet above sea level). The lakeside promenade (Lungolago) offers a Mediterranean feel with streetside cafés, warm breezes, and diners clinking wineglasses—all with a backdrop of historic 19th-century merchants’ houses. The town, a former fishing village, has become an upscale resort town—known for its water sports as well as some of the best hotels in the country. Ascona’s old town center, the Borgo, is a warren of charming alleyways and chic boutiques.

Switzerland has 12 UNESCO World Heritage sites, and the Old Town of Bern was among the first to receive that recognition. You’ll understand why when you stroll along the postcard-perfect Kramgasse, the main axis of the area. At the end of it you’ll find the Zytglogge, the clock tower that is one of the city’s most recognizable symbols. Built on a hill above a bend in the Aare River, the Old Town of Bern has a medieval street plan, though most of the current buildings were constructed in gray sandstone after a fire at the beginning of the 15th century. Miles of arcades wait to be explored—and don’t miss three streets that UNESCO highlighted as among the most characteristic in the area: Postgasse, Gerechtigkeitsgasse, and Junkerngasse.

According to legend, Zurich’s most iconic landmark was commissioned by Charlemagne. While Fraumünster, across the Limmat, draws onlookers with its stained-glass windows by Chagall, Grossmünster recently acquired destination-worthy art of its own: German artist Sigmar Polke’s beautiful, kaleidoscopic motifs featuring Old Testament figures, installed in 2009. Photo © Christian Beutler/Zürich Tourismus.

The Abbey of Saint Gall is one of eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Switzerland, a monastery was first established at the site in the eighth century though the magnificent buildings that are one of the world’s outstanding examples of Baroque and Rococo architecture date from 1755 to 1768. The library, which houses one of Europe’s largest collection of medieval works, was designed by the Austrian architect Peter Thumb and is all polished wood and painted stucco.

“What wisdom can you find that is greater than kindness?” So said local philosopher and writer Jean-Jacques Rousseau, a statue of whom oversees his namesake island, a wee, romantic spot in the middle of the Rhone where it empties into Lake Geneva. The island-park may be served by two bridges, but it feels like a universe of its own and is a favorite of many visitors and locals in Geneva. The tranquil tree-lined island was once a 16th-century fortification that protected the city, then the site of a bustling shipyard before finally being transformed to a peaceful sanctuary in 1832, when the Pont des Bergues bridge was constructed. (The Pont des Bergues ends across from the 1834 Hotel des Bergues, which was the first meeting place of the United Nations and is now a Four Seasons Hotel.)

Scores of sci-fi geeks, space gazers, and physicists worship this iconic particle physics lab. Founded in 1954, CERN (Conseil Européen pour la Recherche Nucléaire) is located just five miles (8 km) west of Geneva and is open to the public. The lab’s main attraction is the Large Hadron Collider, a particle accelerator that shoots protons around an almost 17-mile (27 km) circular tube, which in turn creates new matter. Other permanent exhibitsl emphasize CERN’s current projects. Two-hour guided tours in English require advance reservations up to 15 days ahead and require a photo ID.

These beloved baths are not just the site of a favorite swimming beach on Lake Geneva; they are a local institution. The baths are busiest in summer when the lake teems with swimmers and boats, but also stay active and open in winter months when local Polar Bear Club members plunge into the icy Alps-fed lake. After the bracing jump, it feels divine to warm up in the bath’s two mixed-sex saunas, and two hammams (one for women only). The facility is fully equipped with lockers, hot showers, and hair-dryers, as well as nooks in front of the large glass windows for soaking up the sun. Les Bains are also home to one of the city’s best fondue spots, La Buvette des Bains. Every September, after the summer season, some locker rooms are converted to a cozy dining room with wood stoves where diners dip bread into steamy melted cheese concoctions, and even take in a cultural performance or lecture on certain nights.