Hawai‘i

More than 2,000 miles from the nearest continent (North America), Hawai‘i has always lured travelers seeking paradise in the Pacific. Polynesian explorers first paddled into the islands between 300 and 500 CE. Following centuries of civilization, the Hawai‘ians first met Europeans in 1778—sparking a story whose ultimate end was American statehood in 1959. Tourism is now the state’s largest industry, and most travelers are familiar with stock photos of hula, leis, and surfboards. But as with most idylls, there’s much more to discover beyond the pages of glossy brochures.

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Photo by Kyle Johnson

Overview

Beaches

Eight major islands comprise the Hawai‘ian archipelago, meaning there’s coastline in abundance and a beach for everyone. Adventurers skirt the edges of Kaua‘i’s Napali Coast by kayak. Sun worshipers lounge around lazy Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu and on Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, where the sun feels so close it’s hard to believe you’re at sea level. Beaches like Punaluu Beach on the Big Island—with its black sand—and the Red Sand Beach on Maui reward day-trippers with their psychedelic scenery. Meanwhile, the gravity-defying waves of the Banzai Pipeline hurl themselves against O‘ahu’s North Shore in winter, and the churning surf of nearby Waimea Bay seems like it can’t be made of the same gentle stuff that kisses the coast off Lāna‘i.

Away from the Beach

Rings of coastline protect each island’s heart, and it’s well worth leaving the beach to explore inland. On the Big Island, travelers dip into the Waipio Valley—scooped out of the island’s north side—or summit the Mauna Kea volcano at twilight to touch the stars above. On Oʻahu, hikers scale the Koko Head Crater or follow trails of rainbows dancing above the lush Manoa Valley. No matter where they are based, visitors seeking to learn more about the archipelago have options for various guided tours. Paniolo Adventures, for example, guides horseback rides that offer views of the coastline, volcanoes, and ancient historical sites.

When’s the best time to go to Hawai‘i?

With great weather throughout the year, there’s no bad time to visit Hawaiʻi. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the islands.

Food and drink to try in Hawai‘i

The bounty of land and sea is evident in Hawaiʻi’s cuisine, which shows South Pacific, Asian, and even Portuguese influences. Roy’s, a popular restaurant located on three islands, serves blackened ahi and macadamia nut-crusted opah, while Yama’s Fish Market in Honolulu presents numerous appetizers and simple staples like beef stew. Humble roadside stands serve lau lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf) or poke (seafood tartare). Hawaiʻian hospitality has been exported in a glass via the mai tai and lava flow cocktails. For something sweet, try a deep-fried malasada doughnut from Leonard’s Bakery in Honolulu, a chocolate haupia cream pie from Ted’s Bakery on Sunset Beach, or a syrupy shave ice from the famous Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa.

Culture in Hawai‘i

Hawaiʻi was colonized by Polynesians and has long drawn visitors from Asia, Oceania, and North America. The ‘Iolani Palace—where Hawaiʻi’s last royal family lived and ruled—should be the first stop for anyone interested in the islands’ heritage. Across the street, the historic Ali’iolani Hale building was featured on the TV series Hawaii Five-0. Also check out the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, where fascinating artifacts range from ancient weapons to the feathered cloak of King Kamehameha I. To this day, the islands’ varied influences are united by the uniquely Hawaiʻian spirit of aloha.

How to get around Hawai‘i

Most domestic and international arrivals land in Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air, and Mokulele Airlines operate inter-island flights. The islands are large enough to make a car rental worthwhile. If you plan to stay in one place, taxis and shuttles are easy to arrange.

Practical Information

Credit cards are not accepted everywhere, so travelers should carry some cash when shopping. A 15–20 percent tip is standard for restaurant bills, 15 percent for taxi fares, and $1–2 per bag handled at a hotel. Tips for tours start at $5 and increase based on tour length. Outlets are 110 volt.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
From the dingy exterior, you might expect Little Village Noodle House to be a hole-in-the-wall, but it’s surprisingly cute and nicely decorated inside, with fountains, decorative woodwork, and nice tables and chairs. The chef’s special fried rice is justifiably a signature dish: piled high with pork, shrimp, duck, egg, and other goodies. The orange chicken was intensely citrusy with lots of orange flavor — but not that gross, sickly-sweet syrupy coating that usually makes the dish a soggy mess. Lunch items are around $10-12, and portions are decent, though not huge. Considering the unexpectedly fancy decor and fast, friendly service, this is a great choice for a meal in Honolulu‘s Chinatown.
My favorite part about living in Hawaii is the view from where I live. I am tremendously blessed to have the spectacular ‘perch’ that I do looking over Diamondhead, Waikiki, Honolulu, and past the airport to Ko’olina. If you are looking to see such a spectacular view of Southern Oahu, drive up Round Top Drive to Pu’u Ualaka’a State Park for sunset. You will find a large grassy area to share a picnic or lay back and watch the clouds roll by. Or you can stand up a bit higher at the lookout and identify all the places and roads you have been while in Honolulu. If hiking is more your style, there are plenty of trails up on this scenic route as well. Or, perhaps, you will just enjoy the curly queues and hairpins of the the Tantalus-Round Top Drive loop. No matter what you do, it is a refreshing reprieve from the busy scene in Waikiki!
If you’re in Oahu’s North Shore area, stop for lunch at Fumi’s Kahuku Shrimp truck — it’s the one with a mural of a gigantic, rearing shrimp. They’re not rock-bottom cheap, but you get a lot for your money; $13 gets you a plate piled high with fat, juicy shrimp dripping with garlic butter, two big scoops of rice, and a (skippable) salad. Seating is outdoor-only on plastic tables and chairs, but it’s probably the best option for these messy, delicious peel-and-eat shrimp. The pond where they farm their shrimp is right next to where the truck is parked, so you can’t get any fresher than that!
Tucked among the pristine rain forests of Kauai’s remote North Shore, Princeville Resort’s lush 9,000 acres feel like they’re straight out of South Pacific. In fact, the classic musical used neighboring Mount Makana as a stand-in for Bali Hai. The peak’s verdant slopes are visible from many of the property’s 251 rooms, which are clad in ocean- and floral-inspired hues and outfitted with custom wood furnishings and marble baths, but the real draws lie elsewhere on the property: in the private snorkeling beach and massive infinity pool overlooking the cerulean waters of Hanalei Bay, an 11,000-square-foot spa that specializes in traditional Hawaiian clay treatments, and a world-class golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr.
Why I was so surprised to find a food truck in the village of Volcano outside of Volcano National Park, I’m not sure. All I know is that it was one of the many culinary surprises on the Big Island. This truck was packed with all kinds of wonderful things, and almost all of it was healthy too. If you can find it, and I have no way of telling you where they will be parked, ask for the special drink they mix up daily, I think it has ginger it in, but they’ll know what you mean. The company is called Higher Taste Vegetarian Cafe, and this truck was parked outside of the Rainforest Gallery at Niaulani near Volcano Village. That’s the best I can do, but then again, finding the truck is half the fun!
Visible from anywhere in Kailua-Kaneohe are the three peaks of Mount Olomana. The majestic peaks are named after a mythical Hawaiian warrior and offers more than spectacular views from all angles. To reach your destination from Honolulu you take the Pali through the Kalanionaole Highway and look out for the Luana Hills Country Club. You can park right outside of the club as the entrance to the hike is just a quarter mile from the entrance. The peaks are challenging, with steep drop-offs and some rock climbing, and are only for experienced hikers. The first peak offers the highest views and the third is the most dangerous of all the peaks. Make sure you do your research and talk to locals about likely conditions. That said, it’s been my favorite hike on Oahu so far and it offers unforgettable views of the city. Bring some snack and water with you to sit atop one of the peaks and have a quick picnic.
What’s Shakin’ is a fantastic local food spot located outside of Hilo, on the Big Island, along what is labeled the ‘Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive.’ They are known for their fresher-than-fresh smoothies, but also boast a menu that’ll appease even the hungriest of visitors. Walk up to the window, order up some grub, and then sit at the picnic benches and enjoy the afternoon as the friendly staff prepares your order. We ate here on the first and last day of our visit, it’s really that good.
In an island area of West Maui that draws many transplants and seasonal employees, Dale Simonson’s longevity at 40 years behind a bar is amazing. But top that with his expertise at making tropical drinks and his friendly attitude and the Tiki Bar may just become your favorite Maui hang-out too. Dale is said to know all of his world-wide visitors by name and some will make certain he’ll be manning his tropical “ libation- station” before they book their Maui vacation at the very Hawaiian Ka’anapali Beach Hotel. Here is his recipe for the popular Blue Hawaii: · 14 oz. Hurricane glass · 3 oz. ice in hurricane glass · 1 ½ oz. Vodka · 2 oz. Sweet & Sour mix · 3 oz. Pineapple Juice · Top with 1 ½ oz. Blue Curacao Dont forget the umbrella and floating orchid!
Swift streams and waterfalls continue to carve these vertiginous and rugged valleys as they pour into the sea. One of the most stunning wilderness areas on earth, it also contains ancient Hawaiian ruins of graves, temples, house platforms, and terraced fields. The fear factor increases past the initial two-mile path to Hanakāpīʻai Beach (best visited in summertime, as winter swells tend to wash it away). Only experienced hikers in good condition and with proper gear should venture further along the famous 11-mile Kalalau Trail. Check for path and park closures before making plans and don’t forget the $20/night permit to crash at a campsite. However long you trek, stay on the main path and pack out what you brought in.
The newly refurbished Sheraton Kona Keauhou Bay Resort is stylish, with a large pool and water slide. But it was the history and the view from the hotel (located off the famous Ali’i Drive) that won me over. The hotel gives you an excellent vantage point to the bay around which King Kamehameha III was born (stillborn, as legend has it). He grew up to become Hawai’i’s powerful and benevolent ruler, and sought to unite the people. He called The Big Island his home and is beloved by many. The hotel offers several notable cultural markers, including two heiau (Hawaiian temple) replicas.