Hawai‘i

More than 2,000 miles from the nearest continent (North America), Hawai‘i has always lured travelers seeking paradise in the Pacific. Polynesian explorers first paddled into the islands between 300 and 500 CE. Following centuries of civilization, the Hawai‘ians first met Europeans in 1778—sparking a story whose ultimate end was American statehood in 1959. Tourism is now the state’s largest industry, and most travelers are familiar with stock photos of hula, leis, and surfboards. But as with most idylls, there’s much more to discover beyond the pages of glossy brochures.

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Photo by Kyle Johnson

Overview

Beaches

Eight major islands comprise the Hawai‘ian archipelago, meaning there’s coastline in abundance and a beach for everyone. Adventurers skirt the edges of Kaua‘i’s Napali Coast by kayak. Sun worshipers lounge around lazy Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu and on Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, where the sun feels so close it’s hard to believe you’re at sea level. Beaches like Punaluu Beach on the Big Island—with its black sand—and the Red Sand Beach on Maui reward day-trippers with their psychedelic scenery. Meanwhile, the gravity-defying waves of the Banzai Pipeline hurl themselves against O‘ahu’s North Shore in winter, and the churning surf of nearby Waimea Bay seems like it can’t be made of the same gentle stuff that kisses the coast off Lāna‘i.

Away from the Beach

Rings of coastline protect each island’s heart, and it’s well worth leaving the beach to explore inland. On the Big Island, travelers dip into the Waipio Valley—scooped out of the island’s north side—or summit the Mauna Kea volcano at twilight to touch the stars above. On Oʻahu, hikers scale the Koko Head Crater or follow trails of rainbows dancing above the lush Manoa Valley. No matter where they are based, visitors seeking to learn more about the archipelago have options for various guided tours. Paniolo Adventures, for example, guides horseback rides that offer views of the coastline, volcanoes, and ancient historical sites.

When’s the best time to go to Hawai‘i?

With great weather throughout the year, there’s no bad time to visit Hawaiʻi. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the islands.

Food and drink to try in Hawai‘i

The bounty of land and sea is evident in Hawaiʻi’s cuisine, which shows South Pacific, Asian, and even Portuguese influences. Roy’s, a popular restaurant located on three islands, serves blackened ahi and macadamia nut-crusted opah, while Yama’s Fish Market in Honolulu presents numerous appetizers and simple staples like beef stew. Humble roadside stands serve lau lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf) or poke (seafood tartare). Hawaiʻian hospitality has been exported in a glass via the mai tai and lava flow cocktails. For something sweet, try a deep-fried malasada doughnut from Leonard’s Bakery in Honolulu, a chocolate haupia cream pie from Ted’s Bakery on Sunset Beach, or a syrupy shave ice from the famous Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa.

Culture in Hawai‘i

Hawaiʻi was colonized by Polynesians and has long drawn visitors from Asia, Oceania, and North America. The ‘Iolani Palace—where Hawaiʻi’s last royal family lived and ruled—should be the first stop for anyone interested in the islands’ heritage. Across the street, the historic Ali’iolani Hale building was featured on the TV series Hawaii Five-0. Also check out the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, where fascinating artifacts range from ancient weapons to the feathered cloak of King Kamehameha I. To this day, the islands’ varied influences are united by the uniquely Hawaiʻian spirit of aloha.

How to get around Hawai‘i

Most domestic and international arrivals land in Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air, and Mokulele Airlines operate inter-island flights. The islands are large enough to make a car rental worthwhile. If you plan to stay in one place, taxis and shuttles are easy to arrange.

Practical Information

Credit cards are not accepted everywhere, so travelers should carry some cash when shopping. A 15–20 percent tip is standard for restaurant bills, 15 percent for taxi fares, and $1–2 per bag handled at a hotel. Tips for tours start at $5 and increase based on tour length. Outlets are 110 volt.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
As its name suggests, this strip mall gem near Kahului Airport celebrates all things poi, a Polynesian staple made by steaming and mashing the cooked stem of a kalo (taro) plant. Come here for takeout or be prepared to wait a bit—the rib-sticking fare is quite popular with locals. Must-try dishes include ramen garnished with green onions, kimchi fried rice, and the lau lau plate featuring pork wrapped in taro leaves and slow steamed to perfection. Most menu items come with poi, but you can also opt to try it in a poke bowl or on its own as a side dish. The setting here may be modest, but nothing beats it for an authentic Hawaiian meal.
With its thatched roof, bamboo bar, and surfboard decor, this beloved watering hole—often voted Maui’s best bar by locals—checks all the tiki boxes. Head here for live music, lanai seating, and late-night dancing, plus fun and fruity rum cocktails like mai tais, zombies, daiquiris, and piña coladas. Beyond its drinks, South Shore Tiki Lounge was recognized by the state of Hawaii as an outstanding business for its regular fund-raising efforts, which benefit local organizations like the Keiki Cupboard, Hawaii Wildlife Fund, Maui Humane Society, and Hawaii Animal Rescue Foundation. All that to say, you can feel good coming here to wash down a massive chili-cheese hot dog with a lychee-watermelon martini.
At this stunning restaurant in the Grand Wailea Maui, Lahaina-born chef Alvin Savella wows diners with bright flavors and striking plating. Start with appetizers like Cantonese barbecue-style char siu pork belly, squid ink bao, and ulu (breadfruit) risotto with nasturtiums, then move on to impressive mains like lobster ramen in red miso–coconut broth and free-range huli huli chicken with garlic fried rice and charred pineapple relish. Set in a lagoon, the round, thatched-roof restaurant—named for Hawaii’s state fish, the humuhumunukunukuapuaa—offers spectacular sunset views, so plan your dinner accordingly.
Hilo-born Sheldon Simeon realized the appeal of his soulful, heritage-based cooking as a finalist on season 10 of Top Chef. Once back in Hawaii, he opened the upscale Lineage in Wailea, where he’s earned a loyal fan base for dishes like kimchi dip, fried turkey tail adobo, and squid luau with creamed taro leaf. Cocktails here are equally creative, ranging from a mai tai made with banana milk punch, Earl Grey tea, raisins, and coconut to a cucumber vodka number garnished with huli huli chicken skin. Whatever you order, be sure to pair it with the chili pepper water, a condiment and digestive aid that’s served in a take-home flask.
Lahaina, with its many Victorian flourishes, may look picturesque today, but the port town teemed with sailors, gamblers, and prostitutes in the 19th century. The Pioneer Inn changed all that when it opened for business in 1901, foreshadowing the tourist industry that would ultimately replace whaling, sugar, and pineapples. Step through the swinging doors of this vintage bar, which now bizarrely anchors the courtyard of a Best Western, and you’ll be transported back in time. Oars, harpoons, and a ship’s figurehead still adorn the space, looking down on platters of coconut shrimp, Parmesan-crusted fish over coconut rice, and margaritas made with POG (a mix of passion fruit, orange, and guava juices). Come during happy hour, which runs daily from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., for discounted beers and cocktails.
Maui’s quiet town of Wailuku is home to some of the world’s most artful doughnuts. The owner of Donut Dynamite!, who goes by her nom de cuisine “Madame Donut,” started the business as a food truck. In 2016, she opened this brick-and-mortar location after she won the “Backyard Barbecue” episode of the Cooking Channel’s Sugar Showdown. Trained at the Culinary Institute of America, she brings a high-concept approach to her signature sweets, with standout flavors including bacon-maple, cheesy hammy, and a lush purple number featuring Molokai sweet potato and poi (a Native Hawaiian staple made from taro roots). Don’t miss the legendary Cinnamon Toasty Crunchy, topped with finely diced croutons made in-house, and be sure to get to the shop early—it opens at 6 a.m. and often starts running low on doughnuts by 9 a.m.
Founded in 2015 by three childhood friends from Georgia, Down the Hatch brings a Southern twist to the aloha spirit. The classic watering hole serves shrimp po’boys, chicken and waffles, and Mexican-inspired fare like seared ahi tacos, but the real draw is the cocktails, which range from tiki favorites and Moscow Mules to craft libations like the Snake Oil with gin, dragon fruit, lilikoi kombucha, and CBD oil. Featured on Guy Fieri’s Food Network show Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, Down the Hatch also boasts the longest happy hour in Maui. It takes place daily from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. and features specials on appetizers, draft beers, and select cocktails.
Fleetwood Mac front man Mick Fleetwood is behind this bar and restaurant, located on a third-floor rooftop in Lahaina. Here, guests sip drinks under beige umbrellas while taking in views of the dreamy blue Pacific. To pair with award-winning cocktails like the Heart of the Jungle (Cynar, Velvet Falernum, coconut rum, and lemon juice), which comes in a tiki artichoke, executive chef Eric Morrissette serves a menu of elevated bar bites, fresh local fish, and meatier dishes like filet mignon with peppercorn reduction. If you’re not a cocktail person, know that the robust drink menu also features beers from Maui Brewing Co. and Kohola Brewing as well as exclusive wines like Krug Brut from Reims, Luberri Gran Reserva rioja, and even a Chateau Musar red blend from Lebanon.
This elegant bar at the Andaz Maui overlooks tiers of pools, waterfalls, and tropical foliage, all cascading down to the Wailea coast. Hotel guests and visitors alike come here to lounge under umbrellas by day and around a fire pit by night, sipping on cocktails like the Upcountry Buck (white rum, ginger, and pineapple) and the Lahaina Town Fizz (blanco tequila, strawberry, and elderflower). For something unique, try the Silversword, a cocktail designed by legendary Hawaiian mixologist Julie Reiner that features mezcal, sweet vermouth, pineapple, and chocolate bitters. Pair it with snacks like chilled shrimp summer rolls and Thai lettuce wraps, then finish with a ginger ice cream sandwich made in-house.
Set within the 24-acre oasis of Montage Kapalua Bay, this pop-up bar and lounge pairs Veuve Clicquot Champagne with Maui’s world-class sunsets. Open Thursday through Sunday from 3:30 p.m. to 7 p.m., the Champagne Hale (pronounced HAH-leh, which is the Hawaiian word for house) serves a range of bubbly, from Veuve’s signature Yellow Label, Rosé, and La Grande Dame labels to special Rich and Rich Rosé offerings, available for the first time on the island. Pair your sips with light bites like Kualoa Ranch oysters, bigeye tuna tartare, and burrata toast with pickled strawberries and pistachio pesto, then take in the views as the sun goes down over the Pacific. From the bar’s clifftop perch above Namalu Bay, you’ll enjoy stunning vistas of the ocean as well as Molokai and Lanai islands in the distance.