Italy

Italy is the seat of modern civilization, with an unrivaled storehouse of Renaissance art and home to some of the world’s most popular foods. Whether you go for the art, the food and wine, or the ancient history (or all of the above), you’ll find so much more—from the hustle of Naples’ streets to the gently rolling hills of Umbria to the coastal delicacies of Liguria.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Italy?

A summer spent wandering Italy can keep all those carb pounds in check because the temperatures in most of the country reaches into the 80’s. But since Italians take most of August off for their own vacations, lots of places are closed and the vitality of the country is transferred to the beaches. So, head to the peninsula in the spring or fall. Both are peak culinary seasons with a riot of vegetables appearing from April into June and the wonder of mushrooms and the wine harvest from September well into November.

How to get around Italy

The country’s main airports are in Milan and Rome. Over the past few years, airlines like Norwegian and Turkish Air have run outrageous deals if you fly through their hubs so if you can find a short hop into Italy from Oslo or Istanbul, it may be well worth the discount. Also look for airlines like SAS, KLM, and Swiss.

Italy has a very well developed and fairly reliable rail system that will get you to most towns of note without much delay but the rise of budget airlines means that flying between cities can be just as cheap. But if you want to tour the countryside you’ll still need a rental car.

Food and drink to try in Italy

Italy is a legendary culinary destination for a reason. There are plenty of tourist traps but the whole country is swimming in great wine, an exploding craft brewing scene, and a variety of creative culinary feats—with a focus on quality ingredients. In Italy you’ll find a culture that takes food seriously; don’t miss your opportunity to partake in specialties as well known as Parmesan cheese and Chianti wine or the local specialties of every small town and region. Slow Food has an excellent set of guides and seeing the distinctive snail logo in shop and restaurant windows is a positive cue.

Culture in Italy

Rome is the obvious starting point for culture vultures because it’s drenched in ancient, medieval, papal, and modern history. But Italy also has a tremendous musical footprint that comes alive most vividly in opera. Milan and Venice contain two of the greatest opera houses in the world in La Scala and La Fenice, respectively. Most cities of note, like Bologna and Palermo, contain dynamic opera houses which thrive on repertory and contemporary experiments.

Check out Siena’s summer Palio, a medieval horse race around the city’s central piazza. It’s full of pomp and fanfare—but go prepared, not an ounce of it is sanitized; jockeys are regularly injured, horses even more so. A similar race is held annually in Asti. In Venice, the annual carnival is enticing fun, with all those masks and Baroque plays. And the Venice Biennale, every two years, is a must-see for contemporary art lovers. Don’t forget that Italy is mad for soccer, so if you’re there during the regular season (roughly September through May), seek out a game to experience all the passion and fraternity. It’s even better when events like the European Cup or World Cup are being played; every bar or café will be full of fans.

Local travel tips for Italy

Major cultural institutions like the Uffizi and Borghese Gallery require reserved tickets. Make sure to buy tickets to major institutions well in advance. August is one big national holiday, when the entire country decamps for the beach, mountains, or foreign vacations. It can be fun to play in the sand with Italians but if you want to experience the country in all its glory, plan to avoid that month.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Looking to have an authentic old-world barbershop experience? If so, come visit the tiny (only 10 total square meters!) Barbiere near the ancient port. Originally opened in 1882, the barber shop was renovated by the owner’s son in 1922 to the art deco appeal of the era - and remains untouched today. From the chairs, to the tools, to the telephone, stepping into this barber shop is truly a step back in time - and you can leave with a stellar shave, as well!
Founded in 1867, Cafe Mangini is a gorgeous homage to the literary and artistic ‘salons’ of Genoa‘s past: stucco ceilings, art-nouveau mirrors, and a checkerboard floor that has lasted for nearly 150 years. Located at the end of the beautiful shopping street, Via Roma, Cafe Mangini offers a beautiful setting for a delicious post-shopping cappuccino, especially when paired with a slice of crostata pinoli (a pine nut and almond paste tart).
As most of the museums in Genoa focus on art of the Middle Ages and/or Renaissance, it is nice every now and then to find options that feel slightly more ‘modern’. Head to the Villa Croce (just a 15 minute walk from the old town) for the interesting juxtaposition of contemporary art installations in a very historical building. If you come on a Sunday, the visit is free - and you can also see all the dogs of Genoa enjoying a morning outing in the park that surrounds the Villa. Don’t miss the upstairs gallery space - the exhibit by Jackie Saccoccio is breathtaking.
Set down a small alley just a few meters from Piazza San Lorenzo, the art gallery Il Vicolo is a lovely spot to browse, and purchase, contemporary art in the ancient city. One of the oldest galleries in town, Il Vicolo routinely changes their artistic focus - thus one can come back often for pieces and exhibits from new, well-followed, and even young emerging artists.
Through the end of June, the Museo di Sant’Agostino hosts a fascinating exhibit on the Machines of Leonardo DaVinci - including his bicycle, the air screw, and a massive interpretation of one of his earliest gliders. Housing in a converted monastery, the building itself is also a lovely space to visit the 16th and 17th century paintings and sculptures on permanent display.
While you can never go wrong with a tried and true cone of pistacchio e nocciola (pistachio and hazelnut) gelato, opt instead for one (or two or six) of the small ‘bicchierini’ here at Gelateria Excelsa for a few bites of different delicious flavors! The chocolate are exceptional - as are any of the ones with ‘frutti di bosco’ (red fruits like strawberry, cherry, and plum).
Built on the foundations of a 16th century fortification, the Museo delle Culture del Mondo is housed in the 19th century Castello D’Albertis - the private home of the global traveler and collector of antiquities. Veer off the standard art/church museum trail, and up the massive staircase to the Castello, to see a beautifully preserved piece of Genovese history (and some super fascinating collections of global interest). While the walk is quite the hike, the view from the top floor library of the museum is stunning.
Nestled among the stunning palaces of the UNESCO World Heritage Palazzi Dei Rolli, Palazzo Bianco was built in the late 16th century by the Grimaldi family, one of the 28 ‘albergi’ families that ruled Genoa for centuries. Today, the gorgeous building houses an art museum focusing primarily on Flemish and Italian artists, with a strong emphasis on Genovese artists themselves. But do not miss the opportunity to stroll out into the gardens. They are magnificent anytime of year, but especially beautiful in early spring.
Board a boat in the old harbor of Porto Antico and spend the day in the Italian sunshine observing the natural habitat of the International Cetacean Sanctuary. In four hours, and with the help of the onboard marine biologist, you are likely to spot families of dolphins, larger whales, and even migrating sea turtles.
Caffe degli Specchi has a wonderfully warm feeling inside, so it’s easy to feel comfortable sliding up to the bar and standing with the locals while you drink your morning cappuccino. Or, take your time enjoying your drink on the wooden porch out front while overlooking the crowds moving towards work in the small piazza below. Either way, the coffee here is rich and dark, so make sure you ask for ‘zucchero’ if you like yours slightly sweeter!