Located in the nether reaches of the Oltrarno, this lively, up-market trattoria serves up Tuscan cuisine (plus a few fish dishes) with a bit of a twist. Try the sublime fillet of beef in a rich, vin santo reduction or the padella di mare, a spicy seafood stew served straight from its frying pan. Desserts are delicious and there is a long and varied wine list. The lunch menu is much simpler and prices are lower. If you've had enough of the tourist hoardes, this is a good place to escape them!