It was the sardine chips that sealed the deal: When Rich Table opened, these fried potato chips with sardine fillets threaded through were all the food media wanted to talk about. Salty, fishy, crispy: a flavor trifecta that won Evan and Sarah Rich—who had trained at Coi, Quince, and Bouley—a diehard following. The chips may have lured San Francisco's sardine-curious masses, but there is plenty more to keep everyone happy. The Riches cook food that's intriguing yet approachable, with a flair for balancing textures and flavors. It's surprising food that makes you think—but not so hard that it seems like work to eat here. A chilled summer soup of yellow squash and peaches, topped with puffed quinoa, for example: Would you think to make that? I wouldn't. It's hard to get a reservation here, but arrive early and you might win a spot.