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Aux Deux Amis

45 Rue Oberkampf
| +33 1 58 30 38 13
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Apéro Hour at Aux Deux Amis Paris  France
Apéro Hour at Aux Deux Amis Paris  France
Apéro Hour at Aux Deux Amis Paris  France
Apéro Hour at Aux Deux Amis Paris  France

Apéro Hour at Aux Deux Amis

When I first moved to the 11th arrondissement, rue Oberkampf hadn't yet shaken off the vestiges of its grungy, working-class past and was lined mostly with dive bars, ethnic take-away joints and merchants (fishmongers, cheese-mongers, florists, etc.). Once a new bakery set up shop, the older one on the block underwent renovations to compete. From there, a chocolate shop settled in, then a couple of independent boutiques and wine shops. The area's ascent from up-and-coming to wholly established and eminently cool was a rapid one. But my favorite transformation occurred at Aux Deux Amis, a dive bar that used to be a magnet for retired old men who camped out at the bar starting at 9 a.m. for a morning of drinking. Cigarette butts coated the tiled floor until the end of the day when the owner swept them into the trash. It has since been taken over by a young crew who maintained the throwback decor but evolved the concept into a natural wine bar with fresh small plates. My favorite time to go is around 6 p.m. for an apéro with a plate of whatever cheese they have on hand. Snag a spot out on the terrace if you can.