Hawai‘i

More than 2,000 miles from the nearest continent (North America), Hawai‘i has always lured travelers seeking paradise in the Pacific. Polynesian explorers first paddled into the islands between 300 and 500 CE. Following centuries of civilization, the Hawai‘ians first met Europeans in 1778—sparking a story whose ultimate end was American statehood in 1959. Tourism is now the state’s largest industry, and most travelers are familiar with stock photos of hula, leis, and surfboards. But as with most idylls, there’s much more to discover beyond the pages of glossy brochures.

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Photo by Kyle Johnson

Overview

Beaches

Eight major islands comprise the Hawai‘ian archipelago, meaning there’s coastline in abundance and a beach for everyone. Adventurers skirt the edges of Kaua‘i’s Napali Coast by kayak. Sun worshipers lounge around lazy Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu and on Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, where the sun feels so close it’s hard to believe you’re at sea level. Beaches like Punaluu Beach on the Big Island—with its black sand—and the Red Sand Beach on Maui reward day-trippers with their psychedelic scenery. Meanwhile, the gravity-defying waves of the Banzai Pipeline hurl themselves against O‘ahu’s North Shore in winter, and the churning surf of nearby Waimea Bay seems like it can’t be made of the same gentle stuff that kisses the coast off Lāna‘i.

Away from the Beach

Rings of coastline protect each island’s heart, and it’s well worth leaving the beach to explore inland. On the Big Island, travelers dip into the Waipio Valley—scooped out of the island’s north side—or summit the Mauna Kea volcano at twilight to touch the stars above. On Oʻahu, hikers scale the Koko Head Crater or follow trails of rainbows dancing above the lush Manoa Valley. No matter where they are based, visitors seeking to learn more about the archipelago have options for various guided tours. Paniolo Adventures, for example, guides horseback rides that offer views of the coastline, volcanoes, and ancient historical sites.

When’s the best time to go to Hawai‘i?

With great weather throughout the year, there’s no bad time to visit Hawaiʻi. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the islands.

Food and drink to try in Hawai‘i

The bounty of land and sea is evident in Hawaiʻi’s cuisine, which shows South Pacific, Asian, and even Portuguese influences. Roy’s, a popular restaurant located on three islands, serves blackened ahi and macadamia nut-crusted opah, while Yama’s Fish Market in Honolulu presents numerous appetizers and simple staples like beef stew. Humble roadside stands serve lau lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf) or poke (seafood tartare). Hawaiʻian hospitality has been exported in a glass via the mai tai and lava flow cocktails. For something sweet, try a deep-fried malasada doughnut from Leonard’s Bakery in Honolulu, a chocolate haupia cream pie from Ted’s Bakery on Sunset Beach, or a syrupy shave ice from the famous Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa.

Culture in Hawai‘i

Hawaiʻi was colonized by Polynesians and has long drawn visitors from Asia, Oceania, and North America. The ‘Iolani Palace—where Hawaiʻi’s last royal family lived and ruled—should be the first stop for anyone interested in the islands’ heritage. Across the street, the historic Ali’iolani Hale building was featured on the TV series Hawaii Five-0. Also check out the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, where fascinating artifacts range from ancient weapons to the feathered cloak of King Kamehameha I. To this day, the islands’ varied influences are united by the uniquely Hawaiʻian spirit of aloha.

How to get around Hawai‘i

Most domestic and international arrivals land in Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air, and Mokulele Airlines operate inter-island flights. The islands are large enough to make a car rental worthwhile. If you plan to stay in one place, taxis and shuttles are easy to arrange.

Practical Information

Credit cards are not accepted everywhere, so travelers should carry some cash when shopping. A 15–20 percent tip is standard for restaurant bills, 15 percent for taxi fares, and $1–2 per bag handled at a hotel. Tips for tours start at $5 and increase based on tour length. Outlets are 110 volt.

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Separating the islands of Maui and Molokai—at little more than eight miles at its narrowest point—the Pailolo Channel is one of the windiest in the Hawaiian Islands. This means swimming and water sports in and around the channel are only for the very experienced. Some believe that Pailolo combines pai (lift) and olo’olo (shifting), while others say the name means “crazy fisherman,” in reference to the rough sea conditions. The annual Pailolo Challenge, held in September, is a 26-mile course from D.T. Fleming Beach Park on Maui to Kaunakakai Pier on Molokai—one of Hawaii’s best downwind runs.
To succeed, a restaurant that opens in Honolulu usually has to cater to locals or derive its patrons from the ever-widening pool of visitors in Waikiki. Morimoto Asia Waikiki does both with great style. On a recent visit just before sunset, we left our car with the valet at the new Alohilani Resort across from Waikiki Beach and walked up the entry stairs to the second floor restaurant. The interior was unmistakably Chef Masaharu Morimoto. Spare yet elegant, open and inviting Morimoto Asia Waikiki welcomes the early set who may be dressed casually, to the dinner date or bar set who might want to dressy-it-up. Our table was what they call “outside”. Settling in on the covered lanai with beach and ocean views, we lingered over the drink menu. Would it be a Morimoto Sparkling Sake from the well-curated sake menu? A glass of chardonnay? An Asian Whiskey? A Morimoto Black Obi brew? We opted for cocktails with the help of our server‘s descriptions. I love Mai Tais and Morimoto Asia Waikiki calls their version a P.O.G. Tai in a nod to the Passion Fruit Orange Guava juice mixture so famous in Hawaii. They make theirs with fresh juices and with white and dark rums and a splash of Cointreau. It had just the right balance. My dinner companion tried a North Shore Mule made with premium vodka, passion fruit juice, kabosu (a citrus) juice and ginger beer. It was so incredibly refreshing and a perfect libation to toast the surfers riding the waves as the sun turned the sky orange and slipped below the ocean. Looking around the room, the clientèle were a mix of visitors, business people entertaining guests and a few locals, but it was early. We took a look another look at the menu as our server walked up again to deftly explain the nuances of each dish. The menu is built to share which is great because there are so many things you’ll want to taste. Chef Morimoto’s concept for this restaurant is a combination of Pan-Asian foods. You’ll find Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Korean style dishes and flavors along some Western twists to ingredients. Like the steamed “pancake” served with the Morimoto Peking Duck is more of a tortilla. And yes, in addition to the eclectic menu you can have a N.Y. Strip steak if you’d like. We ordered a Beef Carpaccio starter flavored with yuzu soy and ginger. It was one of the most tender and delicious I have ever tasted because it is made with Japanese Washugyu beef. Arriving at the exact time we were ready for it, the creamy Buri Bop was mixed at our table by our waiter. After enjoying that simple rice dish, the Morimoto Asia Waikiki signature dish, the Morimoto Peking Duck arrived. Succulent and tender, it’s served with apricot sweet chili sauce and hoisin miso by our waiter who assembles our first bites enveloped in a steamed pancake, table-side. There so many options to suit your own style and preferences. Two local ladies next to us made a meal out of Tonkatsu Ramen and Chicken Pho accompanied by their bottle of wine. Too stuffed for dessert we would have had the Almond Pudding with kuromitsu (black sugar syrup), tropical fruit and oshiruko (sweet bean) or the little filled doughnuts with whipped cream,or the choice of strawberry yuzu, coconut, or passion orange guava sorbets. But alas, we just couldn’t do it. Making our way out of Morimoto Asia Waikiki we noticed the restaurant was full and the bar was packed. The pleasant hum of people enjoying their experience filled the bar. Looks like the locals love this place too. Dinner reservations a must, open for dinner only. Note on Chef Morimoto. He began at age 24 in his native Japan hometown of Hiroshima, with his own restaurant. After learning the art of his sushi he moved to America which presented him with possibilities to expand his repertoire. In 1999 he became Food Network’s Iron Chef, his name and skills familiar to millions of Americans. After a stint at Nobu as Executive Chef he opened in Philly. Following he opened Wasabi in Mumbai and New Delhi. Morimoto New York followed. There are a string of Morimoto restaurants from Bangkok to Tokyo including his Morimoto Ramen and Sake. Dubai has opened a Morimoto Dubai and the new concept Momosan by Morimoto restaurant is also opening at Alohilani Resort for casual dining to include ramen, gyoza, yakitori and the Oahu North Shore island classic garlic shrimp.
A clifftop eco-hotel surrounded by 50 barely touched acres on the bucolic North Kohala coast, Hawaii Island Retreat feels as far away as it gets. There are no TVs in the guest rooms, no air-con, and Wi-Fi only in certain spots. Solar and wind power provide all the electricity, while much of the fruit and vegetables are grown right on the property. Resident goats and bees supply the cheese and honey. The inn has 20 simply-furnished bedrooms in the main house, overlooking groves of cedar and pine trees, plus seven yurts a stone’s throw away, so it’s possible—likely even—that a guest might spend days here and rarely see another soul. The owners, a local spa therapist and natural healer and her physician husband, opened the property in 2009 with the express purpose of creating a wellness-focused retreat, which is why guests can sign up for classes in yoga, tai chi, and meditation, as well as facials and massages. Outdoor massage tables, placed under a tent, overlook a deep green valley. There’s also a mediation rock. So health-minded is this little retreat that it’s become a popular spot for guests recovering from serious illness or simply in search of a detox. Various packages have a wellness or spiritual theme.
Around 11,000 humpbacks—a quarter to a third of the global population, by some estimates—visit Hawaii from November until early May. They migrate here to mate and give birth. Intensely focused on procreation, these marine mammals don’t eat and can lose up to a third of their body weight while frisking in warmer waters. Nonetheless, the gray giants remain impressive, reaching 52 feet long and weighing up to 40 tons. That bulk doesn’t deter them from spectacular aerial displays of breaching and slapping the surface with their heads, fins, or tails, though! Boat tours like Captain Dan McSweeney’s Whale Watch Learning Adventures remain popular, but you can also spot these amazing creatures off the western Kohala Coast or Holoholokai Beach Park, and from campgrounds in Waipiʻo or Pololū valleys.
The storm has been downgraded to Category 2 but is still inflicting major damage throughout the Hawaiian Islands.
This unassuming trailer in a parking lot opposite a port in Kawaihae serves what may be the best shave ice on Hawaii Island, and possibly in the whole state. Why? First up, the syrups (divided into artificial, creamy, and fruit) really taste of what they are supposed to. This is one shave ice where you need to be careful which flavors you combine, because they don’t just bleed into each other. (Also note that the li hing mui comes with the powder, too, so get ready for that strange salty/sour/sweet hit.) More importantly, however, is the texture, which is smooth and creamy and more like compacted snow than ice. It was so different from anything we’d had before that we asked the staff whether they used a different machine than everyone else. Nope—they just make it using the technique their grandmother passed down to them.
Lotus Garden Cottages is an adorable boutique escape set among the rain forest of Volcano Village near to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The four luxury rooms—two cottages, two suites—are furnished in warm wood and each comes with a lanai, small kitchen, and TV equipped with Roku box. The rooms are decorated with artifacts taken from Korean temples, and this Zen vibe extends to the grounds, too, with a peaceful meditation garden, koi pond, and outdoor hot tub. Breakfast includes the most exquisitely plated fruit you have ever seen, served in your room by the proprietor, John. If you’re lucky, you’ll hear him playing violin in the office while you bask in a tranquility that is all the more remarkable given the restless fury of the nearby volcanoes.
Teshima’s Restaurant is a historic Japanese diner on the west coast of Hawaii Island in Kealakekua. Welcoming and reasonably priced, the diner serves Hawaiian Japanese comfort food. The set meals are the best value, a sampling of small dishes that might include sashimi, sukiyaki, fried fish, rice, and sides of cucumber, cabbage, and miso soup. The ahi is excellent (and the wasabi so soft and fresh), but the restaurant is really known for its shrimp tempura: Every local we asked about Japanese food told us to try it here. You can get it on its own, or as part of the “deep sea trio” of shrimp tempura, fried fish, and sashimi.
Scandinavian Shave Ice is Hawaii Island’s most iconic purveyor of the frozen treat—though it’s not quite so big a deal on this island as some of the others. That said, Scandi’s is everything you want your shave ice shop to be. Dozens of flavors to choose from, including some with no added sugar? Check. Choice of ice cream for the center? Check. Snow cap and other, more exotic, toppings available (like li hing mui powder or mochi)? Check. Sassy servers? Check. The result is a carefully sculpted ball of colorful ice the size of your head (go for the small size!), with a soft but cohesive texture, flavors more subtle than they look, and the ice cream in the center rather than the bottom—meaning you get to it even quicker! Yum.