Switzerland

Switzerland flourishes as a country of innovation and diversity while putting an emphasis on protecting its pristine nature, timeworn architecture, and unique traditions. While urban pleasure-seekers succumb to the temptations of world-class cuisine and sophisticated living, others are beguiled by medieval towns and candlelit villages. In the Alps, glitzy ski resorts exhibit fur boots and Ferraris, but there are also family destinations where children master their first snowplow. For adrenaline junkies, the dramatic geography means off-piste skiing, ice climbing, and one of the most renowned ski tours on Earth.

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Photo by Marco Meyer/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Switzerland?

Switzerland offers much to do year-round, though summer and winter are the most popular seasons to visit. Warm summer temperatures reliably lure locals out to bask on lakeshores, traipse through villages, and saunter along meadows and mountain paths. The snow-free roads open up many climbing opportunities, and intrepid visitors don ice boots on mountain trams. Many towns play host to a plethora of summer festivals. Be warned, though—flash thunderstorms are not uncommon. Depending on snowfall, the ski season begins as early as November and goes through April, though the peak time is January to March. Swiss resorts are rated among the finest in Europe and attract visitors from around the world. Without a doubt, the ski facilities are the main draw in winter—though ice skating, ice climbing, and Christmas shopping are great side shows.

How to get around Switzerland

Due to its central location, Switzerland is easily accessible from nearly anywhere in Europe. High-speed trains offer routes to and from surrounding countries, and an extensive road system enables visiting drivers to reach even remote destinations. International airports in the cities of Zurich, Geneva, and Basel are serviced by multiple airlines, including Swiss. No visitor restrictions apply for stays of up to three months, after which a visa is required.

Switzerland has pioneered one of the most efficient and sustainable transit systems in the world—and rather than buying individual journeys, travelers can access it all using the Swiss Travel Pass. Plan routes throughout the country on electric trains powered by renewable energy, hybrid-electric buses, and boats using the SBB Mobile transit app. Explore cities and towns on foot or by bicycle. Zurich’s bike-rental facilities are conveniently located at three locations throughout the city, including the main train station—simply show your passport, leave a deposit, and borrow a bike for free. When getting around by vehicle, drivers must purchase a tax disc (vignette), costing 40 Swiss francs (US$45). In winter, many mountain passes are closed, so those traveling by car should contact Automobile Club der Schweiz before making a journey or better yet, catch the train. Most trains have dedicated spaces for luggage, skis, and snowboards, and many ski hills have trams and gondolas that run straight from train station terminals. The Swiss Travel Pass offers discounts on many of the nation’s gondolas and trams.

Food and drink to try in Switzerland

A combination of three vastly different food cultures has kept the Swiss at the forefront of celebrated gastronomy. German, French, and Italian influences infuse different regions, and within these, nature-based gastronomy blends sustainable elements of food through locally sourced, farm-to-table ingredients. In the countryside, it’s not uncommon to see local farmers selling cheese on the honor system at the end of a driveway—a sign of how fresh and local food is in this country. Switzerland is home to a plethora of mountain restaurants with jaw-dropping views. Some of them require work to reach the reward, while others are a mere tram ride away. Swiss wine, though seldom exported, is excellent—and often affordable. Vineyards offering overnight stays, cycling tours, and walking trails scatter the land in many regions. Pair fine pinot noirs, chasselas, and quintessential Swiss mountain landscapes with a traditional fondue or raclette.

Culture in Switzerland

Centuries-old traditions and modern-day nuances are abundant in Switzerland’s architecture, people, cities, villages, nature, and festivals and events. Among the most celebrated festivals is Swiss National Day on August 1; on this date seven centuries ago, the regions of the area took an oath of allegiance. This foundation of modern-day Switzerland is celebrated vehemently every year, and each region marks the occasion in its own manner, usually with fireworks, bonfires, lavish parades, floats, and music. It is one time you might see the Swiss really letting loose.

Switzerland’s business ethic is offset every summer by a range of festivals. At the forefront is the Montreux Jazz Festival, which pulls in diverse artists from around the world. Set on the waterfront of Lake Geneva, this monthlong festival burgeons every year thanks to its delightful ambience, variety of music, and free entry to all but a few concerts. Lucerne’s Blue Balls Festival draws legends of rock and pop. And for one day every August, Zurich is transformed into a musical heaven during its famous annual street parade.

Tips for responsible travel in Switzerland

Switzerland’s 26 regions, or cantons, have their own customs, traditions, and—in many cases—languages. Supporting the communities and people of those regions is as easy as using a local guide, staying at a locally owned and sustainable hotel, or buying goods made in the region. But perhaps the simplest way to be a responsible traveler in Switzerland is to walk, bike, and take public transit. After all, the beauty of this country is best seen by taking it slow on foot or bike and staring out the train window with a camera in hand.

Practical Information

The currency is the Swiss franc, though sometimes euros are accepted. The country’s three main languages are French, German, and Italian (a small minority also speaks Romansh). Most of the younger generation speak English. Switzerland (and neighboring Lichtenstein) use a J plug; travelers from the U.S. and Canada will need either a SEV 1011 or Earplug converter and an adapter for 240 V electricity.

Guide Editors

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Yes, you read that right. Locals in this Swiss financial hub may be buttoned-up during the day, but they know how to let their hair down after dark.
Up until 2004, Switzerland’s iconic furry friends—St. Bernard dogs—were bred at this monastery and hospice. While the canines have been relocated, the Great St. Bernard Hospice, which sits on a barren, treeless plane at 8,100 feet, is still an active monastery run by Augustinian monks. The steep four-mile ascent from the valley is a killer on foot, but still doable—on groomed trails in summer and on snowshoes in winter. Inside, monks greet you and show you to communal tables in the stone dining hall where vegetable soups are served with hunks of Bagnes cheese, thick slices of brown bread, and honey-sweetened tea (or a carafe of red Dôle wine produced in the Valais region just below, which seems to be the more popular option). Don’t miss the odd museum, displaying local taxidermy, ancient coins, and maps once used for Alpine crossings; the 800-year-old crypt is allegedly stuffed with the bodies of ancient travelers who didn’t survive the journey. A register of “Les passants célèbres” includes Charlemagne, Napoleon, and Alexandré Dumas but omits Charles Dickens, who lived nearby for a summer.
This Alpine area in Appenzellerland sits at an altitude of more than 5,000 feet and is home to the much-photographed Aescher-Gasthaus, Switzerland’s version of the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. The 19th-century guesthouse was constructed directly into a jagged cliff face and while guests can no longer stay overnight, it’s a popular place for a meal. The cable car to Aescher departs from Wasserauen, and then a 20-minute hike passes ancient Wildkirchli caves that were once home to prehistoric bears and, later, 16th-century hermits. There’s also a grotto chapel built right into the stone, a small museum, and a sheep farm on some seriously steep meadow terrain.
Art-loving hikers and Instagram-posting skiers are fond of the Engadine Valley’s unique sgraffiti, decorative murals found on the exterior plaster or stucco walls of chalets and other buildings. They range from 500-year-old pastoral scenes to 20th-century brutalist depictions of railroad workers and hoe-clutching farmers. Typically, these works are made by scratching through the building’s surface to reveal a sub-layer of a contrasting color. Some of the best sgraffiti are found in the most remote villages, and generally, the closer you get to the Italian border, the more you’ll see. Engadine native Josin Neuhäusler is a sgraffito artist who also gives tours of the works.
Trade your yodeling for yoga at this free-spirited meditation center in the former Grand Hotel Sonnenberg, a converted Beaux-Arts property nesting atop an enviable ridge in Seelisberg that overlooks the peaceful and turquoise Lake Uri below. The center was founded by the late Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, guru to the Beatles (among many other celebrities). For the unenlightened, the center’s friendly, English-speaking staff will give you a free tour of the facility and a 101 on TM (Transcendental Meditation). Additional activities like yajna rituals and Ayurvedic treatments can be arranged for long-term visitors. Even if TM is not for you, it’s worth the trek to Seelisberg for the glorious views and the rhododendron and rose gardens surrounding the center, which is open to all.
Pack your bikini and a bottle of cold Ticinese rosé and head to the campanile-spiked hills above Locarno. In Switzerland’s sunny and steep-sloped Italian-speaking Canton Ticino, locals and visitors alike love a bracing dip in the cool mountain water—and there’s no better place to witness this than at the historic Ponte dei Salti (Jumping Bridge), a double-arched bridge across the Verzasca River where bronzed young Ticinese plunge into the river’s lustrous emerald depths. From the city of Locarno, the intense hike to the ancient Roman relic hugs the Verzasca River and passes through chestnut groves, vineyards, fragrant pine forests, and the iconic Contra (or Verzasca) Dam where scenes from the James Bond thriller GoldenEye were shot. If your time is limited, take the 45-minute PostBus to the bridge (included with a Swiss Travel Pass) and walk down. Or take the bus all the way to the end of the road in the Alpine village of Sonogno, where a jade-colored waterfall pool, the river’s source, awaits.
Forty miles from Zurich in the heart of central Switzerland, the Axenstrasse is a historic motorway that’s so achingly scenic it might even cure your vertigo. It winds for seven miles around the base of the Uri Alps hugging the verdant ridge of turquoise Lake Uri (a branch of the four-fingered Vierwaldstätter See—Four Forested Cantons Lake—more familiar to most tourists as Lake Lucerne). It occasionally careens through century-old mountain tunnels and past painted bell towers and Roman-era viaducts scattered around the region’s Alpine villages, where the legendary folk hero William Tell is supposed to have come from. There are numerous picnic areas along the older sections of the Axenstrasse, and the entire stretch of lake is swimmable in the summer. Hikers can find a variety of trails along the road that can take them to higher altitudes, where they can spot ibex, chamois, alpine orchids, purple gentian, and acrobatic alpine choughs, riding the thermals of the warm foehn winds, said by locals to cause madness.
Poschiavo is one of the last stops along the UNESCO-listed Rhaetian Railway before it descends towards Tirano, Italy. It’s also one of the few Italian-speaking villages in Switzerland outside of Canton Ticino. The seemingly untouched medieval town is a jolt back in time, with a full-on baroque piazza boasting a stone campanile and a museum stuffed with 16th-century furnishings and antiquities. Don’t leave without stopping for a nibble at its Wednesday market: Local specialties include pizzoccheri (a buckwheat pasta), burrata, local truffles, anise-flavored bread, wine from Campascio in the surrounding valley, and cheese from Caseficio Valposchiavo, a nearby organic dairy. The market is held every Wednesday on Poschiavo’s main piazza.
The 66-square-mile Swiss National Park is a completely unmanaged natural area that was founded in 1914, the first national park in the Alps and a rare undeveloped location in the Swiss German–speaking part of Switzerland—a corner of the world better known for ski resorts than nature reserves. Its ungroomed hiking trails offer opportunities to encounter Alpine wildlife like marmot, ibex, chamois, northern hares, and lizards, not to mention innumerable birds and wildflowers (many of which are sadly endangered and on IUCN’s Red List). Biologists here are doing some of Europe’s most important conservation and research work to help better understand Alpine flora and fauna that have experienced only minimal interaction with humans.
Lucerne is no stranger to mass tourism: The otherwise lovely medieval city swells each summer with list-checking visitors en route to central Switzerland’s famed Pilatus and Titlis mountains. Surprisingly, few of them make the 15-minute trek from the train station to this gorgeous 19th-century badi (open-air swimming area) on the Lucerne National Quay, overlooking the clear blue waters of what the locals call the Vierwaldstätter See (aka Lake Lucerne). The entire facility was meticulously restored in 2010 and remains a favorite of residents for its excellent views of brooding, multi-horned Mount Pilatus, Jean Nouvel’s lakeside KKL performance hall, and Santiago Calatrava’s Lucerne Station Hall—and all without the hassle of tourists.