Tokyo

Riding high after its successful bid to host the 2020 Olympics, the capital city formerly known as Edo is a sprawling megalopolis characterized by a blend of ancient tradition and modern luxury. Greater Tokyo boasts a resume like that of an anime superhero—it has the largest urban population on Earth, an ultra-efficient public transportation system, more Michelin-starred restaurants than Paris and New York combined, a high level of public safety, and four distinct seasons in which to enjoy it all. Combine this with zany, only-in-Japan attractions and entertainment, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for what is arguably the globe’s greatest city.

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Photo Courtesy of Landon Nordeman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Tokyo?

Tokyo has four discrete seasons, with temperatures ranging from around freezing at night during the peak of winter to the high 90s in the height of summer. While it rarely snows in the capital, the humidity during January and February can make it feel colder than the reading on the thermometer. And the city’s asphalt and concrete retain considerable heat during the summer. Japan’s “plum rain” season falls in early summer—tsuyu, as it is called in Japanese, is characterized by a light drizzle reminiscent of Seattle or London. September sees the advent of typhoons originating in the more southerly Pacific. These occasionally strike the capital, bringing high winds and downpours. Spring and particularly autumn are absolutely beautiful, with relatively low humidity. Cherry blossoms bloom in March and April, and brilliant fall colors characterize November. May is also a great time to visit, as daytime temperatures average 73 degrees with low humidity and mostly sunny days. Japan’s busiest and most expensive travel seasons fall during Golden Week (the last week in April and first week of May) and New Year’s. During these times Tokyo tends to empty out, as many residents return to their hometowns in the countryside.

How to get around Tokyo

Tokyo is serviced by two international airports, Narita International and Haneda. Narita is the larger of the two, sitting about 36 miles from the center of Tokyo in neighboring Chiba Prefecture. From here, downtown is accessible via a variety of trains and buses (or a very expensive taxi ride). Haneda, Japan’s largest domestic airport, is located in Tokyo proper adjacent to Tokyo Bay, and its relatively small size and location mean greater convenience but fewer flights and higher fares.

Tokyo enjoys one of the world’s largest public transportation systems. The city is crisscrossed by municipal and private rail, subways, buses, and taxis, meaning that pretty much any location can be reached with ease. Trains are amazingly efficient and punctual, and station signs are in English. Bus route maps, though, tend to be in Japanese only. Likewise, most taxi drivers speak limited, if any, English, so when you go out for a night on the town, bring a card from your hotel’s front desk or concierge with the name and address on it—to avoid anything getting lost in translation on the return trip!

Can’t miss things to do in Tokyo

A favorite activity on a summer or fall weekend is hopping aboard one of the water ferries that travel between Asakusa, Hamamatsucho, and Odaiba. It’s a great way to see the east side of the city while enjoying a refreshing craft beer in the process!

Food and drink to try in Tokyo

The Big Mikan is rightfully known as the culinary capital of the world and is a foodie’s paradise. It offers a bewildering number and variety of both Japanese regional and international cuisines. Meals range in price from a couple hundred yen to amounts that may require you to take out a bank loan. Tokyo has an impressive 230 Michelin-starred restaurants, but the city’s dining scene goes far beyond those stars. There are a mind-boggling 80,000 restaurants where one can enjoy everything from ramen to the world’s best French (yes, you read that right—the three-star Quintessence, located in the Shirokanedai neighborhood of Tokyo, is the reigning champ). The drink scene in New Edo is no slouch, either—bars and clubs are stacked atop one another in the more densely packed areas of the city. While many are straight-up run-of-the mill drinking establishments, some revolve around themes, running the gamut from maid’s cafes in Akihabara—where the waitresses dress up in French maid outfits—to decor modeled after a Gothic church, for starters. If you want to skip the atmosphere and jump straight into your cups, you can buy beer and liquor 24-7 from the ubiquitous convenience stores, and if you can’t be bothered to walk that far you can just buy your bounty from vending machines on the street—there are no open-container laws in Japan.

Culture in Tokyo

Tokyo offers not only a plethora of festivals, but also many museums and places to explore traditional handicrafts and customs. Certain neighborhoods are identified with aspects of Japanese and Tokyoite culture: Asakusa is known as the temple district, Shibuya as the go-to hangout for the young generation, and Shimokitazawa as the hotbed of the indie music scene. For a one-stop encapsulation of Tokyo’s history and Japanese culture, check out the Edo Tokyo Museum in Ryogoku, located next to the Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumo Hall); this massive structure looks like an alien battleship and houses scale models of Edo-period (1603-1868) architecture and dioramas of daily life. It also features traditional Japanese dance performances.

For an experience that falls somewhere between a cultural excursion and a food outing, a trip to the Tsujiki Market is recommended. The three-hour walking tour organized by AFAR’s travel partner Context leads visitors deep into the market, where fresh produce, meat, and fish is sold alongside kitchenwares. Taste the freshest sushi, and sampling pickles, preserves, and dumplings and emerge with a deeper understanding of Japanese foodways and culture.

Festivals (known as matsuri) are abundant in Tokyo. Celebrations commemorate historic events and honor Shinto gods with massive fireworks displays and jubilees. Two of the largest festivals are the Sanja Matsuri, held at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa in mid-May to commemorate the three founders of the temple, and the Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival, held on the last Saturday of July over the Sumida River.

Local travel tips for Tokyo

  • While ATMs abound throughout Tokyo, you may have trouble getting cash from a Japanese bank. Instead go to one of the several Citibank branches in town or to any 7-Eleven, and you should have no problem withdrawing yen pegged close to that day’s interbank rate.
  • While earthquakes are common throughout Japan, they can be particularly jarring in Tokyo because of the high-rise buildings, which will amplify the shaking if you happen to be in one at the time. Don’t panic, though, as this is normal—Tokyo’s modern skyscrapers are designed to dissipate the earthquake’s energy by swaying in an exaggerated fashion. The trick is to remain calm and follow the locals’ lead—they’re old hands at this and generally know best.

Practical Information

Tokyo’s most-spoken language is Japanese. As for powering up your laptop or plugging in your hair dryer, the electric outlets may look like they’ll accommodate your American power cords but the voltage is 100 instead of North America’s 120 so they won’t always work. Bring adapters.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
Forever immortalized by Sofia Coppola’s indie sensation starring Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson, one of Japan’s most famous hotels is ready for its next chapter.
Several new design-forward hotels offer a less-expensive, more-immersive way to visit Japan’s capital city.
Janu Tokyo has finally opened its doors, launching the playful, wellness-focused, and slightly more affordable new luxury lifestyle brand from Aman Resorts.
There’s no shortage of amazing stays in Japan’s capital—and these 15 hotels are the city’s best.
With its hushed atmosphere and cultural experiences, Hoshinoya Tokyo is a true urban resort.
Capsule hotels—enclosed spaces with only a bed—are ubiquitous in Japan but still rare elsewhere. A new micro-hotel at Dulles Airport aims to change that.
The next trend in lodging? The B&B&B (bed and breakfast and bicycle). Here are our picks for where to try it first.
The refurbished Do-C hotel features traditional Japanese sleeping pods and saunas imported from Finland.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Despite its address in the bustling heart of Tokyo, Hotel Chinzanso feels like a remote retreat thanks to its location in a 17-acre oasis with historic pagodas, 1,000 camellia trees, and 120 cherry trees; even the locals take refuge in the garden’s leafy paths. Though the spacious Western-style rooms offer every kind of modern amenity, from free WiFi and 24-hour room service to babysitting services and a custom pillow menu, the hotel honors traditional Japanese design with Arita ceramics, nishijin-ori throws, and ukiyo-e woodblock prints, as well as customs such as tea ceremonies and kimono fittings. There are nine dining options but the best one is Mokushundo, where classic dishes are prepared on hot rocks sourced from Mount Fuji and kaiseki-style in iron kettles.
Occupying the top nine floors of the Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower, designed by renowned Argentine architect César Pelli, the Mandarin Oriental showcases postcard views of Mount Fuji to the west, Tokyo Skytree and the Sumida River to the east, and Tokyo Bay to the south. The hotel also turns to nature for its design inspiration. The property itself resembles a tree, with its entrance at the bottom of the tower representing the base; on the top floor, fabrics and carpets suggest leaves and branches, creating the feeling of a forest canopy. The 157 rooms and 22 suites were designed with such flourishes as bonsai trees and cherry blossom motifs. At the 37th floor spa, a signature “Totally Tokyo” treatment uses pine, bamboo, plum, green tea, and rice hulls to stimulate the senses and restore a sense of clarity. For dinner, choose between French, Cantonese, and Italian restaurants.
If you’re looking for a chic lodging with personality to spare, Park Hotel is it. Designed under the concept of ART—atrium, restaurant, travel—it occupies 10 levels of the triangular Shiodome Media Tower and pays homage to Japan’s natural beauty with a glass-enclosed courtyard (purported to be the largest hotel atrium in Tokyo) and trees and greenery dotting the spaces between the building’s 25th and 34th floors. An artist-in-residence program ensures that every room on the 31st floor features unique murals and paintings by local creatives, while more conventional rooms come in light, neutral tones, but all are furnished with stylish pieces by B&B Italia. The hotel also houses a wood-paneled spa, an art gallery, and a kaiseki-style Japanese restaurant and casual French bistro where the dishes are pieces of art in and of themselves.
Immortalized on celluloid in the film Lost in Translation, the modernist Park Hyatt may have the sexiest cocktail bar in all of Tokyo. The rest of the property—set on the upper floors of the three connecting columns of the 770-foot Shinjuku Park Tower—is just as attractive, with a bamboo garden, swimming pool, and restaurant seated high in the sky. The interiors are the work of Pritzker Prize–winning architect Kenzo Tange and designer John Morford, ornamented with wood, woven abaca, and granite to add warmth to the hotel’s sleek glass surfaces. Starting at just under 600 square feet, guest rooms are practically palatial and include glass knobs that let you control everything from the lights to the curtains right from your bed, as well as walls paneled with rare water elm from Hokkaido, some sourced from trees that were submerged in lakes for up to 2,000 years.
This 248-room hotel in one of the city’s tallest skyscrapers—Roppongi’s glass-sheeted Tokyo Midtown—offers some of the best views in the city, but the interiors are just as eye-catching. The property starts on the 45th floor and espouses classic European decor, with four colorful abstract works by California painter Sam Francis, each 12 feet high, dominating the lobby. Rooms and public spaces look onto Mount Fuji, the Imperial Palace, and Tokyo Bay; inside delicate woodwork, hand-tufted carpets, patterned chiyogami wall coverings, a lobby waterfall, and Murano chandeliers set the scene. The hotel proudly touts the most expensive guest room in Japan, the Ritz-Carlton Suite, yours for the princely sum of $16,200 per night.
Tokyo’s first design hotel, Claska is a fitting choice for creative types. Not only is it located on a street known for its second-hand furniture stores, its 20 individually decorated rooms—all masterminded by architect Tei Shuwa, who also designs furniture and home appliances—fall into four categories: midcentury-style Modern, traditional Tatami, minimalist Contemporary, and Story, which feature ever-evolving aesthetics carried out in collaboration with Japanese artists and designers. French-influenced dishes take centerstage in the ground-floor restaurant, and the hotel has a shop for Japanese artisanal home products and a gallery with monthly exhibits, as well as a dog-grooming salon and a fleet of custom Tokyo bikes for exploring the cafés of the nearby Nakameguro neighborhood.
A collaboration between New York interior designer Tony Chi and Tokyo-based Shinichiro Ogata, this sleek Andaz property incorporates natural materials like washi paper and walnut wood high atop the multiuse business and lifestyle Toranomon Hills building. Rooms come with skyline views deep soaking tubs, and black-and-white closets and cabinets that recall the sketches of Piet Mondrian, but you won’t be cooped up for long. Snag a seat at the eight-person sushi bar, or dine on grilled snow-aged beef (that is, steaks aged in a natural yukimuro refrigerator of the white stuff) at the Tavant Grill, then end your evening with tea-infused cocktails at the rooftop bar.
Located in Shibuya City, aka the Silicon Valley of Tokyo, Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel is a laid-back lodging close to Meiji Jingu Shrine and Tokyo Tower. Western and Japanese aesthetics mix in simple, unfussy guest rooms with calming colors and marble bathrooms; some have unobstructed views of Mount Fuji in the distance. You can find your moment of Zen in the stone garden in front of the lobby, the handiwork of celebrated landscape architect Shunmyo Masuno, or at the indoor pool. Quirky amenities include a traditional Noh theater and perhaps the only in-hotel dental salon, in case you need a touch-up teeth whitening.
In the Akihabara neighborhood, giant anime billboards, towering Sega arcades, and electronics shops dominate the streets. The area’s denkiya, or electric appliance stores, boast an unparalleled selection of gadgets for gear geeks. The giant among them is Yodobashi-Akiba, an electronics megastore located directly east of Akihabara Station. Yodobashi-Akiba has nine levels of appliances, electronic toys, sports gadgets, and travel items. Check out 700,000 yen (about $7000 USD) Leicas as well as the many non-electronic offerings: lightweight kimonos known as yukata, anime figurines, bicycles, and books. The first and eighth floors offer sustenance and a break from shopping, with restaurants serving up ramen, tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet), soba, and sushi at any hour from the popular Tokyo chain Sushi Zanmai. The ninth floor is devoted to golf and baseball, complete with a driving range and batting center.
Tokyo’s morning rush hour can leave you feeling like a drone. I stepped out of the river of people leaving Shinagawa Station and into The City Bakery to pause for a peaceful breakfast and iced latte. Delicious all around, especially the shaved carrot and pumpkin seed salad. (One of two heaping salads that came with the French toast set — they’re a thing at breakfasts in Japan. Just go with it.) The meal and drink cost 1,200 yen. The City Bakery has a restaurant and bar at one end and a separate bakery and cafe for take-away items. As you’re leaving Shinagawa’s east exit, it’s on the left.