Kerala

Kerala is the southernmost state on India’s western coast. A progressive socialist region—Kerala boasts of one of the highest literacy rates in the country—it’s also one of the country’s most beautiful, with a long sandy coastline, velvet green hills, and dense forests, all interpenetrated by the snaking channels and sweeping expanses of the backwaters. The state has a rich history and a tradition of hospitality, and it’s easy to slip right into the relaxed pace of life. The state capital, Thiruvananthapuram, is also known as Trivandrum; the popular city of Kochi is also known as Cochin.

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Photo Courtesy of Chiara Goia

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Kerala

Beaches, backwaters, and tea and spice plantations aside, there’s a lot of history to be enjoyed in Kerala. Stroll around Fort Kochi, the historic core of the city, and travel back to the time of spice traders and merchants along the lanes of Jew Town, past the Paradesi Synagogue. Visit the Santa Cruz Basilica and St. Francis Church, before heading to Mattancherry to enjoy the murals and temple art at Mattancherry Palace, a 1555 gift from the Portuguese to the Raja of Kochi. Kerala is home to some of the biggest temples in India and is a popular pilgrimage destination, with temples like the historic Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Thiruvananthapuram, the Guruvayur Temple in Guruvayur, and Vadakkunnathan Temple in Thrissur.

Culture in Kerala

Dance, music, and art are ingrained in the local way of life. Many Indian classical dance forms trace their roots to Kerala’s waters. The most well-known of these are kathakali—a dance drama traditionally performed only by men—and the graceful, 16th-century form of mohiniattam, a temple dance performed only by women. Kerala is also known for its ancient practice of kalaripayattu, a dramatic martial art form that dates back 3,000 years; daily shows take place at the Cochin Cultural Centre in Kochi. Modern forms of artistic expression are also revered; Kerala’s film industry is famous for churning out Malayalam masterpieces and blockbusters, rivaling the Hindi film industry based out of Mumbai.

Food and drink to try in Kerala

Three big influences dominate Kerala’s culinary culture: Hindu vegetarian preparations, which include the festive sadhya—a banquet of at least 20 dishes served on banana leaves—and popular rice-based snacks such as dosas and idlis; the Islamic influences of Malabar cuisine, known for its aromatic biryanis and flatbreads served with beef fry; and Syrian Christian flavors, with roast duck, stews, and crepes, as well as rich Christmas cakes. All three styles of cuisine make good use of coconut, both grated and in milk form. Seafood and root vegetables are also common, as are an assortment of homegrown spices.

Shopping

Kerala isn’t a place where you stock up on soft cottons and colorful footwear. In Kerala, you stock up on metals: brass, bronze, copper, and gold. Ornate brass and copper vessels, statues, and idols are particular specialties. In addition, given the popularity of jewelry in the state, there’s a gold shop on every other street corner. Products made from coir, a coconut fiber, are also a big draw, and include masks, mats, and handbags. Other items to look for include wood carvings, elephant figurines, foot stools, and unique vintage items, including ornate furniture. Shipping can be arranged by most sellers, if necessary. If you prefer to travel light, buy a bag of fresh, homegrown spices.

Practical Information

The weather in Kerala is comfortable from late October to May; June to September is monsoon season. Kerala has three airports that serve international and domestic destinations: Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram, and Kozhikode. All foreign visitors require an Indian visa. You can get around in private taxis, or take tourist buses and trains for longer distances. Malayalam is the local language, but English is widely understood. Local transactions are made in the Indian rupee (INR); hotels, big stores, and restaurants accept credit cards, but smaller establishments might not. ATMs are widely available. Most bills include a service charge in lieu of tip; if this is not added, it’s common to tip 10%. Electricity is 220 volts.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
When you see this UNESCO World Heritage–listed train station, you’ll understand why it’s described as an eastern version of London’s St. Pancras. This imposing reminder of the British raj, designed in an extravagant Victorian-Gothic style with Islamic and Hindu elements thrown in, is often referred to by its colonial name of Victoria Terminus, or VT; a statue of Queen Victoria still lords over the building’s dome. Inside, watch with awe as thousands of people spill on and off the trains—and if you’re feeling brave, have a go at riding the rails yourself.

Set aside some time to indulge in a spot of pampering and preening. The lanes of Koregaon Park are home to a number of salons and day spas, many of which are adjacent to each other—so you can enjoy a set of salon treatments before stepping next door for a spa appointment. A good spa to visit is Four Fountains, which offers a full suite of therapies for de-stressing, detox, and beauty. Treatments include aromatherapy, reflexology, Ayurvedic massage, and the intriguing coffee and cane sugar body polish.
For years now, Koregaon Park has been associated with a hint of mysticism. It all began with the formation of the sprawling Osho International Asharam on the quiet and leafy Lane 1. The commune was established by Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh, a controversial philosopher and guru who died in 1990, and is a center for spirituality and meditation. With its distinct black tiles and white marble pathway, the massive property is easy to identify; followers are often seen in maroon robes, on their way in and out. The focus here is on relaxation and de-stressing. Visitors can amble along the green estate, sign up for a meditation workshop, get a massage or some other therapeutic service, mingle with visitors from across the globe over a cup of tea, or even go for a swim.
In 1994 a nullah (the Indian equivalent of a wadi) of stagnant water was reclaimed, regenerated, and converted into one of the most beautiful Japanese Zen gardens in Pune. The five-hectare Osho Teerth Park, within the Osho commune grounds, gives the busy Koregaon Park area some much needed breathing space. You’ll find perfectly manicured lawns and areas of lush foliage spread out around a small lake. Wooden bridges connect the different parts of the park, leading over small water cascades and past bamboo clusters. Birds, colorful flowers, and the gentle sound of flowing water give the park an air of tranquillity, making it an oasis of calm in the middle of a chaotic city. Drop by for a stroll and some fresh air, find a corner to practice yoga or meditate, or simply curl up on a bench with a book.
If the hustle and bustle of Pune gets too much, escape to a themed Rajasthani village for a few hours. Chokhi Dhani is a mock-up Rajasthani village that comes alive in the evening and transports its visitors to a simpler, more carefree place. The village is set up like a village fair, with a crafts market, local artisans hawking their talents, and even camel rides. Authentic replicas of traditional Rajasthani dwellings double as venues for art and music. Your kids will love the traditional puppet shows and the magic. You can also try your hand at Indian fair games, have a henna tattoo, or consult with astrologers and fortune-telling parrots. The entry ticket includes the option for a vegetarian Rajasthani meal.
The walls are adorned with colorful masks and wall murals. The displays include rustic kitchen utensils and chunky hand-crafted jewelry. A trip to the Pune Tribal Museum opens up a window into the vibrant cultures of the tribes that live in the state of Maharashtra. This isn’t the biggest museum in Pune (the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum has a huge collection of artifacts from the region), but each tribe—such as the Warli, Bhil, Gond, Koli, and Kolam, to name but a few—represents a unique cultural and socio-economic heritage, and that is what makes the Tribal Museum such an interesting visit.
Locha is a hard word to translate. A literal English translation would be “a problem,” but that misses the mark. You could think of it as a “mess,” but that’s not really it either. Locha is more along the lines of “something funky is in the works.” And true to its name, Chemical Locha is all kinds of funky—and a very colorful kind of funky at that. This little store is set up right where N Main Road turns into Lane 5, and the bright green and purple logo is hard to miss if you are walking past. Duck in for all sorts of quirky, kitsch, and crazy swag. Items on sale include: A rib-tickling collection of t-shirts, including an Iron Man shirt with a turbaned laundrywala ironing a pile. Kooky bar accessories—look out for those with an Indian twist, like the “Horn OK Please” coasters. Bright stationery, including diaries, notebooks, and bookmarks you can plant (the bookmark is embedded with sunflower seeds; the idea is to read, sow, and reap). A set of funny mugs, key chains, and games. If you’re looking for offbeat souvenirs, this is definitely your place.
There are many secrets and many stories hidden beneath Pune’s bustle, waiting for you to uncover them on this fascinating three-hour walk. Duck into narrow alleyways—some forgotten by time, others stuck in a time warp—to uncover medieval royal courts, ancient temples, erstwhile aristocratic dwellings, and aging bazaars. You have 2,000 years of history at your disposal, and a well informed volunteer guide to lead the way. If historical facts and dates aren’t your thing, join the walk for a look at the pace of life in old Pune, where the new jostles with the old, and the old with the ancient. A number of families continue to inhabit their ancestral homes in the old core, particularly in the wadas of Pune. A wada is a traditional residential structure. It consists of two or more floors with multiple rooms built around one or more inner courtyards. The more ornate wadas belonged to wealthy families (merchants, aristocrats, and so on), while the simple ones were designed as community housing, with many families living there. The walk ends at one of Pune’s most well known wadas, Vishrambaug Wada.
Take the afternoon off and wander along the many lanes of Koregaon Park. You’ll encounter an eclectic mix of establishments: Hole-in-the-walls, chic cafes, pubs, food stalls, fine dining restaurants, fast food chains, designer boutiques, and street markets. You’ll also get to see how the other half live. Sprawling bungalows with ornate gates and name plates dot these lanes, each one grander than before. The sheer opulence of the houses here will make your jaw drop. But the real magic of a walk in these parts lies with the ancient banyan trees lining the streets. They stand tall and wide with their aerial roots dropping down in clusters and almost matching the length of the trees, creating a strange but beautiful canopy. Despite the constant flow of traffic on the main outer road, there is quiet to be found here. The car horns are replaced by chirping bird calls, and an occasional laugh might float through an open window.
The intimate, dimly-lit setting of Lodi – the Garden Restaurant provides the perfect place for a romantic rendezvous or a business dinner. There’s a beautiful outdoor deck that overlooks the lush Lodhi Gardens or you can opt for the cozy confines within. The food is absolutely something to rave about, bagging the award of one of the best restaurants in Delhi. You’ll find all the Mediterranean staples like hummus, tabouli, shish taouk, and shwarma, but their specialties are Pistou Soup and River Sole Steak Creole. It’s one of the very few places in Delhi that serve actual beef, so feast your senses on real steak. And the best of all is the dessert menu — it’s killer! There’s also live jazz bands for your entertainment, usually on the weekends, but call before you go to check. You’ll come in hungry and leave happy!