Hawai‘i

More than 2,000 miles from the nearest continent (North America), Hawai‘i has always lured travelers seeking paradise in the Pacific. Polynesian explorers first paddled into the islands between 300 and 500 CE. Following centuries of civilization, the Hawai‘ians first met Europeans in 1778—sparking a story whose ultimate end was American statehood in 1959. Tourism is now the state’s largest industry, and most travelers are familiar with stock photos of hula, leis, and surfboards. But as with most idylls, there’s much more to discover beyond the pages of glossy brochures.

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Photo by Kyle Johnson

Overview

Beaches

Eight major islands comprise the Hawai‘ian archipelago, meaning there’s coastline in abundance and a beach for everyone. Adventurers skirt the edges of Kaua‘i’s Napali Coast by kayak. Sun worshipers lounge around lazy Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu and on Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, where the sun feels so close it’s hard to believe you’re at sea level. Beaches like Punaluu Beach on the Big Island—with its black sand—and the Red Sand Beach on Maui reward day-trippers with their psychedelic scenery. Meanwhile, the gravity-defying waves of the Banzai Pipeline hurl themselves against O‘ahu’s North Shore in winter, and the churning surf of nearby Waimea Bay seems like it can’t be made of the same gentle stuff that kisses the coast off Lāna‘i.

Away from the Beach

Rings of coastline protect each island’s heart, and it’s well worth leaving the beach to explore inland. On the Big Island, travelers dip into the Waipio Valley—scooped out of the island’s north side—or summit the Mauna Kea volcano at twilight to touch the stars above. On Oʻahu, hikers scale the Koko Head Crater or follow trails of rainbows dancing above the lush Manoa Valley. No matter where they are based, visitors seeking to learn more about the archipelago have options for various guided tours. Paniolo Adventures, for example, guides horseback rides that offer views of the coastline, volcanoes, and ancient historical sites.

When’s the best time to go to Hawai‘i?

With great weather throughout the year, there’s no bad time to visit Hawaiʻi. Hurricane season, from June to November, rarely touches the islands.

Food and drink to try in Hawai‘i

The bounty of land and sea is evident in Hawaiʻi’s cuisine, which shows South Pacific, Asian, and even Portuguese influences. Roy’s, a popular restaurant located on three islands, serves blackened ahi and macadamia nut-crusted opah, while Yama’s Fish Market in Honolulu presents numerous appetizers and simple staples like beef stew. Humble roadside stands serve lau lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf) or poke (seafood tartare). Hawaiʻian hospitality has been exported in a glass via the mai tai and lava flow cocktails. For something sweet, try a deep-fried malasada doughnut from Leonard’s Bakery in Honolulu, a chocolate haupia cream pie from Ted’s Bakery on Sunset Beach, or a syrupy shave ice from the famous Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa.

Culture in Hawai‘i

Hawaiʻi was colonized by Polynesians and has long drawn visitors from Asia, Oceania, and North America. The ‘Iolani Palace—where Hawaiʻi’s last royal family lived and ruled—should be the first stop for anyone interested in the islands’ heritage. Across the street, the historic Ali’iolani Hale building was featured on the TV series Hawaii Five-0. Also check out the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, where fascinating artifacts range from ancient weapons to the feathered cloak of King Kamehameha I. To this day, the islands’ varied influences are united by the uniquely Hawaiʻian spirit of aloha.

How to get around Hawai‘i

Most domestic and international arrivals land in Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air, and Mokulele Airlines operate inter-island flights. The islands are large enough to make a car rental worthwhile. If you plan to stay in one place, taxis and shuttles are easy to arrange.

Practical Information

Credit cards are not accepted everywhere, so travelers should carry some cash when shopping. A 15–20 percent tip is standard for restaurant bills, 15 percent for taxi fares, and $1–2 per bag handled at a hotel. Tips for tours start at $5 and increase based on tour length. Outlets are 110 volt.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
This surf-style restaurant elevates local food-truck fare at the new Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina. Expect ahi poke, wild-boar hot dogs, and the coolest French fry innovation out there: A heaping platter of slender spuds topped with Parmesan, cherry tomatoes, and wilted arugula for that “It’s healthy, really” feeling! Wash it all down with kombucha on draft—with flavors like pineapple ginger or liliko’i (passion fruit)—and cocktails such as the Castaway, featuring melon vodka, coconut water, and lime juice. Come prepared to lounge outside, as the Waterman wraps around the family pool and also serves its exclusive beach. Food is served 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
These funky-fresh tee shops are keeping island style alive.
Food trucks often frequent the mellow North Shore surf-town of Hale‘iwa—and Giovanni’s remains the fan favorite! Each platter contains two scoops of rice and a dozen jumbo shrimp: lemon-butter, hot and spicy, or the classic garlic-rich scampi-style. Add hot sauce or a side of homemade mac salad... or go rogue with a garlic hot dog smothered in scampi sauce. The truck was initially crisp and white, but has been steadily graffitied with the signatures of chefs and customers since the mid-90’s. Today it parks across from McDonald’s, but has added a pavilion and picnic tables. Or visit the original Giovanni’s White Shrimp Truck at 56-505 Kamehameha Highway in Kahuku.
Hundreds of local and international artists have gathered each Valentine’s Day week since 2011 to make music, murals, and live installations in Honolulu’s Kakaako district. They also host block parties and panel discussions. Centered on the Lana Lane Studios collective, the event has splashed gorgeous designs all over the neighborhood... and is now expanding out to Guam, Germany, Jamaica, New Zealand, Singapore, Taiwan, the mainland U.S., and beyond. Print or save directions to the art online—http://powwowhawaii.com/mural-map—or just wander the streets, stopping for an Aussie-style coffee and botanical bounty at Paiko, then perhaps stopping by one of the world’s most famous luthiers: Kamaka Ukulele.
This nonprofit perpetuates the art, science, and spirit of traditional Pacific Ocean exploration. It has two wa‘a (voyaging canoes): the modern Hikianalia, which has erased its carbon footprint, and the Hokulea, which proved Polynesians didn’t just drift to Hawaii—they navigated by the stars and other ancient seafaring techniques. Launched in 1975, this lovely vessel helped inspire a cultural revival. Hokulea completed a round-the-world voyage in June 2017, traveling approximately 40,300 nautical miles and visiting 150 ports. She is now sailing the islands, keeping the heritage and ancient wayfinding skills of Hawaii alight, while also sharing a message about sustainability. Check its website to catch up with the crew!
Stock up on sake, wasabi, and high-end soba noodles at this Japanese supermarket chain, the largest in the U.S. It stocks adorable prefab sweets, like Pocky chocolate-coated biscuit sticks, along with Honolulu‘s hottest new donuts at MoDo. Made with mochi—a sticky-sweet rice flour—these fresh pon de ring pastries sport thick glazes like kurogoma (black sesame) and hojicha-roasted tea, alongside more familiar flavors like chocolate, strawberry, and lilikoi (passionfruit). Owner Chris Watanabe spent three years in Japan, swooning over his local Mister Donut shop, before recreating these delicacies back home. Other kiosks in the mini-food-court peddle sushi, ramen, rice balls, and tempura.
This spacious North Shore eatery and watering hole riffs on the beloved Honolulu original. It makes a strong showing in the “pupu” (appetizer) department with nibbles like poke, pot stickers, kālua-pig fried rice, Korean-style chicken wings, and nut wraps in buttercup lettuce. Cool down with a light, refreshing cocktail unique to this location, such as the Hokulani (citrus, Three Olives vodka, and elderflower liqueur, splashed with soda) or the Hawaii Five-Bo (strawberry daiquiri with Bacardi rum, habañero syrup, and piña colada foam). As with many O‘ahu eateries, the prices can seem a bit more Manhattan-stiletto than “flip-flop surfer bar.” But the flavors and charming service tend to carry the day! (Note: it’s a short stroll to the public restrooms, involving some unlit steps at night. Plan ahead.)
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Once the sacred retreat of King Kamehameha, who unified Hawaii, Ko Olina now also welcomes guests to the new Four Seasons Resort Oahu. Chef Ryo Takatsuka marries local flavors to Capri’s at this romantic restaurant, where outdoor tables soak up views of the sunset and stars. Wine Spectator gave it a 2017 award of excellence for its list, which runs especially strong on French, Italian, and Californian vintages. But don’t let that distract from its superb cocktail options like the Pompelmo (gin, grapefruit oleo, aromatic bitters, and egg white) or the Spritzer della Casa (Aperol, strawberries, Cocchi Americano Rosato, and basil tincture, finished with prosecco). The bar also serves an indulgent array of nonalcoholic drinks, including the Tutti Santi (Oahu passionfruit and Hawaiian honey graced with lime and sea salt).
Upscale food halls are having their day and here James Beard-winner and Michelin-starred chef Michael Mina takes a star turn. Of special note is the Myna Bird cocktail bar, inspired by Don the Beachcomber, the joint that kicked off the 1960s tiki craze. Expect rum, pineapple, and little paper umbrellas, of course, but also fusion touches like mezcal! Save space on your camera, as bartenders don’t hold back on the presentation. Strong, thoughtfully balanced drinks roll out in everything from cantaloupes to conch shells. Don’t miss the two-person, crowning glory of the Pacific Rim section: the Abandon Ship! It blends together two rums, chai tea, passion fruit syrup, Benedictine, and lemon.
Dive deep into island lassitude with afternoon tea at the Moana Surfrider, the Victorian-era hotel nicknamed “The First Lady of Waikīkī.” Grab an open-air table and sample one of six locally crafted teas, ranging from Lemon Rooibos to Moana Sunset, a mix of sweet mango and tangy ohelo berries. The $45 classic service includes savories like duck prosciutto, “furikake” salmon, and a caramel cream puff with black sea salt. Not to mention green tea sorbet and a curd made from lilikoi (passionfruit) and Devonshire cream. Kick things up a bit with a nonalcoholic pomegranate fizz or a Poema sparkling brut rosé!