Stroll the backstreets of Satwa, a working-class neighborhood where locals and expats live in modest, sometimes ramshackle, houses with colorful iron gates and peeling paint. Crimson bougainvillea falls over the white walls, chickens scratch about the dusty lanes, and residents can often be seen cooking and eating in the courtyards, or playing cricket or soccer in the vacant sandy lots. On the main streets, you’ll find textile stores and tailor shops, simple eateries, and hole-in-the-wall bakeries where you can buy piping-hot flatbread straight out of wood-fired ovens for one dirham (about 25 cents).