Jumeirah Dar Al Masyaf, with its villa-style retreats and 24-hour butler service, is one of Dubai’s must-stay resorts.
Courtesy of Jumeirah
This article was originally published in November 2024 and most recently updated on September 22, 2026.
In the 11 years I’ve lived in Dubai, I’ve seen firsthand how new skyscrapers, roads, bridges, and even beaches can materialize almost overnight. But I’ve been more impressed by the city’s growth in gastronomy, art, and culture. When I moved here, Dubai still seemed to be looking outward for inspiration. The “best” restaurants in town were imported concepts from globally renowned chefs, the arts scene was in its infancy, and the shopping malls were filled with the same premium brands you’d find in any other major city.
If you want ultra-luxury hotels, chichi beach clubs, and supercars, Dubai is still the place to find them. Still, there’s a different energy at play here now, brought on by a burgeoning confidence in the homegrown and homemade. You’ll find it in the neighborhood coffee shops, the increasingly diverse museum scene, and the independent restaurants where talented chefs use fresh ingredients grown around the United Arab Emirates. This city has truly begun to figure out what it wants to be. Here’s how to enjoy it all over four perfect days.
Day 1: Dive deep into heritage and culture
Mirzam puts its chocolate-making process on display, letting visitors see how products get made from bean to bar.
Courtesy of Mirzam Chocolate
- Emirati breakfast trays at Arabian Tea House
- Coffee and gelato by the creek at Mazmi Coffee & More
- Comfort food and roasted rice soft serve at Middle Child
- Date and honeycomb chocolates at Mirzam
- Books and Arab-designed housewares at the Jameel Arts Centre gift shop
- The spice and gold souks across Dubai Creek
- Wind-tower houses in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood
- A one-dirham abra ride across Dubai Creek
- Regional galleries at Alserkal Avenue
Morning: Dubai Creek, where it all began
Get acquainted with the city’s history in the Bur Dubai district. The city was born here, near Dubai Creek, thanks to protected waters that welcomed incoming trading boats. Housed in heritage buildings alongside the inlet, the Al Shindagha Museum presents exhibitions on pearl diving in the UAE and the role that perfume has played in Emirati culture.
In the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood, a 20-minute walk down the creek, you’ll find century-old houses topped by traditional wind towers. Some of these structures have been repurposed as small museums, cafés, or shops. Sit beneath the sheltering tree at Arabian Tea House and dive into an Emirati breakfast tray loaded with local favorites like saffron-infused vermicelli and cardamom, date molasses, and oven-fresh flatbread.
Next, wander over to the XVA Hotel, located in one of the heritage houses, to check out the exhibitions in its courtyard café and art gallery. The nearby Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding offers tours and coffee chats to give visitors a deeper understanding of local culture.
The Old Souk is a few minutes away on foot. If you need a break from the persistent vendors proffering souvenirs, grab a coffee and a gelato at Mazmi Coffee & More, a waterside café on the edge of the souk run by an Emirati Italian couple. They recently opened a second location a 10-minute stroll away in another beautifully restored historical home. I love to drink coffee and read in the serene courtyard.
Get out on the water, too. The little wooden abra boats that cross Dubai Creek offer one of the best journeys in town—and, at one dirham (the equivalent of 27 cents, paid in cash to the boat driver), the cheapest. You can cross to the Deira side to visit the city’s spice and gold souks. It’s also possible to rent your own abra by the hour.
Afternoon: Waterside art
Take a 20-minute drive to the Jameel Arts Centre, one of Dubai’s most thought-provoking cultural destinations, where there’s also an interactive outdoor sculptural playground to keep the kids entertained. Running until October 4, 2026, is Global Positioning System, an exhibition exploring contested topographies, changing landscapes, and transportation infrastructure.
The gift shop is a fine place to pick up books on important regional topics like architecture, society, and migration, as well as souvenirs, apparel, and housewares by Arab designers.
Evening: More art, dinner, and chocolate in Western Dubai
Grab a cab to Mirzam, a chocolate factory, café, and boutique in the Al Quoz Industrial Area run by Chief Chocolate Officer Kathy Johnston, a long-term resident. Dubai residents come to pick up sweet gifts, drop the kids at chocolate workshops, and dive into scoops of cocoa-rich soft serve made with Mirzam chocolate by the local ice cream brand Canvas. All the bars, truffles, and treats, made with ingredients like dates and Emirati honeycomb, are inspired by stories of ancient Arabian trading routes. Try the carefully selected coffee, chocolate mousse, and pastries from sister bakery Birch.
From Mirzam, it’s a 10-minute drive to Alserkal Avenue, a warehouse neighborhood of art galleries, cafés, concept stores, and the art-house theater Cinema Akil. Butheina Kazim, the cinema’s founder, recommends the gallery the Third Line. “It’s a space that has long celebrated regional artists with remarkable dedication and visionary exhibitions that bravely push boundaries and defy conventions,” she says.
Other art spaces worth visiting include eL Seed Related, which showcases the mixed media of the French Tunisian artist eL Seed; Zawyeh Gallery, dedicated to supporting emerging and established Palestinian artists; Efie Gallery, focusing on art from Africa and the African diaspora; and Aisha Alabbar Gallery, a platform for Emirati artists.
This is also a great place for dinner: Middle Child, opened in September 2025 by food blogger and chef Lynn Hazim, promises comfort food and a friendly neighborhood vibe as well as an excellent selection of cookbooks and a small gourmet grocery with items such as Palestinian za’atar, Maldon sea salt, and Portuguese canned sardines. Get the labneh yuzukosho dip and the pappardelle Bolognese with five-hour slow-cooked beef ragù, followed by the roasted-rice soft-serve ice cream topped with puffed rice. I’ve driven across town just for the ice cream.
Other worthwhile spots along Alserkal Avenue include Lila Molino + Café for tamales, tostadas, and tacos; Kokoro for hand-rolled temaki sushi; and the Growhouse by One Life Kitchen and Cafe, a cavernous warehouse space with its own indoor farm. Digital nomads and arty types hang out here nibbling salads, sandwiches, and pizzas, such as the Fenelope Cruz, topped with caramelized fennel, leeks, and mushrooms.
Day 2: The great outdoors—yes, in Dubai
About an hour from Dubai, Hatta’s Hollywood-style sign rises above the rugged Hajar Mountains.
Photo by Abed Ismail/Unsplash
- Coffee in the mountains at Hatta Wild café
- A six-mile hike through Mushrif National Park
- Hiking, biking, and kayaking in Hatta
- A sunset desert safari with Platinum Heritage
Morning: Parks and mountains
Contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to venture far outside the city for nature. Ahmad Al Marri, founder of Canvas Gelato, one of Dubai’s favorite ice cream makers, loves taking early morning walks on the Mushrif Park hiking trail, 10 minutes from Dubai International Airport. “It’s six miles with some fairly steep uphills, and for two hours you feel as if you’re partially in the desert and partially in the forest,” he says. “Only the occasional airplane reminds you that you’re still in the city.”
You can also visit the small town of Hatta, long a popular weekend escape for Dubai residents. About a 90-minute drive away in the Hajar Mountains, it offers hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, and kayaking among rugged peaks. Kathy Johnston says she’ll even drive out here for a coffee. “I love going out for an early morning drive to Hatta Wild café. Their baristas and their coffee are always excellent, and their cute cups have a beautiful illustration of the mountains on them,” she says. It’s a completely unexpected side of Dubai that many visitors miss. There’s even a Hollywood-esque sign perched atop a ridge.
Afternoon and evening: Desert dunes and starry skies
The heat can be intense during the day, but you can’t visit Dubai and not go out into the dunes. Several operators organize sophisticated sunset camp experiences: Platinum Heritage loads guests into Land Rovers to tour the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, where you’re likely to spot gazelles and Arabian oryx. Some safaris also include stargazing. Evening camp experiences involve music, food, falconry, and henna dyeing.
Day 3: A city of superlatives and glamour
Atlantis, The Palm’s coral-hued towers sit beside one of the world’s largest water parks.
Photo courtesy of Lloyd Alozie/Pexels
- Breakfast on the Burj Khalifa’s 122nd floor at At.mosphere
- Chef Izu Ani’s beachside fare at Maison de la Plage
- Modern Japanese and award-winning cocktails at Mimi Kakushi
- Food trucks and sunbeds at Kite Beach
- Seaside restaurants and clubs at J1 Beach
- A 50th-floor infinity pool at Aura Skypool
Morning: Breakfast from atop the world’s tallest building
Dubai is famous for its extremes—it is home to the world’s biggest water park, the world’s highest 360-degree infinity pool, the world’s deepest diving pool, and, of course, the world’s tallest building, the 2,720-foot Burj Khalifa. Head to the world’s highest restaurant, At.mosphere, on the tower’s 122nd floor. Many visitors go at night to see the city lights, but I find it more interesting during the day when you can see the lay of the land. Breakfast up here feels like a secret and is less busy (and more affordable) than afternoon tea or dinner.
Afternoon: Sun and sand
On weekends, practically everyone heads to the beach, but go on a weekday and you’ll have plenty of space. Popular public options include the family-friendly Kite Beach, which has food trucks, changing facilities, and sunbed rentals, although extensive offshore construction is disturbing the ambience these days. Palm West Beach, on the trunk of the Palm Jumeirah, is another popular option with more of a party feel, views of Dubai Marina’s skyscrapers, and a lineup of restaurants and beach clubs. The poolside recliners and cabanas at Sān Beach make for stylish lounging, and Maison de la Plage is a relaxed spot for rosé and food by local star chef Izu Ani.
Beach clubs are booming in the Jumeirah 1 neighborhood, where the new J1 Beach is home to multiple seaside restaurants and clubs. Sirene Beach by Gaia is a chic spot for good Greek food, cocktails, and shoreside relaxing and Gitano dishes out modern Mexican food and drink. And while it’s not actually on the sea, for a truly superlative “beach club” experience, head to Aura Skypool, a sky-high 360-degree infinity pool that wraps around the 50th floor of the Palm Tower on the Palm Jumeirah. It’s influencer central, but the views are unbeatable.
Evening: Dine with a dash of glamour
Dubai is known for liking to look good, and nowhere is this truer than at its restaurants. Certainly, some offer more style than substance, but many manage to balance both: At Mimi Kakushi, sultry interiors inspired by the Jazz Age in Osaka set the stage for creative modern Japanese cuisine. This is Dubai’s only spot on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, and when you order a cocktail you’ll see why. Try the Shadrach, a gin martini served inside a block of ice chilled to -4℉. Mimi Kakuishi also has excellent mocktails.
After dinner, head downstairs for a nightcap at the Pisco Bar at always scene-y Coya. You can’t go wrong with the original pisco sour, but the variations with ingredients like sriracha, pickled jackfruit brine, and purple yam soda are also worth trying.
Day 4: A food safari through the city
- Levantine breakfast at Sufret Maryam
- Thalis on banana leaves at Ikkayees
- Syrian-inspired tasting menus at Orfali Bros
- Fresh fish, produce, and spices at the Waterfront Market
- A lunchtime food crawl through the Karama neighborhood
Morning: A traditional breakfast and a stroll through a food market
Start with a Levantine breakfast at Sufret Maryam by Palestinian chef Salam Daqqaq. Located along Al Wasl Road, home to many of the city’s most popular homegrown dining spots, the restaurant serves eggs, labneh, Nabulsi cheese, halvah, and more. Top it off with crispy falafel and a piping hot flatbread topped with za’atar or spiced mincemeat.
Home cooks in the know shop at the Waterfront Market, about a 15-minute drive away. Opened in 2017, it replaced the old Deira Fish Market with a spotless, sprawling 120,000-square-foot space where brightly lit stalls are piled high with fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, spices, and local fish and seafood. Fishermen still unload the day’s catch here each morning.
Lunch: A food safari in Karama
Home to nearly every nationality in the world, Dubai offers opportunities to seek out lesser-known cuisines. The streets of the Karama neighborhood are filled with low-key restaurants serving regional Indian food. Stop by City Makani, where Malabari curries and seafood are delivered to boat-shaped outdoor tables; Ikkayees for lunchtime thalis served on banana leaves; and Aaraamam for afternoon chai with bonda potato balls, samosas, and sweet laddus.
Evening: Award-winning homegrown favorites
Three homegrown Dubai restaurants sit among the top five spots of the 50 Best Restaurants list for the MENA region, and you won’t go wrong with any of them.
Chef Neha Mishra’s Kinoya, in the Greens, serves unforgettable ramens, including a tasty, umami-packed vegetarian version. On the Palm Jumeirah, Trèsind Studio has received three Michelin stars for chef Himanshu Saini’s extraordinary multicourse degustation journeys through modern Indian cuisine. And Orfali Bros, on Al Wasl Road in the Jumeirah 1 neighborhood, is a perennially popular bistro run by Syrian brothers Mohammad, Wasim, and Omar Orfali with multicourse tasting menus inspired by their roots and travels. Dishes like kebab bel karaz—a wagyu beef kebab with sour cherry, parsley, pine nuts, and cinnamon—and an Aleppo street bun with sujuk sausage, toum (garlic sauce), and pickled haskorieh peppers have proven to be instant classics.
The trio recently opened an adjacent sister restaurant, Three Bros, a casual spot with à la carte items like a bite-size potato topped with caviar and the unmissable cake sando, a slice of perfectly formed PBJ between two slices of fluffy sponge bread.
Where to stay: Dubai hotels
Dubai has an abundance of top hotels. Here are three of our favorites.
Getting around Dubai
While Dubai is not known as a walking city, some areas are designed for wandering on foot, including the Kite Beach boardwalk, Jumeirah Beach Walk in the Dubai Marina, and the older neighborhoods around Dubai Creek. Public transportation—including metro, tram, bus, and ferry—is spotlessly clean and efficient. The ferry is like a mini cruise, sailing past many of Dubai’s architectural marvels, including the Burj Al Arab and the Palm Jumeirah.
Visitors will need to rely on taxis and ride-share apps like Uber and Careem to reach some areas. Fortunately, prices are reasonable compared to other global cities, although traffic can be bad. Try to avoid crossing the city at peak rush hour, if you can.
