Rome

Rome, as they say, was not built in a day. Nor can travelers really experience the Eternal City in a day—or even a year. Rome’s numerous and diverse neighborhoods require some time to fully explore. The best place to start? With a stroll through the city’s ancient wonders, including the Forum, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon, followed by a perusal of the food vendors at the “new” Testaccio Market--the location changed in 2012 but, this being Rome, it will always be the “new” location--and a tour of the traditional restaurants and watering holes of the Centro Storico. But no matter how brief your trip, be sure to save time for the old Jewish ghetto, the boutique and wine bar–rich Monti neighborhood, and the broad avenues leading to the Spanish Steps. And, of course, stopping for a shot of espresso and a few scoops of gelato is practically a requirement.

ROME, ITALY - MAY 05, 2015 : Unidentified people at street restaurant in Rome, Italy.

ROME, ITALY - MAY 05, 2015 : Unidentified people at street restaurant in Rome, Italy.

Photo by Boris B/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Rome?

Although summer is peak tourist season, it’s also the time of year when much of city life is lived outdoors, and the warm temperatures and long days can be worth the crowds. However, if you’re looking for a less crowded experience and milder weather, the months of March, April (except for Holy Week), and October are your best bets.

How to get around Rome

From Rome’s Leonardo Da Vinci-Fiumicino Airport—the largest in Italy—there are many ways to get to the center of the Eternal City, including by taxi. (They all charge a city-mandated flat fare of €48 for trips within the bounds of the ancient city walls.) It helps to familiarize yourself with your hotel’s location before arrival. You can also come by train; national rail connections arrive at Stazione Termini, while the privately owned Italo Train service arrives at Stazione Tiburtina.

Rome is a very walkable city and also has several public transportation options, including a limited metro system and dozens of bus lines. Taxis are readily available, but they must be caught from a taxi stand or booked by phone—it’s not customary to hail cabs in the street.

Can’t miss things to do in Rome

Don’t miss Rome’s best pizza by the slice (and, therefore, the world’s), at Pizzarium just north of the Vatican Museums. Gabriele Bonci celebrates traditional ingredients and produce, yet combines them in a modern—and delicious—way.

Food and drink to try in Rome

Italy’s 20 regions have diverse food and wine cultures shaped by climate, terrain, and conquest. In Rome, expect to find dishes driven by cured pork, Pecorino Romano DOP, and offal. Pasta is taken very seriously here, and some dishes are specific to Rome, such as tonnarelli cacio e pepe (fresh pasta with cheese and black pepper), spaghetti alla carbonara (a rich dish, sauced with raw egg, cheese, black pepper, and guanciale or pancetta), and, for the adventurous, rigatoni alla pajata (rigatoni with lamb’s intestine). When it comes to meat dishes, lamb is very popular, especially around Easter, and is often roasted, as are offal dishes such as trippa alla romana, tripe stewed with tomatoes and mint. Travelers should not miss the traditional fried artichoke dish, carciofi all giudia (Jewish style), in season from February to May. Participate in a Savoring Rome Food Tour with AFAR’s partner, Context Travel, and get a taste of the ancient city’s cuisines, from gelato to pizza and from the daily open-air markets to artisanal shops to the restaurants of the Jewish Ghetto.

Culture in Rome

Of course, Rome’s culture is heavily steeped in history and tradition, and yet the city retains a youthfulness and vivacity that makes it one of the hippest destinations in Europe. In Rome, life is lived outdoors and thoroughly enjoyed, at a human pace. The ruins of the ancient city serve as a constant reminder to live in the moment, and the Roman passion for love and life is unique. During the summer, there are special evening events in Rome’s cultural sites, such as after-hours visits to the Vatican Museums on Fridays and opera performances at the Baths of Caracalla.

Rome hosts a tremendous number of festivals throughout the year, including Settimana della Cultura (Cultural Heritage Week) in the spring, and the Cinema Festa Internazionale di Roma (Rome’s film festival) in the fall. Also of interest is the Giornate FAI, when owners of historical homes open their doors to the public.

Local travel tips for Rome

Tipping is always appreciated but never required, though many restaurants in central Rome will expect outrageous tips from American travelers. As a rule of thumb, if you were very happy with the service at a restaurant, leave a couple of euros per person; at a pizzeria one euro per person is acceptable. No tipping is necessary at cafés with table service, though it is a Roman custom to leave 10 cents per coffee when it is taken standing at the bar. There is no need to tip taxi drivers, but hotel porters expect one to two euros per piece of luggage.

Practical Information

- Americans can travel in Rome (and the rest of Italy) up to 90 days as long as your passport is valid for six months after the date you’ll depart Italy. For trips longer than 90 days, you must get an Italian visa.
- A member of the European union, Italy uses the Euro.
- Italian standard voltage runs at 220v to 230v, and uses a two- or three-prong plug.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
The newly opened Corinthia Rome debuts in the former Bank of Italy building with a restaurant by prominent Milan chef Carlo Cracco and a spa in the old vault.
HOTELS
Rome’s hotel scene is as lively and varied as the city itself. Here are 21 places that let you experience the Eternal City in comfort and style.
Set inside a 17th-century noble residence in Rome, Orient Express La Minerva is the first hotel from the heritage luxury train brand.
The luxury rail operator known for restoring vintage cars into opulent accommodations is opening a hotel in a palatial residence that’s been re-envisioned by a star architect into an art deco–inspired gem.
Headed to Rome? These are the four new (and newly renovated) hotels to book for your next trip to the Eternal City.
AFAR’s picks for the 31 best new hotels in the world.
Hotels can introduce their guests to the creativity that surrounds them—and reveal canvases visitors may not otherwise see.
From a historic ship-turned-hotel docked in Edinburgh to the first Four Seasons in Greece, these are the 10 best new hotels opening across Europe in the new year.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
The Roscioli family, famous for their nearby bakery Antico Forno Roscioli, opened this restaurant/wine bar/gourmet shop in 2005. Book several days in advance for lunch or dinner and be sure to request a ground floor table near the back of the dining room, the best of the available dining areas. Start with a selection of cured meats and a plate of burrata, then move on to spaghetti alla carbonara, one of the best in town, therefore the world. The wine list is outstanding and has surprisingly affordable labels from every Italian region. If you can’t snag a table, pop in for an apertif before dinner service.
At this speakeasy-inspired cocktail bar near Chiesa Nuova, hipster bartenders pour and shake American classics like Manhattans, Sazeracs and Old-Fashioneds in a smoky lounge. To gain admittance, make a booking and come armed with the secret password, a clue to which can be found on the venue’s website. Once you enter, you’ll be shown to a table or barstool, handed a menu, and asked to fill out a membership card. Service can be slow and snarky, but drinks are worth the wait. Cash only.
If you want to meet the kindest cheesemonger in Rome, visit Roberto at Antica Caciara in the ‘you-must-cross-the-Tiber’ Trastevere section of town. Stock up on Pecorino Romano (that amazing hard grating cheese used in the standard Roman fare Cacio/Pepe pasta) and sliced cured meats. And if you are still hungry, you can grab a bag of handmade pasta before Roberto kisses you ‘buonasera’.
After a 2017 renovation, Rome’s historic Hotel Eden re-emerged with an extensive face-lift. The 128-year-old hotel’s marble and gold lobby hints at the 98 opulent guest rooms that have been refreshed with gold detailing and original artwork. The new spa uses products from the Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, founded in 1612. The top-floor restaurant, La Terrazza, serves Italian cuisine with views of St. Peter’s Basilica.

Overall, if you’re looking for a luxurious stay in a beautiful, 5-star hotel, this Roman hotel is hard to beat.
One of Rome‘s best bakeries and among the city’s most historic institutions, Antico Forno Roscioli is a family-run business. Depending on the time of day, you might find patriarch Marco or his son Pierluigi hard at work. There are a variety of baked goods, including pizza by the slice, flatbreads, loaves, and sweets. The pizza bianca (flatbread brushed with olive oil) and pizza rossa (crispy flatbread dressed with light tomato sauce) are sensational, and the pane di Lariano (crusty sourdough bread) is the best in Rome. Be sure to check out their wine bar/restaurant/gourmet food shop—called, simply, Roscioli—nearby.
A few blocks from Villa Ada and the Via Salaria, Gelateria Fatamorgana sells Maria Agnese Spagnuolo’s edible works of art. Each flavor is made from all natural ingredients, without chemical additives or artificial flavors, and many are lactose free. Spagnuolo’s whimsical creations are often seasonal and always draw on quality produce, spices and herbs. In the summer, try panacea (ginseng, almond milk, and mint) with ananas e zenzero (pineapple and ginger). There are a number of chocolate variations ideal for winter, including Kentucky (dark chocolate and tobacco). Fatamorgana also offers gluten free gelato, a rarity in Rome where so many shops use additives containing gluten. There are three other branches.
This historic bakery in Campo de’ Fiori serves good pizza bianca and excellent pizza rossa, as well as assorted slices, cookies, and pastries. The neighboring annex across the alley (Vicolo del Gallo 14) serves sandwiches and baked goods. Drop in during August and September for a taste of the seasonal treat pizza prosciutto e fichi (pizza bianca filled with savory slices of prosciutto crudo and sweet, overripe figs).
This pub, owned by the Piedmont-based Baladin brewing company and Lazio’s own Birra del Borgo, opened in September 2009 and was quickly canonized as the best place to drink Italian beers in Rome. There are over 120 labels to choose from, ranging from well-known Italian brewers like Baladin and Birra del Borgo to more obscure producers like Lover Beer and Troll; there is also a handful of American beers such as Sierra Nevada and Brooklyn Brewery. In addition to 100 bottled beers, there are anywhere from 20-30 beers on tap. The outgoing staff is happy to make recommendations. The food menu includes salads, sandwiches, potato croquettes, pasta and homemade potato chips.
If one single space encapsulates the Roman Empire, it would be Palazzo Massimo, Rome’s multilevel museum housing one of Italy’s richest collections of antiquities. The entire history of Rome, from the rise of the Republic to its imperial transition to its fall, is told through sculpture, mosaic, frescoes (watercolor paintings), and coins. Get to know generations of emperors by checking out their marble busts, then hang out in the 1st-century Villa of Livia dining room of Caesar Augustus’s wife. Note: Palazzo Massimo is part of the National Museum circuit, which means ticket holders can also access three more national museums (Terme di Diocleziano, Palazzo Altemps, and the Crypta Balbi) over a three-day period.
Just behind the Pantheon hides the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a gem in its own right. The only Gothic church in Rome’s center, it’s a breath of fresh air from over-the-top Baroque opulence. Plus, it has gorgeous frescoes by Filippo Lippi (an early Renaissance master), the body of Italy’s patron saint Catherine of Siena, the tomb of painter Fra Angelico, and a statue done—at least partly—by Michelangelo himself.