Paris

A hub for hedonists, a wellspring of inspiration for artists, and a haven for history buffs: Paris is a fantasy destination for millions of travelers each year. The storied bakeries, iconic museums, and corner cafés feel anchored in another time, but the zeitgeist of the city leans forward into a dynamic, multicultural food scene dominated by young French and foreign talents. It is precisely this juxtaposition of old and new that makes Paris the perpetually perfect place to visit. So go exploring, get lost, eat until your belly hurts—and then do it all over again. The City of Light shines on.

Paris-filip-mishevski-eZ2aHgA6Xds-unsplash.jpg

Photo by Filip Mishevski/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Paris?

You’re likely to be disappointed if you arrive expecting the image of springtime in Paris that you see in Hollywood films. In the last several years, the months between April and June have reported below-average temperatures and record-high precipitation—a far cry from the endless days of sunshine in the movies. The weather is wholly unreliable, which foils many travelers’ ambitions for a dry early-season trip. Late summer and early fall typically yield the warmest sojourns (though the summers in general appear to be getting warmer), plus this is when Paris is most culturally active, unveiling new exhibits and welcoming the return of the some of the most anticipated festivals. December and January provide a more festive experience, with Christmas markets lining the well-heeled boulevards and twinkling lights illuminating the city’s boutiques. All weather aside, there is hardly a bad time to visit Paris, rain or shine.

How to get around Paris

From either of the city’s two airports, the RER B, a regional rail line, is the fastest way to reach the city center. Taxis are convenient, but they can be costly.

Getting around: There are few cities as walkable as Paris. For further distances, le métro is the quickest and most reliable means of getting to and from your destinations (sometimes faster than a taxi). Google Maps is a reliable way of figuring out which train to catch. Ubers operate here.

Paris also has excellent bike infrastructure. On nice days, grab a bike share with Vélib, the city’s successful bike-share program, or Lime.

Can’t miss things to do in Paris

– Whether at the peak of summer or in the moodiness of a winter’s night, nothing elicits a chorus of oohs and ahs like a leisurely after-dinner stroll across the city’s iconic bridges and along the banks of the Seine River. Amble across the Pont des Arts toward the Institut de France and continue along the docks of the river, watching the Bâteaux Mouches glide by and illuminate the river with their lights. Keep wandering until you reach a spot to pause for an unobstructed view of a twinkling Eiffel Tower (every hour, on the hour, after sundown). It’s free and absolutely stunning at all times of year.

– If time allows, you really shouldn’t miss visiting the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, and Sacré-Cœur, or taking a stroll through the Luxembourg Gardens.

– Following the devastating fire in April 2019, Notre-Dame Cathedral remains closed for restoration work. Officials have said the forecourt in front of the church could open as early as March 2020, but for now, you’ll only be able to snap a picture from afar.

Culture in Paris

Every international city has its iconic landmarks and cultural institutions. In Paris, most travelers would cite the Louvre as the must-visit art stop, but curious visitors should look beyond the usual suspects and explore places like the Musée de la Vie Romantique, the Jewish Art and History Museum, the Cinémathèque Française, and the Fondation Cartier.

Dive a little deeper into a fascinating chapter of 20th-century Parisian history with a historian-led Context walking tour that focuses on the city’s occupation by Nazi Germany, a time marked by unrest, bravery, and heroism. – Given the Parisians’ well-documented penchant for celebrating art, culture, and design in all its forms, you can count on a packed schedule of festivals all year long. Whether for a neighborhood street parade or larger-scale happenings like Paris Plage and Nuit Blanche, it’s worth planning your vacation around the city’s celebratory timetable.

Local travel tips for Paris

  • Always greet shop owners and restaurant staff with “bonjour” when entering and before asking a question or making a request.
  • When metro train cars are crowded, give up your folding seat and stand.
  • A baguette is always better with cheese—the older the cheese, the better.
  • Do not overlook the city’s farmers’ markets as potential lunch spots.
  • Macaron loyalties teeter between Ladurée and Pierre Hermé, so try both and decide for yourself.
  • The Champs-Élysées has few redeeming qualities and is considered the Times Square of Paris by locals. Skip it and opt for a bird’s-eye view from the top of the Arc de Triomphe.

Practical Information

  • U.S. visitors to France do not need a visa for stays of less than 90 days.
  • France uses type E and C plugs, so visitors from the U.S. will need an adapter.
  • France’s official currency is the euro.
  • The official language is French, though you’re likely to hear several languages spoken, as Paris is an international city.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These 19 hotels around the world immerse you in their destinations while carving out space for unhurried time together.
These are the 20 best luxury hotels and resorts in France outside of Paris, according to insiders—whether you’re seeking a bucolic Provençal getaway or an immersion in a bygone era of the French Riviera.
These are the top places to stay in the City of Light.
Not all Eiffel Tower views are created equal. These hotels prove why only some are worth the splurge.
This curated list of “maisons,” boutiques, and family-run hotels showcase the kind of style and attitude only Parisian hotels can deliver.
Once home to artists and writers, Paris’s Left Bank still delivers cobblestoned charm and leafy boulevards—and these timeless hotels will put you in the center of it all.
Stylish, central, and surprisingly affordable—Locke’s new Paris hotel brings townhouse elegance to the Latin Quarter.
Palace hotels are the highest distinction a hotel can achieve in France. Here’s what they are—and what makes them so special.
The French capital is filled with stylish hotels that are big on personality—and easy on the bank account.
Airbnb has launched a new category called “Icons” for its most over-the-top stays and experiences (Prince’s “Purple Rain” house, anyone?). It also added a new feature to make booking group trips easier.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
For years now, the neighborhood between the Palais-Royal and the Opéra Garnier has been a hangout for Japanese and Korean ex-pats and visitors in Paris, with the Rue Sainte Anne as its culinary epicenter. Lined with Japanese restaurants and Korean groceries, this is where to come for a ‘break’ (if that’s even the right word) from steak-frites and macarons... When I lived in Paris, my Japanese neighbor told me about “Higuma,” which I subsequently introduced to all of my French friends. I’m glad to say that when I re-visited this ramen-house recently, it hadn’t lost its non-chic-charm. No sushi here--fresh hand-made noodles, donburi and curry will fill you up, along with perfectly steamed/fried gyoza--known here as ‘raviolis japonais.’ Grab a seat at the counter and watch your steaming bowl come together. Lines are common at lunch-hour. And even though Higuma now has three locations in Paris, THIS is the original: no-nonsense and venerable in the 1st arrondissement... As for the spelling of ‘lamen’ for ‘ramen’ in this Parisian institution--just enjoy the L-R confusion. Here, slurping won’t be considered gauche...and remember, “bon appétit” = “itadakimasu” and “merci” = “arigato gozaimasu!”
There’s a new wave of wine bars in Paris, ones that champion natural wine (a step beyond organic) and serve artful small plates. Camille Fremont’s La Buvette (not to be confused with Buvette restaurant) is considered one of the best; the place has won lavish praise and an award from Le Fooding. Like a cozy annex to Camille’s own home, the bar benefits from the inherent cool factor that a slightly out-there location in the 11th confers. Despite the compact space, it never seems to be much trouble to pack in throngs of wine fans and curious passersby. Guests must consume a little snack (or casse-croûte in local parlance) to be able to drink but your experience will be better for it. Put your trust in Camille for the wine—mostly natural and only from wine producers she personally appreciates—and choose any of the stellar bites on offer (aged Gouda, dry sausage from Aubrac, sardines, butter beans). Bottles are available for purchase.
For Michelin-starred chef Eric Frechon, opening a 110-seat restaurant in the heart of Paris‘s busiest train station (Gare St.-Lazare) was effectively a way to reconnect with his democratic, bistro past. The Bristol Hotel chef is an avowed proponent of no-fuss, simple food executed to perfection. He jumped at the chance to dedicate a space to his special brand of cooking when he was approached by the SNCF transport company to create a restaurant worthy of the station’s newly renovated image—a destination for transients and locals alike, open morning, noon, and night. Frechon stepped in to offer a wildly accessible, haute casual menu of French comfort classics in a gorgeous, lofty space that is equal parts café-bar and swish restaurant. In addition to the full menu, expect daily specials, a robust wine selection, and a standout dessert that will have you returning time and again: the Paris-Deauville, a sweet homage to Normandy, his birthplace, in the form of a caramelized, cold soufflé. The classic brasserie has experienced considerable decline in recent years, but with Lazare, Frechon revives the iconic lieu de vie with deft style.
The last time Paris ran out of bread, there was a revolution. Now the price of baguettes and the days bakeries close are monitored to ensure affordable, fresh bread is available in every neighborhood every day of the week. Pôilane is popular for its remarkable country loafs (pain de campagne) and Du Pain et des Idées for their baguettes. Gerard Mulot and Blé Sucré are particularly famous for viennoiseries which include croissants, pain au chocolat and apple turnovers that locals usually enjoy over breakfast. Pâtisseries with tantalizing names like Pâtisserie des Rêves (the dream pastry shop) or the friendly Joséphine, display traditional eclairs, tarts and macarons next tempting desserts that look almost too pretty to eat.
From New York to Tokyo, the world’s food scene is heavily informed by outside influences. In Paris, this translates to cuisine that isn’t narrowly French but rather brimming with ethnic flavors. That includes the unequivocally popular and omnipresent tastes from Italy, though they tend to vary drastically in price and quality. When I learned about Come A Casa (literally, like at home), which is located just off of the Place Léon Blum near Voltaire in the 11th, I knew I needed to see whether it ranked among the city’s few worthy Italian joints. This 15-cover jewel box of a restaurant fits the bill perfectly. The menu is compact, dominated largely by fresh antipasti and a lasagna and pasta dish that changes daily. The wines are Italian and should absolutely be paired with the meal. But what’s on the plate is only part of the charm of this Tuscan trattoria. Owner Flavia Federici is not only credited with turning out flavorful dishes capable of transporting each diner straight to Tuscany but as the mastermind behind the standout design. Trained as an architect, Flavia left no detail unconsidered when laying out the small space. The elevated, open kitchen lords over the tiny dining room, appointed with vintage furnishings (including school desks), serving dishes and shelving to house wine, pasta, sauces and other goods that guests can purchase to take home. Come A Casa is warm, welcoming and guaranteed to delight. Just don’t forget to order the stracciatella.
In France, sparkling wine isn’t just for special occasions, it’s an everyday luxury. At least that’s what you’ll learn after a sampling of some 130 vintages at Dilettantes, a wine shop/bar specializing in bubbly. The tastings are hosted by one of 25 winemakers and take place in a gorgeous, 17th-century vaulted cellar. For a more in-depth course on pairing champagne at different moments of the meal, Dilettantes also offers a private oenology workshop (minimum 8 people) that will leave you well-versed in taste.
Another hot spot in Pigalle located in yet another former brothel. Dirty Dick, despite the name, isn’t a place of perdition but the city’s second tiki bar, where Polynesian folklore and the American fifties come to life in the details: lounge music that teeters between surf-rock and exotica, barmen in Hawaiian tops, bamboo stools, Maori sculptures, and a jungle-inspired smoking room. The cocktails, of course, are tropical and range from classic (mai tai) to homemade drinks like the Amazombie served for four people in a smoking crater. Should the bar be jammed, which is likely in the late hours of the night, head directly across the street to Glass, the other leading cocktail bar on the street.
The Marais has no shortage of charming stores, designer boutiques and international labels but one of my favorite additions to the neighborhood is Delphine Pariente’s namesake shop. The designer trained with Christian Lacroix, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Sonia Rykiel before launching her own business on rue de Turenne. With mid-century modern furnishings and vintage accessories, the shop looks like a true home. While those pieces are for sale, the focus of her shop is her romantic, somewhat curious jewelry which she produces from old objects. Charms, medallions engraved with messages and quotes, gorgeous earrings and bracelets share the space with old school typewriters, alarm clocks and other knick-knacks. This spot is popular among young Parisians so be sure to stop in and pick up something beautiful before skipping town.
Opinionated, obsessive designer Didier Ludot has one of the city’s best collections of vintage couture and accessories. If you’re looking for that perfect Courrèges dress or a mint-condition Hermès Plume bag (one of Ludot’s personal favorites), head to his eponymous boutique in the Jardin du Palais Royal. On offer is haute couture, classic handbags, as well as impeccably restored vintage furs.
COS
H&M’s first stand-alone brand debuted in Europe in 2007, selling minimalist, architectural basics that evoke the aesthetic of luxury house Céline—albeit with a few zeroes knocked off the price tag. There are plans to bring the chain to the United States, but until then, Paris, with five shops sprinkled throughout town, is one of the best places to sample the goods. This appeared in the October 2013 issue.