Canada

Canada spans six time zones, and some say that it boasts the longest street in the world. This nation gave the world Leonard Cohen, Leslie Nielsen, Mounties, Tim Hortons, Superman, zippers, the light bulb, and the snowblower. This is a place where polar bears, poutine, and epic panoramas predominate. Canada’s wilderness beckons adventure-seekers from the world over, while the country’s cultural attractions, culinary marvels, hockey rinks, and artistic landmarks thrill visitors of all stripes.

Vancouver Canada totem pole

Jessie Beck

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Canada?

The best time to visit Canada depends on what you wish to experience. The snowy months of winter allow for world-class skiing, snowshoeing, and hockey games. Summer is ripe for sunseekers to explore both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts, the lakes of Ontario, and the wild country of the North. Spring turns the West into one gigantic flowerpot, while fall transforms Eastern Canada into a kaleidoscope of colors. Keep in mind that many Canadians travel during the summer months. Also, national parks and big cities attract thousands of visitors from the United States during school holidays and long weekends, when prices can soar in destinations like Toronto, Vancouver, Jasper, Montreal, Banff, Calgary, and Halifax.

How to get around Canada

Major international airports are spread across the country from Vancouver in the west to Halifax in the east. Many international visitors choose to arrive at U.S. border cities (e.g. Seattle, WA and Buffalo, NY) and then drive across the border. This can be a cheaper way of entering Canada, but be prepared for traffic and extended waits at border checkpoints during peak travel times.

Major cities like Toronto, Vancouver, Calgary, Montreal, and Halifax have excellent public transportation networks: taking the bus, riding the metro, or hailing a cab is a breeze. Smaller cities and rural towns are walkable, but you’ll need a car to get out into the countryside. Public transportation in and out of national parks is virtually nonexistent. The space between metro centers can seem daunting, so consider flying if you wish to cut down on travel times.

Food and drink to try in Canada

Canadian cuisine is as diverse as the country is expansive. On one city block—or on one menu—you may find restaurants serving Ukrainian, Chinese, Irish, German, Portuguese, Haitian, Nigerian, and Ethiopian dishes. Each province and city has its own culinary flair: you’ll find unique Western fare in Calgary and Edmonton, gastro-nouveau in Toronto and Vancouver, fine French dining in Montreal and Quebec City—and the best the ocean has to offer in Halifax, Charlottetown, and St. John.

Culture in Canada

Have you come for the great outdoors, or Winnipeg’s Folklorama? Perhaps you’re in town for Toronto’s MuslimFest, or you made the trek to quirky little Maxville, Ontario, for the Glengarry Highland Games. Massey Hall in Toronto has hosted the world’s largest musical acts for decades, while the Quebec Winter Carnival is Canada’s premiere winter event. The Edmonton International Fringe Festival, held every August, is the largest and oldest fringe fest in North America.

Canadians love to party. Canada Day (July 1) is celebrated from coast to coast, with Canadians and visitors packing public squares, stadiums, parks, and concert halls for massive festivals. The Calgary Stampede takes over Alberta’s largest city every July; Montreal’s International Jazz Festival (June 29–July 9) welcomes 2.5 million visitors each year; and Pride, Scotiabank Caribbean Carnival, The Canadian National Exhibition, and the Toronto International Film Festival bring revelry to Ontario’s capital.

Local travel tips for Canada

English is Canada’s common tongue, though French is spoken throughout Quebec and in many Atlantic cities. That said, you’ll hear nearly every other language in the big metro centers. The currency is the Canadian Dollar ($). Tipping is required (15%) in restaurants, and it is generally expected in taxis and hotels. ATMs are everywhere, and major credit cards are accepted across the country. Electricity is 110v.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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HOTELS
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Set high above the St. Lawrence on Cap Diamant, overlooking Old Québec, this imposing yet inviting landmark is as much a lodging as it is a tourist attraction, borne out of its reputation as the most photographed hotel in the world. Opened in 1893 by the Canadian Pacific Railway to drum up luxury riders for its trains, the castle-like Fairmont Le Château Frontenac feels every bit as grand today as it must have when Roosevelt and Churchill secretly hatched plans for the invasion of Normandy here in 1943—and it continues to be the hotel of choice for A-list celebrities and other notables. A $75 million renovation in 2014 updated the 611 rooms with a more contemporary feel, draping spaces in chic furnishings and soothing shades of gray and cream, plus butter-yellow or soft turquoise accents. The spa features seven treatment rooms adjacent to an indoor pool, whirlpool, steam rooms, and a gym, but the hotel has become a destination for its food: Champlain restaurant is helmed by acclaimed young chef Stéphane Modat and offers a modern take on Québécois cuisine alongside magnificent views, while 1608 Wine & Cheese Bar highlights local wines, cheeses, and charcuteries.
Ontario’s best and biggest ski resort may only offer 720 feet of vertical, but its width is remarkable. A sprawling public hill, Blue’s 36 trails have something for everyone—beginner slopes, gladed paths, steep racing pitches, and rolling open runs—including two terrain parks and a Superpipe. The laps might not be long, but four high-speed express chairlifts ensure they’ll be plentiful. And the apres is right below in the Village.
With five locations and a well-organized in-store digital database, the friendly staff of family-run Fair’s Fair used bookstore can easily find what you’re looking for, and they have the best selection of popular and hard-to-find books in the city. The cavernous basement of the Ninth Avenue location is for anyone who’s more interested in the journey than destination. They also offer cash for books you want to sell, or twice as much as in-store credit.
Definitely the coolest restaurant on the block, Model Milk, housed in a former dairy building, does eclectic fine dining in a rustic-hip setting (think exposed brick, and uncovered light bulbs dangling from salvaged wood). There’s nothing stuffy about Chef Justin Leboe’s menu of foie gras with smoked maple, and bacon-like steaks of Broek Acres pig with crushed edamame, apple, fennel, and celery. The best deal is the $35 prix fixe Sunday Supper, a full four-course meal served family style. While the menu varies, it doesn’t stray far from its soul food theme: romaine with chipotle and Stilton cheese, prawn ceviche, braised duck coleslaw, buttermilk fried chicken, plank-grilled mackerel, risotto-like jalapeño-cheddar grits, Mexican green beans, and hot and creamy potatoes. Besides the price tag, the best part is the blueberry shortcake for dessert.
Possibly the most important and influential publishers of graphic novels in the last 20 years, Drawn & Quarterly has a must-visit shop in the cool Mile End neighborhood. It sells work from the extensive D&Q catalog (which includes Joe Sacco, Lynda Barry, and Adrian Tomine) and from other publishers. Check out 184 Rue Beaubien by local graphic artist Cyril Doisneau.
This is a 5-star boutique hotel located in the heart of Montreal, across the street from the Centre Bell, home of Les Montréal Canadiens, and tucked along famed rue Sainte-Catherine. Was I blown away during my stay here? Yeah, and then some. After checking in, I was greeted by a frosty bucket filled with my favorite beer, tossed the curtains back to reveal the stunning view of downtown Montreal, then scrambled up to the 12th floor for a dip in the saltwater pool, and relaxed in the outdoor hot tub as the day rolled along. I rarely thought about leaving. I dined at La Coupole and had a few cocktails in the Wine Bar, and... well, that’s enough. Things got out of hand from there. I spent four nights at Hotel Crystal, and had what is to date my best hotel experience in my homeland.
Hunting poutine is hard work, but it can do serious damage to your waistline if you’re not careful. Call in at Fitz & Follwell and work off some of those excess curds on a bike, snow, or walking tour of Montreal. The shop is located on beautiful Avenue du Mont-Royal, and should serve to whet your appetite for all things bipedal. Montreal is one of Canada‘s most bike-friendly cities, and the folks at Fitz & Follwell Co. can help get you on your way.
My everyday diet goes off the rails when I visit Montreal. This is my favorite food town in the world, and I often begin an adventure with a visit to Patati Patata. Poutine for breakfast isn’t a healthy option, but the beer I drink with it has plenty of organic ingredients, so it’s basically a wash. I’ve made plenty of photographs in this place, but I thought this shot of one of the cooks prepping a takeout box perfectly captures the atmosphere; there’s nothing quite like waiting for that first bite. Don’t be put off by the lines; this diner is a Montreal institution, and a joint you can’t miss. But I do suggest you punch a new hole or two into your belt.
Place des Arts, the jewel of the Quartier des Spectacles in the center of town, is a cultural complex attached to the Musée d’art contemporain de Montréal that unites five performance spaces, including the Maison Symphonique de Montréal. It has two main performance arts spaces: Théâtre Maisonneuve, a nearly 1,500-seat modern-day rendition of a classical Italian theatre where dance organizations including Grands Ballets Canadiens regularly perform; Salle Wilfrid-Pelletier, which with just under 3,000 seats is better suited for big, boisterous Opéra de Montréal productions; and the smaller, 400-seat Cinquième Salle, home to series of shows by Danse Danse, among others. Photo: Susan Moss
This sprawling museum is located in four buildings near Battlefields Park—the most recent of them, the Pierre Lassonde pavilion, opened in 2016 and was designed by starchitect Rem Koolhaas’s OMA. The 25,000 works in its permanent collection cover the history of art in the province, beginning with the French colonial period and including artists who are still active today. The museum also holds one of the world’s most important collections of Inuit art, with some 100 pieces—mostly carvings in stone, whalebone, or ivory—on display at any one time. Temporary exhibitions focus on both local and international artists. If you have time for a sit-down meal, Tempéra Québecor—helmed by Marie-Chantal Lepage, one of Québec’s best-known chefs—is near the entrance of the new pavilion, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the grounds and the Grande Allée.