Bestia

Husband-and-wife team Genevieve Gergis and Ori Menashe are behind Bestia, an Italian haven that consistently ranks high on local “best of” lists. The decor follows the name—which translates to “beast” in Italian—with its wall of weapons and meat-hook chandeliers. There’s no wrong choice on this menu, but the roasted marrow bone and alla ‘nduja pizza are favorites for first-timers. Without a reservation, expect to wait at least an hour, even on a weeknight. If you’re looking to dine in a big group or want a primo time slot (7 p.m. on a Saturday night, say), then you’ll need to plan ahead and make a reservation at least a month in advance.

I power-through the traffic in and around downtown if it means Bestia Italian at the end of the bumper-to-bumper line up. The bone marrow is unlike anything you’ve ever tasted, and the pizzas are Neapolitan perfection with home-grown produce ‘n spices.

In my view Los Angeles is now officially giving San Francisco a run for its money when it comes to food. Bestia’s dishes rank, hands-down, amongst the most outstanding that I have had in months. I’d return to L.A. just to eat there. Try the beef heart tartare, and (oh my) the bone marrow dish. I ordered a second, so worth it—I am still glowing as I write. The gang there is simply awesome. Thank you Mr. Salumi Man (Mike), and sweetheart Justin for making the night refreshingly un–L.A. and fun.