Stepping aboard Victory I is a bit like stepping back in time.
The 30-year-old Great Lakes steamship-style cruiser has been renovated, enough to feel fresh and comfortable without sacrificing its historic charm and nod to a simpler, bygone era. Being onboard is also a reminder of the sheer vastness of these massive bodies of water—at times you’ll find yourself standing on the top deck surrounded by nothing but blue water and distant horizons.
The ports of call, however, are pure Americana (with some tastes of Canada mixed in). From kitschy Niagara Falls to the birthplace of the term rock and roll in Ohio, from the quaint Mackinac Island off the tip of Michigan to the lesser-known towns sprinkled throughout the itinerary, sailings on the recently revived Victory Cruise Lines offer a taste of both the history and the modern-day life along some of the world’s biggest bodies of freshwater. They also provide opportunities to dive deep into the region’s unique and sometimes dramatic history.
I admit, most ports of call were places I never would have thought to visit on their own, but together they made for a pleasant, relaxing exploration.
Indeed, one passenger from Texas told me the Great Lakes had always been on his bucket list. But when he tried to plot a trip by air and land, the logistics became too much. Then he stumbled upon the Victory cruises. He booked one for himself and his wife as a 70th birthday present to himself.
They toured by day and cut up the dance floor by night. The sailing, he said, did not disappoint. I had to agree.
A port call in Cleveland, Ohio, offers an included excursion to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame.
Photo by DJ Johnson/Unsplash
Exploring the inland shores of North America
Victory Cruise Lines has two identical ships that spend the summer sailing all five Great Lakes: Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie, and Ontario. The 190-passenger ships, Victory I and Victory II, operate mostly 10-night trips between Toronto and Chicago; a few itineraries dock in Milwaukee rather than Chicago, and a few longer sailings also include Muskegon and Holland in Michigan, and Duluth, Minnesota, in the farther northern reaches of Lake Superior, which is the largest body of freshwater in the world. There are also options to book an itinerary that combines the lakes with a sailing up the St. Lawrence Seaway to Montréal, as well as one that begins on Lake Ontario in Toronto and travels the St. Lawrence Seaway all the way to Nova Scotia and then along the coast down to Portland, Maine.
Earlier this summer, my friend and I sailed the Toronto to Milwaukee route, which offered a surprising number of both included and premium excursions (the latter requires an extra fee). The big tourist draws—a boat ride under Niagara Falls, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland, horse-drawn carriage rides on the car-free Mackinac Island, and the Henry Ford Museum in Detroit—were all included.
There were also some surprises, both included and for an additional fee. My favorite outing was one of the premium add-ons that entailed kayaking from Lake Superior in Canada through the famed Soo Locks in Sault Ste. Marie to Lake Huron. The trip from a park in Canada through the old section of locks and then back to a park near our dock in Michigan was five miles, but paddling across the border through the locks gave me some fun bragging rights.
Another unexpected highlight was the National Museum of the Great Lakes in Toledo, Ohio. It looks unassuming and small from the outside but is chock-full of relics and interactive exhibits about the many ships that have plied the lakes’ waters—and sometimes succumbed to them—over the years. You can take a simulated dive to the depths of the icy Lake Superior to see the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald, load some coal into a small replica of a steam ship engine, or learn about the rich people who traveled the luxury liners of days gone by and the many immigrants brought to the area to work on the ships.
Among the writer’s favorite excursions was a kayaking outing on Lake Superior.
John McCormick/Shutterstock
An interesting twist: a room dedicated to some of the most famous crimes that have been committed on and along the shores of the Great Lakes, including the case of Narene Mozee, who vanished without a trace in 1940 from the Seeandbee, which was the largest freshwater steamer in the world, and cases involving Chicago resident H.H. Holmes, who in the late 1800s became the United States’ first serial murder.
Museumgoers can also explore a huge freighter and tugboat, docked along the Maumee River outside the museum.
For true history and maritime buffs, educational opportunities continue on board, with a resident Great Lakes expert, or “Lakelorian,” from the National Museum of the Great Lakes who gives daily lectures about everything from the history and ecology of the lakes to the different types of boats that have sailed and still are sailing them. He was also out on the deck every morning as the sun rose to survey the waters and answer passenger questions.
One of the most beautiful, albeit crowded, stops was our day on the car-less Mackinac Island, where we walked among seemingly endless gardens and displays of colorful flowers, horse-drawn carriages, and fudge shops that line Main Street. Then we headed to brunch at the famed Grand Hotel, known for its enormous wooden porch and sweeping views of this popular destination for day-trippers.
Despite the plethora of choices for guided, group excursions, I also thoroughly enjoyed a Sunday morning solo walk through the quiet lakeside neighborhoods of Escanaba, Michigan, known as the gateway to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. That same day, I ventured out on my own to an arts and crafts festival in the park, followed by lunch at a classic diner, Swedish Pantry.
Every day showcased the natural beauty of the Great Lakes, from their sandy beaches and lush green coasts to the hundreds of lighthouses that stand sentry along the five lakes’ nearly 11,000 miles of shoreline.
Victory Cruise Lines is one of a few operators plying the Great Lakes.
Courtesy of Victory Cruise Lines
Life aboard a Great Lakes cruiser
Victory Cruise Lines is one of three companies that sail the Great Lakes regularly. With a capacity of 190 passengers each, its ships are the smallest. The 210-passenger Pearl Mist is a slightly larger, more modern ship that sails the lakes exclusively all summer. And Viking Cruises brings its 450-passenger polar expedition ship, Polaris, to the region when it’s not sailing Antarctica during the Southern Hemisphere’s spring and summer.
Because of the Victory ships’ age and small size, they don’t have certain modern amenities, such as a hot tub or a pool—though there is a small spa on both ships that offers massages and salon services. But what the ships lack in bells and whistles, Victory makes up for in great food, outstanding staff, and historic flair. There are grand chandeliers in the lounge and the dining room, a pub-style tavern, and antique-style wallpaper and decor reminiscent of Great Lakes luxury liners of yore.
I liken it more to a bed-and-breakfast on the water.
The cabins are cozy (most are under 200 square feet), the beds are comfortable, the bathrooms are just roomy enough, and the cabin service is impeccable. It seemed our attendant, Manuel, was always at the ready, whether to refill our water and minibar or to tidy up. Indeed, the staff is so friendly and attentive that even a shopkeeper in Port Colborne, Ontario, Canada, commented on their reputation for excellence.
The staterooms on Victory I are cozy yet comfortable.
Courtesy of Victory Cruise Lines
The food was outstanding. There are two restaurants, the main dining room and the grill, the latter of which is a more casual, glass-walled venue that serves buffet breakfast and lunch. At night it transforms into a reservation-only Tuscan-style steak house where you can grill your own steak on a hot stone at the table. Menus in the main dining room change daily, with offerings that include duck, lamb, Maine lobster, spicy noodles, and just about everything in between, including favorites like hamburgers, salmon, chicken, and pasta, which are offered every day.
The only real guest complaints I heard about the dining experience during the entire sailing were about the occasional slower service in the main restaurant, which seemed to be the case only if too many diners arrived to eat at the same time for the open seating meals.
One of the biggest surprises was the nightlife. Our cruise director, Nicole, is also a talented singer, and she and her husband rocked the lounge every night with music that ranged from a dedicated show and history of Carole King to Motown, Elton John, and ’70s disco tunes.
While the passenger demographics skewed age 70 and up, there was a mix of ages on board. As the turnout on the dance floor proved, regardless of what the average passenger age might have been, there was a strong showing of the young at heart.
Sailings on Victory I and Victory II start at $4,599 for 2025 and $5,799 per person for 2026 and include daily excursions, all food, and all beverages except premium alcohol.
