After flying into Salt Lake City, rent a car and take at least half a day to pick up provisions and road snacks, and explore downtown. To get the most out of this trip, you’ll need camping supplies and a decent amount of food and water as you’ll be heading into remote terrain. Don’t worry, if camping isn’t in the cards there are plenty of comfortable accommodations on this trip. Salt Lake City is the easiest place to pick up the most variety of food and gear before hitting the road.  

To get outfitted with camping and outdoor supplies, head to Recreation Outlet just south of downtown. For a quick lunch and top quality camping food and snacks (this is still a vacation) Caputo’s is a must-visit. This local favorite Italian deli and market is the perfect spot to stock up for fine dining alfresco. For more everyday items (it doesn’t hurt to bring a few large jugs of water) there are grocery stores a few blocks away in downtown or Trolley Square.  

Once you’re geared up, it’s time to hit the road. It’s about a three-hour drive to the San Rafael Swell. Break up the drive with a stop in historic Helper (about two hours from Salt Lake City), a mining town with preserved buildings from its storied past. The San Rafael Swell is a 75-by-40-mile dome of rock that’s been shaped into a winding maze of valleys, canyons, buttes, and mesas by some 60 million years of flash flooding. The best way to appreciate the scale of this incredible place is the via the Wedge Overlook Trail by hiking or mountain bike. You’ll enjoy a complete view of the 14-mile-long, sandstone-carved Little Grand Canyon. 

For campers, Buckhorn Draw Road (about a 45-minute drive from the trail) is one of the most beautiful places to sleep outdoors. Set in the middle of the canyon walls and visible from the Wedge Overlook, the stars at their brightest and most brilliant here. For those who prefer a roof over their heads (and running water), the family-owned Castle Valley Outdoors offers guided hunting and fly fishing trips with rustic lodge-style accommodations. Or you can rent a room or the entire house at The Nielsen House. Both options are about an hour away from the Wedge Overlook Trail.

Eight miles from the entrance to Capitol Reef National Park lies the charming town of Torrey, where art galleries, locally owned cafes, and outdoor outfitters dot the walkable downtown. For a town of just a few hundred people, there’s a rich offering of bars, restaurants, and accommodation thanks to its proximity to the park. Torrey is located about two hours from Buckhorn Draw Road (or a little more than an hour from the other lodging options). Stop at The Wild Rabbit Cafe for breakfast and explore downtown via Main Street.  

Whether camping or staying indoors, the accommodations around Torrey are especially relaxing. Campers can reserve a spot at Fruita Campground in the park, one of the most distinctive campgrounds in the country, set amidst the canyon and a settler-planted fruit orchard. The Fremont River runs past the oasis-like campground and many trails are within walking distance. For a luxe spa experience, check out Cougar Ridge for a where you can also book your own private casita. Glamping options are available at the Capitol Reef Resort, including the option to stay in a kitted-out, settler-style wagon.

Start the day with a slow drive around the park via the Capitol Scenic Drive. If the weather is dry, make sure to check out the gravel Grand Wash and Capitol Gorge roads. Expect the 16-mile round-trip drive to take about 90 minutes but give yourself plenty of time to pull off and hike whenever inspiration strikes. Pack plenty of water, food and sun protection if you’re venturing out on the trail. For a moderately difficult scenic loop, check out the Chimney Rock Loop where you’ll enjoy views of the 100-mile long Waterpocket Fold and colorful wildflowers in the spring and summer.  

After a hike and lap around the park, stop at Dark Sky Coffee for an afternoon coffee—you’ll want to stay up late to enjoy nature’s light show. Capitol Reef is a designated Dark Sky Park and draws astrotourists from around the world. With such little artificial light in the area, the park is one of the few places where the night sky appears as it would have before the Industrial Revolution. Beyond the spectacle, the health and wellness benefits of dark skies are an emerging science. Take a little time to learn how to get the most out of your stargazing experience in Utah.

On your second day at the park, take the time to fully immerse yourself in the surrounding nature. The area is famous for its slot canyon hiking, long winding canyons that narrow and widen with ornate sandstone formations and a rich array of plants and wildlife. For a challenging but rewarding hike the Sheets Gulch Slot Canyon. Go with a guide from Torrey-based Red Rock Adventure Guides for safety and to learn about local geological formations. For a shorter hike with a similarly remarkable slot canyon experience, try the Burro Wash Slot Canyon. The canyon starts wide and narrows all the way to shoulder-width passage.  

Cap off your day in the outdoors with a relaxing fly-fishing session on the Fremont River. The cool, slow-moving waters are home to several trout species while the sandstone cliffs provide a scenic backdrop (and a welcome distraction if the fish aren’t biting). For the best fishing close to the park entrance, head upstream from the campground. Rent gear and get some important fishing tips from Fremont River Guides in Torrey, then let the hours drift down the river with each cast.

On your way back to Salt Lake City, take your time driving and go for the scenic route via Nine Mile Canyon outside Helper and Price. From Torrey, the drive is about three hours and it’s well worth it for a look into the ancient past. Nine Mile Canyon runs through the Book Cliffs, a 200-mile sandstone escarpment.  

On the walls of the cliffs, you’ll find petroglyphs and pictographs from ancient inhabitants as well as historic sites from indigenous people and settlers. These sites, accessible from the road, are unsupervised so it’s essential to experience them with respect and practice Leave No Trace. The canyon has a grounding effect for many visitors, giving them a sense of perspective on the vast history of the lands and people that came before them. You’ll have no shortage of deep ponderings for the remaining three-hour drive to Salt Lake and journey home.