Florida

Ah, Florida. What state conjures such a mix of emotions in those who live here and venture here? With more than 1,300 miles of coastline, sandy beaches are a dime a dozen in this sun-splashed land. Miami lives and breathes to a Latin beat and hosts one of the world’s most important art festivals every winter during Art Basel Miami. Tampa’s Cuban culture harkens back to a much earlier era than Miami’s, when immigrants arrived to pursue their cigar fortunes. Moneyed Palm Beach, with its enormous oceanfront mansions and exclusive shopping, is known as the state’s Gold Coast, and the Florida Keys are as close as you can get to Caribbean-style escapism in the Lower 48. And who could forget Orlando: theme park capital of the world, yes, but also with its own surprising urban vibe that’s home to a burgeoning foodie scene set to rival any in the South. It’s impossible to arrive in Florida without some sort of expectations. But dive into the Sunshine State with an open mind, and you’re sure to be surprised.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Florida?

A year-round destination, Florida has something to offer in every season. Winters here are as good as summer gets in most places, with balmy temperatures and cloudless skies (though expect the ocean to be rather cool for swimming in the state’s northern reaches and the Panhandle). The southern part of the state—from Vero Beach south, and from Sarasota to Naples on the Gulf Coast—is particularly seasonal, drawing large crowds of “snowbirds” (people from more northern states on an annual migration to esape the cold) from about January through April. March and April are busy all over the state with spring break crowds, and spots like Panama City, Miami, Clearwater Beach, Daytona, and St. Pete Beach are particularly packed. Hurricane season runs from late May through late November; that’s also the warmest time of year and when hotels are most likely to offer deals (outside of holiday periods, at least). Major festivals to put on your calendar include Key West’s 200th Anniversary (March 25, 2022) and Art Basel Miami every December. But there are many more festivals and gatherings all over the state, celebrating everything from LGBTQ+ pride to Florida’s seafood bounty.

How to get around Florida

Florida has major airports all over the state that see arrivals from across the country and around the world. The biggest and best-connected include Miami International Airport (the hub for South America and Caribbean flights), Fort Lauderdale International Airport, Orlando International Airport, and Tampa International Airport. While all of the major cities have public transportation, it’s well worth renting a car here to make the most of your time and to reach outlying attractions with ease.

Can’t miss things to do in Florida

The best Florida trip takes in a mix of cultural and city highlights, stunning beaches, and the state’s formidable wilderness, home to many spring-fed rivers supporting an amazing mix of birdlife and reptiles. Everglades National Park, an International Biosphere Reserve and the third-largest national park in the Lower 48, is the famed natural wonder to see. But there are many smaller state parks with equivalent wild beauty on offer, too. Also experience authentic Cuban culture in Miami’s Little Havana and Tampa’s Ybor City, catch an unforgettable sunset with a cast of island characters in Key West, and enjoy thrills like no place on the planet at the many theme parks of Orlando.

Food and drink to try in Florida

Florida dishes up a world of flavors, pulling from the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico’s seafood bounty for meals to remember. The flavors of Miami skew largely Latin, and this is where you’ll find some of the best Cuban, Brazilian, Argentinean, and Peruvian restaurants in the country, not to mention authentic New York bagels, sushi, French fare, and more. On the state’s Gulf Coast and in the Panhandle tastes tend toward the simpler, with grouper sandwiches and fried seafood popular staples—along with the ubiquitous key lime pie, made famous in the Florida Keys. Downtown Orlando surprises visitors with its thriving Asian district, with the best selection of Vietnamese restaurants in the state. And in Apalachicola, on the Gulf, don’t miss a heaping platter of Florida’s most famous oyster crop. The state’s favorite seasonal seafood offering by a long shot, however, is stone crab, fresh on menus from mid-October to mid-May. With sweet, tender meat, they’re usually served with a mustard dipping sauce and are as good as seafood gets.

Culture in Florida

The constant sunshine may make for a mellow, tropical mindset, but Florida is far from a cultural desert: World-class museums like the Salvador Dalí Museum in St. Pete and the Bass Museum of Art in Miami are merely scratching the surface. Sarasota is home to the famous Ringling Museum, Orlando has the world’s largest collection of works by Louis Comfort Tiffany, and even party-minded Key West oozes culture and history, with its Hemingway House and an important literary festival on the schedule every winter. Make for St. Pete and Miami’s Wynwood Walls for a street art experiences unlike any other on the East Coast.

For Families

Family itineraries are a cinch to cobble together in Florida; the hardest part will be narrowing your focus. For theme-park action, you’ll stay busy for days between Orlando’s many parks and Busch Gardens Tampa, an hour’s drive west on Interstate-4. If it’s a beach vacation you’re after, you need to decide between the calm shores along Florida’s Gulf Coast and Panhandle and the surf-friendly action on the endless East Coast beaches. During the cooler months, the state’s pretty inland campgrounds along the many crystal-clear springs and rivers are a good option for a budget-minded holiday, too.

Local travel tips for Florida

Floridians live a bit differently than folks elsewhere in the country. Winter is their favorite time of the year, and that’s when you’ll find them packing up tents or loading up RVs to make for the many beautiful state campgrounds, mostly mosquito-free from January to March, both along the beaches and inland, too. Come spring break (March is the bullseye month), those who can will often bolt out of state, heading for the mountains or a city escape—the beaches are too packed at that time and traffic in towns picks up. During the summer, Floridians beat the heat by ditching inland spots like Orlando and Gainesville and making a break for the coasts, where hotels offer discounted rates, particularly from June through August.

Guide Editor

Terry Ward has lived around the world and across the Sunshine State, including stints in Jacksonville, Cocoa Beach, Orlando, and, most recently, Tampa. She’s been a freelance travel writer since 2000, when she quit her advertising job to travel the world, and has written for The Los Angeles Times, Conde Nast Traveler, USA Today, Endless Vacation Magazine, and many other publications. Her hobbies including scuba diving, snorkeling, and sailing. Read more at terry-ward.com.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
When Freehand launched in Miami at the end of 2012, it became a welcome alternative to the city’s glitzy hotel scene. The retro-inspired, summer-camp-style hotel is housed in a 1930s building outfitted with vintage furnishings and wood paneling by New York design firm Roman and Williams. Laid-back activities (art classes, yoga) encourage mingling, while the Broken Shaker cocktail lounge has become a local hangout and earned two James Beard Award nominations.

Freehand Miami bills itself as “a hostel for a new generation of travelers.” Indeed, a visit here confirms that it’s very far from the stereotypical dingy hostel. In fact, were it not for the shared rooms, the Freehand would likely fall into the “boutique hotel” category.

Room decor includes vividly colorful modern art and Mexican blankets, and free Wi-Fi is available. There are also private rooms that come with work desks and flat-screen TVs. The complimentary breakfast is popular with guests and includes Cuban pastries and locally roasted Panther coffee. Evenings are well-spent at the hostel’s on-site bar, the Broken Shaker, which in 2014 was listed #22 on Drinks International’s World’s 50 Best Bars list. It specializes in inventive “garden-to-glass” cocktails, which blend familiar spirits with unique homemade bitters and ingredients that aren’t usually found in cocktails, such as green bean juice.
One could argue that the stylish, affordable hotel trend was actually ushered in by a pop-up craft cocktail bar in the courtyard of a defunct historic hotel just north of the South Beach fray. Five years later, The Broken Shaker is a permanent fixture of Miami Beach nightlife and the anchor of The Freehand Miami, a hip hotel-cum-hostel with both private and shared rooms designed by Roman & Williams in a subtle nautical theme. It’s also home to 27 Restaurant serving seasonal farm-to-table fare inspired by Miami’s melting pot of cultures. Perennially popular amongst locals, it should be at the top of every traveler’s list. The concept’s proven such a hit that they’ve recently opened hotels in Chicago and L.A. with New York on the horizon.


What was once a pop-up bar, The Broken Shaker is now a permanent fixture at the Freehand Miami. The James Beard Award-nominated bar is located in the high-end hostel on South Beach serving up a selection of handcrafted cocktails. The bar itself is a tiny room by the pool with a 1950s Havana look. You can grab your cocktail—made with elixirs, syrups and infusions using herbs and spices from the onsite garden—and drink it in the bar, or head outside to the pool and nestle into one of the lounge chairs. Away from the hustle and bustle of South Beach, The Broken Shaker offers a more intimate setting than the lavish pools at high-end hotels in the area.
Fontainebleau is perhaps Miami‘s most legendary hotel, dating back to the mid-20th-century golden age of South Beach’s social scene. Opened in 1954, the hotel has seen a number of celebrities—as well as scandals—over its six decades. Frank Sinatra filmed the movie A Hole in the Head here, and the Black Tuna Gang used the hotel as a front for its drug-running activities. Fontainebleau has had several owners over the course of its existence; it closed in 2006, only to reopen again in renovated splendor two years later. Common areas have Vegas-like glitz and glam, with lots of gold accents and sparkly chandeliers (made by, of all people, Chinese dissident artist Ai Wei Wei). The hotel’s art collection is enviable; besides Ai, there are Sol Le Witt and Damien Hirst pieces. Rooms are full of attentive design elements, too. Turquoise-and-green color schemes evoke the ocean, and high-tech amenities include 20-inch iMacs. Concerts take place at several venues on the property, including poolside and at the nightclub, and the hotel has some serious star pull. Recent concerts have featured Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, and Pitbull.
Close to Miami’s busy center, but set back from it, the Mandarin Oriental, Miami enjoys a quiet spot and the designation of the only hotel to sit on Brickell Key, a small island connected to Brickell Avenue by a bridge. This location gives the Mandarin Oriental a sense of both exclusivity and privacy; it also means that rooms offer some pretty incredible views of Biscayne Bay, the city, and one of Miami’s causeways. And what rooms they are; with 13 different types, expect a variety of choices with respect to layout and amenities. Standard in every room, though, are oversized tubs, large flat-screen televisions, Illy espresso machines, luxurious linens, and Carthusia toiletries. Turndown service is also included, as is the guest’s choice of newspapers, delivered to the room each morning. Mandarin Oriental, Miami does not have beachfront access, but it does have a pool. Finally, although the hotel doesn’t go out of its way to advertise the freebie, Wi-Fi is complimentary for guests who set up an account on the hotel website.
One of only two hotels right on Biscayne Bay (the other is the Standard), rooms at Mondrian South Beach are coveted by guests wanting a stellar view. Designed by Dutchman Marcel Wanders, the hotel’s decor is intended to evoke a sense that one is floating around in an underwater world, and the property is described as an homage to Sleeping Beauty’s castle. The slightly whimsical and slightly creepy mermaidlike woman whose face appears on walls throughout the hotel is the “keeper” of this “castle,” where incongruous elements—traditional blue-and-white Dutch porcelain juxtaposed with busy black-and-white patterned wallpaper, say—somehow work in odd, unexpected harmony. Everything about the hotel feels spacious, including oversized rooms, many of which are flooded with sunlight and enjoy bay views.
The 40 year old hotel has just undergone a $85 million renovation and is in tip-top shape. But aside from that, what makes this place so unique are the cool people that work there. It’s a place that values humans, and their ideas, including some of the more silly ones... For example, there’s Yappy hour (one of my favorites!), where you’re invited to bring Fido to the golf course for sun–downers. Drinks for the two-legged patrons, and a specially designed menu of snacks for the furry, four-legged ones, courtesy of Executive Chef Daven Wardynski!. Human food all over the resort was out-of-this-world amazing, too. I say that somewhat regrettably, as I put on 5 lbs in 48 hours. Here’s a chef, sort of a renaissance man, that makes some seriously good food, creates the Sprouting Project, and, if that’s not enough, engineers smokers for all sorts of things that never imagined they’d end up in one. Iceberg lettuce? Yep. Oh, and the really cool presentation pieces for deviled eggs? Chef made them, because he couldn’t find the right plate. Omni Amelia Isalnd is a great place to relax, eat, play tennis, play golf, eat, go paddle boarding, kajaking, eat, get a spa treatment, oh yes, and you guessed it: eat! __________________________ A warm thank you: My Amelia Island experience was courtesy of Omni Resorts Amelia Island Plantation #MeetMeAtAmelia
Cypress Point Park offers a relaxing nature escape in the city. Plentiful amenities include a children’s playground, a disc golf park, covered pavilions, and jogging trails.
Part cigar store, part bar, and part lounge: Corona Cigar Company is pretty much cigar nirvana for some. With indoor and outdoor seating, including sumptuous leather and wood chairs, this is a chilled spot for a smoke and a drink. Go before a movie or after dinner at the Colonial Town Park.
The Setai is unlike most hotels in its neighborhood, offering a mature, sophisticated alternative to the frenetic party-time energy of other properties. A member of Leading Hotels of the World, the Setai attracts numerous celebrity guests, thanks in no small part to its attentive and discreet service. While the hotel’s exterior may be somewhat staid, with art deco flourishes that are modest compared with other hotels built in that era, the Setai more than makes up for this in interior design. Somehow avoiding being ostentatious, the hotel still uses ultra-luxurious everything: the finest Swedish beds, deluxe Italian linens, deep soaking tubs, and lacquered wood furniture and accessories. The building includes residence units, which are ideal for extended stays.
Moorings Village has a setting out of an island fantasy, stretched along one of the largest private beaches in the Keys, with more than 1,000 coconut palms shading its 18 guest villas. After a direct hit from Hurricane Irma, the resort reopened in January 2018 with 100 newly planted coconut trees, a new picturesque dock, and a refurbished swimming pool—while still maintaining its eclectic design and luxurious feel. The individually styled villas—each with a wraparound veranda—have kitchens, living and dining spaces, and a selection of artwork collected during resort owner Hubert Baudoin’s travels. Ocean activities rule the day here (unless you’re lolling in a hammock) and the property offers complimentary kayaks, paddleboards, and bikes, in addition to coordinating excursions like scuba diving, kitesurfing, sailing, and fishing. And because the resort takes up both sides of the Key of Islamorada, guests can catch the sunrise and then witness sunset while dining at either Pierre’s (an upscale spot with French fusion cuisine) or the Beach Café (a casual bistro serving Caribbean-American food). Pro tip: Book your visit to coincide with the full moon to attend the Mooring’s monthly beach party for live music, fireworks, and bonfires on the beach.
The Morada Bay Beach Cafe on the bay side of Islamorada is the perfect spot for a Keys lunch. Colorful chairs and tables dot the beach; the food is excellent and the restaurant regularly receives fantastic reviews. Try the Wagyu beef burger. It is delicious. Fresh fish and seafood are popular choices. The conch fritters and conch chowder hit the spot. The staff is very friendly, professional, and helpful. Island music or Jimmy Buffet songs waft across the beach.