Kenya

In some ways, visiting Kenya is like coming home. Described as the “cradle of mankind,” it is here that some of the earliest humans were born. Our long-lost ancestors traipsed the arid, desert scrubland of northern Kenya doing what our species does best: adventuring far and wide. It’s that same adventurous spirit this vast and varied country inspires in its modern-day visitors. Wild and fiercely beautiful in places, vibrant and fast developing in others, Kenya is filled with experiences to delight every traveler: arguably the best safaris in Africa; terra-cotta sunsets astonishing enough to make you weep; white-water rafting and quad biking for adrenaline addicts; hot-air balloon riding and dhow boat sailing for more peaceful pioneers. Through the golden grasslands of the Masai Mara, past the towering peaks of Mount Kenya, to the soft, sugary sands of the Kenyan coast, this is a country that demands to be explored.

A hot air balloon above a savannah of buffalo in the Maasai Mara, Kenya, with five trees.

Courtesy of Alexander + Roberts

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Kenya?

There’s not really a bad time to come to Kenya, as even in the rainy seasons (April, May, and November) the days are still predominantly sunny, with rain showers only in the evenings or early mornings. The rains also encourage lots of wildlife to come out and munch on the luscious grasslands, so if safari is your main agenda then coming at a wetter time of year is not a bad idea. If the thought of rain sends shivers down your spine, aim for the dry season: July to October and January to February. Although temperatures vary significantly across the country—hot and humid at the coast, hot and windy in the north, cooler in Nairobi and the highlands, and drier and hotter as you head toward the Tanzanian border—these temperatures stay roughly the same all year.

How to get around Kenya

International flights arrive at Jomo Kenyatta Airport, about 20 minutes drive from central Nairobi. It’s now possible to purchase your visa in advance online for most nationalities, but you can also buy it on arrival if necessary. Check out the eVisa portal for more information. Do note, however, that getting the visa on arrival takes a whole page of your passport, whereas getting online in advance it’s just a small stamp at the border.

There’s a number of ways to get around Kenya. If you’d like to self-drive, you can organise a rental car from Jomo Kenyatta Airport with Europcar. For taxis in and around Nairobi, download the Uber app to your smartphone, or try the Little Cab app, a Kenyan-only Uber competitor. You can fly around the country using small charter flights with Safarilink and Air Kenya, which take off from Nairobi Wilson airport. If you’re booking a safari or tour your booking operator will often be able to arrange flights for you. Another great airline for getting around the country is Fly540, especially if you’re heading to the Kenyan coast.

Food and drink to try in Kenya

Kenya has a colorful and varied food scene, with influences from across the globe—including spicy dishes brought over by the Indian community, pineapples and chilis from Brazil brought by the Portuguese, and European vegetables and fruits. That’s without mentioning traditional Kenyan foods: staples such as ugali (like rice, but made from maize flour), sukuma wiki (a leafy green vegetable that’s a little tougher than spinach), and beans are the most commonly eaten foods in Kenya. Nairobi has a surprising array of excellent restaurants offering everything from Thai food, to gourmet burgers, to stone-baked pizzas.

Culture in Kenya

Kenya’s cultural heritage is particularly vibrant. There are a huge range of tribes here: from the colorful, beautifully adorned Maasai warriors in the south to the bejeweled Samburu tribesmen and women in the north, to name just two. Village visits can be arranged to meet the tribes and see traditional ways of life. In the Marsabit region, take a trip to the Singing Wells. Locals take their cattle there everyday and sing as they form a human chain to scoop water from the well to the trough. In Nairobi, visit the Nairobi National Museum to see the early human fossils, and check out the Maasai Market to pick up some local Kenyan handicrafts (although beware, some of the goods on sale are knock-offs made in China).

In Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, there’s always a huge range of festivals and events going on, from live music to thrift markets. For the most up-to-date information about what’s happening there, try Kenya Buzz (a local events website) or EatOut for the latest information on restaurants and bars. Further afield, Kenya has a number of annual events worth attending. The Lake Turkana Festival, held on the shores of the lake in Loiyangalani each year, is a colorful celebration that brings together local tribes, while the Lamu Yoga Festival is a chance to find your bliss on the beach. Athletes should check out the annual Lewa Marathon, with the chance to jog past zebra and antelope on a nature conservancy, while petrol heads should explore Rhino Charge, an off-road motorsport competition that raises money for conservation each year.

Local travel tips for Kenya

Kenyans are a friendly people with an excellent sense of humor. Tourism is a huge part of the country’s income—as such, tourists are made to feel very welcome here. Local languages spoken are English and Swahili. Phrases you’ll hear include jambo (hello), habari? (how are you?), asante sana (thank you very much), and karibu (welcome). Learning a few Swahili words is highly recommended—even though English is widely spoken, it always delights locals to hear visitors having a go. The local currency is the Kenyan shilling. It’s usually easiest to get cash on arrival in Kenya as there are plenty of cash machines in Nairobi and a couple at Jomo Kenyatta airport. Credit cards are widely accepted in Nairobi, but if you’re heading out of town, take some cash.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
What if you could spend the night in the middle of hundreds of acres of wild scrubland—where large herds of elephant graze, gazelles bound, and elusive leopards patrol—with nothing between you and the canopy of stars but a thin black mosquito net? The Star Beds at Loisaba Conservancy in northern Kenya offer a quirky and spectacular place to wonder at the universe all night long. The camp’s comfortable beds are rolled out onto a private open deck in the evening, allowing guests to watch the darkness set in and the glittering wonder of the galaxy awaken overhead.
Chowpaty, Nairobi’s best vegetarian restaurant, serves outrageously tasty dishes from across the Indian subcontinent. On arrival, customers are presented first with a small bowl of warm water to wash their hands in and then with the epic menu. The best item on the menu is the dahi puri: Crispy puffed puri shells are filled with Bombay mix (a crunchy snack mix) and then drizzled with a sweet and sour sauce. Many items on the menu can also be made vegan—just ask. Chowpaty has several locations around town, but the most popular sits in the courtyard at Diamond Plaza, a bustling shopping mall where the Indian community comes for fabrics, clothing, electrical goods, and supermarkets.
Hemingways is a new hotel in Karen, which is sort of the equivalent of Atlanta’s Buckhead in Nairobi. It is near the Wilson airport, where so many of the domestic Kenya flights fly out. Traffic is a huge issue in Nairobi and cars creep both by day and night, so being in this area puts you near many of the best restaurants and shops like Anna Trzebinski’ s studio. The Giraffe Manor and the Sheddrick orphanage, where one can adopt a baby elephant, are also nearby.


If you arrange your trip to Kenya with Betty Jo, she can arrange upgrades at Hemingway’s, private visits to the elephant orphanage and Trzbenski’s studio, as well as private local drivers and drinks with a local Kenyan personality. “I can basically do whatever anyone wants,” says Betty Jo. “All bespoke.” Contact her at [email protected].
Eagle View’s nine tented suites opened a year ago on a ridge that overlooks a broad swath of savannah in the Mara Naboisho Conservancy. The camp pays a guaranteed income to each of the approximately 500 families who own the conservancy.

Masai guides lead guests on night drives or walks and use animal-friendly spotlights to illuminate nocturnal creatures.

Suites overlook a salt lick that attracts one of the highest densities of lions in Africa. On occasion, guests may find a lion’s kill in the morning.


This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image courtesy of Basecamp’s Eagle View
Nestled between pristine beaches and lush forest, the peaceful town of Watamu is ground zero for water sports in Kenya. One of Kenya’s most renowned kite-surfing schools, Tribe Watersports, is based here and offers three–day courses to get you skimming the warm waves of the Indian Ocean in no time. If you’re happier underwater, Watamu will also appeal. A maze of rich coral reefs skirts the shoreline, so giant turtles and exotic fish can be seen year-round, and at certain times of the year majestic whale sharks pass through this region, making it a snorkeling and diving haven. For accommodation, check out the eccentric and charming Watamu Treehouse.
Finally, some quiet time. I spend the sunset on the deck, reflecting on a day’s hard work. It’s warm and humid, even though twilight approaches. Beads of sweat start to form on the bottle of Tusker on the table in front of me. Looking across the Pemba Channel to Wasini Island, a fisherman in a dhow is returning to the village with his catch of the day. The tide begins to rise as the waves start to lap the edges of the jetty below. Brightly colored kikoi and other traditional fabrics cover pillows and chair cushions. The white walls give the interior space a Mediterranean feel and glow a golden hue as the sun begins to set. Vervet monkeys play on the thatched roofs of the cottages in the distance. In Shimoni, it’s as if time bends and slows, allowing you to absorb these quiet moments each evening.
Film fans may remember the scene in Out of Africa when Denys Finch Hatton’s little yellow gypsy plane swooped above the pink flamingo–filled waters of Lake Nakuru to the sound of the John Barry soundtrack. The lake is indeed known for the thousands of flamingos that nest along its shores, attracted to the lake’s vast quantities of tasty algae. (Recent rising water levels have resulted in many of the birds moving their nests elsewhere, but naturalists believe they’ll return when the waters recede.) In 1961, the lake and its surrounding land were named Lake Nakuru National Park, now protecting the black and southern white rhinos, warthogs, lions, baboons, and other wildlife that live here. The lake is a roughly three-hour drive from Nairobi.
Diani Beach is a 25km strip of pale, sugary sands backed by the cerulean Indian Ocean. As one of the more developed towns on the Kenyan coast, there’s a great variety of restaurants, cafés, bars and shops here. Also on offer are activities from horse riding to kite-surfing and tours of the ancient Kaya Forest. Popular haunts in Diani include the Forty Thieves Beach Bar - renowned for their fun beach parties and tasty pizzas, as well as Ali Barbour’s restaurant – set inside a candle-lit cave which opens out onto the starry night’s sky above. However you choose to spend your time in this idyllic costal location, one thing is for sure: as the sun sets, castling a golden glitter on the sea below, and the beach-front restaurants lay flickering lanterns on the sand, there are few other places in the world you will want to be.
Five open-plan huts sit on the shores of a private island, deep in the wildlife-rich wetlands of Lake Baringo. In the morning, after a breakfast of fresh fruit, take a canoe out to spot hippos and some 450 species of birds. This appeared in the July/August 2012 issue. Read Matt Gross’s feature on running in Kenya.

Below the hotel’s cottages, the Kerio Valley’s grasslands spread toward the horizon like an infinity pool. Take the plunge on mountain bike or on foot, or marvel from a distance while enjoying a goat barbecue. The restaurant also serves a hearty beef stew by the fire in the stonewalled lodge. This appeared in the July/August 2012 issue. Read Matt Gross’s feature on running in Kenya.