Kenya

In some ways, visiting Kenya is like coming home. Described as the “cradle of mankind,” it is here that some of the earliest humans were born. Our long-lost ancestors traipsed the arid, desert scrubland of northern Kenya doing what our species does best: adventuring far and wide. It’s that same adventurous spirit this vast and varied country inspires in its modern-day visitors. Wild and fiercely beautiful in places, vibrant and fast developing in others, Kenya is filled with experiences to delight every traveler: arguably the best safaris in Africa; terra-cotta sunsets astonishing enough to make you weep; white-water rafting and quad biking for adrenaline addicts; hot-air balloon riding and dhow boat sailing for more peaceful pioneers. Through the golden grasslands of the Masai Mara, past the towering peaks of Mount Kenya, to the soft, sugary sands of the Kenyan coast, this is a country that demands to be explored.

A hot air balloon above a savannah of buffalo in the Maasai Mara, Kenya, with five trees.

Courtesy of Alexander + Roberts

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Kenya?

There’s not really a bad time to come to Kenya, as even in the rainy seasons (April, May, and November) the days are still predominantly sunny, with rain showers only in the evenings or early mornings. The rains also encourage lots of wildlife to come out and munch on the luscious grasslands, so if safari is your main agenda then coming at a wetter time of year is not a bad idea. If the thought of rain sends shivers down your spine, aim for the dry season: July to October and January to February. Although temperatures vary significantly across the country—hot and humid at the coast, hot and windy in the north, cooler in Nairobi and the highlands, and drier and hotter as you head toward the Tanzanian border—these temperatures stay roughly the same all year.

How to get around Kenya

International flights arrive at Jomo Kenyatta Airport, about 20 minutes drive from central Nairobi. It’s now possible to purchase your visa in advance online for most nationalities, but you can also buy it on arrival if necessary. Check out the eVisa portal for more information. Do note, however, that getting the visa on arrival takes a whole page of your passport, whereas getting online in advance it’s just a small stamp at the border.

There’s a number of ways to get around Kenya. If you’d like to self-drive, you can organise a rental car from Jomo Kenyatta Airport with Europcar. For taxis in and around Nairobi, download the Uber app to your smartphone, or try the Little Cab app, a Kenyan-only Uber competitor. You can fly around the country using small charter flights with Safarilink and Air Kenya, which take off from Nairobi Wilson airport. If you’re booking a safari or tour your booking operator will often be able to arrange flights for you. Another great airline for getting around the country is Fly540, especially if you’re heading to the Kenyan coast.

Food and drink to try in Kenya

Kenya has a colorful and varied food scene, with influences from across the globe—including spicy dishes brought over by the Indian community, pineapples and chilis from Brazil brought by the Portuguese, and European vegetables and fruits. That’s without mentioning traditional Kenyan foods: staples such as ugali (like rice, but made from maize flour), sukuma wiki (a leafy green vegetable that’s a little tougher than spinach), and beans are the most commonly eaten foods in Kenya. Nairobi has a surprising array of excellent restaurants offering everything from Thai food, to gourmet burgers, to stone-baked pizzas.

Culture in Kenya

Kenya’s cultural heritage is particularly vibrant. There are a huge range of tribes here: from the colorful, beautifully adorned Maasai warriors in the south to the bejeweled Samburu tribesmen and women in the north, to name just two. Village visits can be arranged to meet the tribes and see traditional ways of life. In the Marsabit region, take a trip to the Singing Wells. Locals take their cattle there everyday and sing as they form a human chain to scoop water from the well to the trough. In Nairobi, visit the Nairobi National Museum to see the early human fossils, and check out the Maasai Market to pick up some local Kenyan handicrafts (although beware, some of the goods on sale are knock-offs made in China).

In Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, there’s always a huge range of festivals and events going on, from live music to thrift markets. For the most up-to-date information about what’s happening there, try Kenya Buzz (a local events website) or EatOut for the latest information on restaurants and bars. Further afield, Kenya has a number of annual events worth attending. The Lake Turkana Festival, held on the shores of the lake in Loiyangalani each year, is a colorful celebration that brings together local tribes, while the Lamu Yoga Festival is a chance to find your bliss on the beach. Athletes should check out the annual Lewa Marathon, with the chance to jog past zebra and antelope on a nature conservancy, while petrol heads should explore Rhino Charge, an off-road motorsport competition that raises money for conservation each year.

Local travel tips for Kenya

Kenyans are a friendly people with an excellent sense of humor. Tourism is a huge part of the country’s income—as such, tourists are made to feel very welcome here. Local languages spoken are English and Swahili. Phrases you’ll hear include jambo (hello), habari? (how are you?), asante sana (thank you very much), and karibu (welcome). Learning a few Swahili words is highly recommended—even though English is widely spoken, it always delights locals to hear visitors having a go. The local currency is the Kenyan shilling. It’s usually easiest to get cash on arrival in Kenya as there are plenty of cash machines in Nairobi and a couple at Jomo Kenyatta airport. Credit cards are widely accepted in Nairobi, but if you’re heading out of town, take some cash.

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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Why we love it: A secluded safari camp offering Old World luxury and connections to the local community

The Highlights:
  • An ideal location for witnessing the Big Five and Kenya’s famous wildebeest migrations
  • Classic safari style that recalls Out of Africa
  • Access to bush walks, hot air balloon safaris, community excursions, and other unique activities
The Review:
Romantic and luxurious, this tented camp transports guests to the Kenyan safaris of the 1920s and 30s. On the edge of the gorgeous Masai Mara, the secluded property was completely renovated in 2018 and now comprises two camps, each with nine tented suites featuring polished wooden floors, en-suite bathrooms with indoor and outdoor showers, and copper bathtubs with views of the night sky. Classically elegant, the tents also come with private wooden verandas overlooking the vast, game-filled plains; personal butlers who attend to every whim; and thoughtful details like handcrafted artifacts, map-inspired wallpaper, yoga mats, and a butler hatch for delivering morning coffee or tea.

Elsewhere on site are two swimming pools; a common sitting area outfitted with leather Chesterfield sofas and fine antiques; a state-of-the-art gym with views of the Mara; a massage room; a gift shop stocked with local handicrafts; and a stylish bar for Kenyan coffee and top-shelf gin. Of course, guests are really here to see the Mara’s magnificent wildlife, and while they can spot several animals on site, they also enjoy twice-daily game drives, as well as night excursions and bush walks (permitted because the lodge is on a private concession). Additionally, guests have access to breakfast and sundowners in the bush, Maasai talks and fireside dances (much of the staff is from the local Maasai tribe), the educational WILDChild program for kids, and visits to nearby schools or villages for an authentic look at life in the African bush.
Kenya‘s first board-game café. like many great spots in Nairobi, is hidden away—in this case, on the 8th floor of an office building. If anything, Bao Box’s location is actually a boon because the altitude offers fabulous city views, and its seemingly random location adds to the completely fun vibe of the place. Walls are stacked high with all the famous board games like Monopoly, Settlers of Catan… and some lesser-known gems including one bluntly named “Fact or Crap.” Whatever your board-game poison, here lies something for you. The decidedly non-corporate decor is funky and outdoorsy with blankets and colorful cushions on pallets. A simple menu of burgers, chips, beers, wines, and soft drinks will satisfy peckish players.
Just an hour’s drive from the busiest town in Laikipia County, El Karama Lodge feels like a world away. Set on 14,000 acres of private land, six cottages and two riverfront cabins are simply decorated with locally sourced stone and thatch and regionally made furnishings, giving emphasis to the lush natural surroundings. If total immersion is more your speed, the staff can arrange a personal fly camp before your arrival: after a hike to a remote location, you’re greeted by a suspended tent with a clear view to the night sky, complete with comfortable bedding, a drinks table, and a small barbecue. What you won’t find here? Cell service, though you’ll hardly miss it. A drive through El Karama land is almost certain to include sightings of elephants, giraffes, and zebras, but guests can also see creatures that are unique to northern Kenya, including gerenuk and Laikipia hartebeeste. Back at camp, there’s nothing to do as darkness sets in but lie back, stargaze, and listen to the calls of the wild.
Sitting at the edge of Kenya’s capital city is Nairobi National Park. Kenya’s first national park is home to a huge range of wildlife, including buffalo, rhino, zebra, and lions. You can drive on your own around the park, or book a game drive with the Kenya Wildlife Service in advance. The best times to view the animals are at dawn or dusk; while away some of the time in between by heading to Ololo Lodge for lunch and a swim, or stay the night at Nairobi Tented Camp. Helping fund the park with tourism is more important now than ever: It is under pressure from developers, and there have been a number of incidents involving wildlife straying into nearby farmland, due to the encroachment of humans on the animals’ habitats in recent years.