Italy

Italy is the seat of modern civilization, with an unrivaled storehouse of Renaissance art and home to some of the world’s most popular foods. Whether you go for the art, the food and wine, or the ancient history (or all of the above), you’ll find so much more—from the hustle of Naples’ streets to the gently rolling hills of Umbria to the coastal delicacies of Liguria.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Italy?

A summer spent wandering Italy can keep all those carb pounds in check because the temperatures in most of the country reaches into the 80’s. But since Italians take most of August off for their own vacations, lots of places are closed and the vitality of the country is transferred to the beaches. So, head to the peninsula in the spring or fall. Both are peak culinary seasons with a riot of vegetables appearing from April into June and the wonder of mushrooms and the wine harvest from September well into November.

How to get around Italy

The country’s main airports are in Milan and Rome. Over the past few years, airlines like Norwegian and Turkish Air have run outrageous deals if you fly through their hubs so if you can find a short hop into Italy from Oslo or Istanbul, it may be well worth the discount. Also look for airlines like SAS, KLM, and Swiss.

Italy has a very well developed and fairly reliable rail system that will get you to most towns of note without much delay but the rise of budget airlines means that flying between cities can be just as cheap. But if you want to tour the countryside you’ll still need a rental car.

Food and drink to try in Italy

Italy is a legendary culinary destination for a reason. There are plenty of tourist traps but the whole country is swimming in great wine, an exploding craft brewing scene, and a variety of creative culinary feats—with a focus on quality ingredients. In Italy you’ll find a culture that takes food seriously; don’t miss your opportunity to partake in specialties as well known as Parmesan cheese and Chianti wine or the local specialties of every small town and region. Slow Food has an excellent set of guides and seeing the distinctive snail logo in shop and restaurant windows is a positive cue.

Culture in Italy

Rome is the obvious starting point for culture vultures because it’s drenched in ancient, medieval, papal, and modern history. But Italy also has a tremendous musical footprint that comes alive most vividly in opera. Milan and Venice contain two of the greatest opera houses in the world in La Scala and La Fenice, respectively. Most cities of note, like Bologna and Palermo, contain dynamic opera houses which thrive on repertory and contemporary experiments.

Check out Siena’s summer Palio, a medieval horse race around the city’s central piazza. It’s full of pomp and fanfare—but go prepared, not an ounce of it is sanitized; jockeys are regularly injured, horses even more so. A similar race is held annually in Asti. In Venice, the annual carnival is enticing fun, with all those masks and Baroque plays. And the Venice Biennale, every two years, is a must-see for contemporary art lovers. Don’t forget that Italy is mad for soccer, so if you’re there during the regular season (roughly September through May), seek out a game to experience all the passion and fraternity. It’s even better when events like the European Cup or World Cup are being played; every bar or café will be full of fans.

Local travel tips for Italy

Major cultural institutions like the Uffizi and Borghese Gallery require reserved tickets. Make sure to buy tickets to major institutions well in advance. August is one big national holiday, when the entire country decamps for the beach, mountains, or foreign vacations. It can be fun to play in the sand with Italians but if you want to experience the country in all its glory, plan to avoid that month.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
While staying at the Romantik Hotel Vivenda Miranda overlooking the beach of Praia do Mos in Lagos, I gazed at this stunning beach many times. I don’t know how many photos I took of it. This is a long beach with golden sand, sparkling waters, and a couple of good Portuguese restaurants. During the Summer it is lively but not too overcrowded. At high tide, the beach may be less wide. Your hotel staff at the main desk will give you the low and high tides for your beach. People walk the cliffs and even traverse them down to the beach. I chose to go the long way around especially since lately you hear of rock slides in the area! The tranquil feel of this beach is a reward in itself. The area of Lagos and western Algarve is less developed as far as huge resorts and high rises. It is beautiful and in many spots untamed and one of my favorite areas of Portugal. Look up info on the Lagos area in Portugal guides or on www.portugal.com or www.logosportugal.com
Driving along the countryside in northern Portugal near Oporto I saw the spectacular hillside vines of the famous Douro Valley spread out in front of me for miles. The sight was breathtaking. I saw the steep hillsides with the vines on the terraces. The vines were loaded with grapes that in a couple of weeks would be ready for harvest. The vineyards were first established in the 12th century by Cistercian monks. There are numerous Cistercian monasteries in the area. UNESCO declared the Douro Valley a World Heritage Site in 2001. The Douro Valley produces the grapes for port, red, and white wines. Douro tours are available and run from a few hours to a few days. The cruises run from April to October. If you want to see the harvest picking of the grapes plan your tour for September. A drive through the Douro Valley or a cruise down the Douro River is an experience to savor. If you get to northern Portugal, look into a side trip to the Douro. You won’t be disappointed.
Since first reading about Capri as a teenager, I had dreamed about a shop like this. Crammed with hundreds of colorful tunics and beach coverups, Antica Sartoria makes it easy to leave with a bag stuffed full of gifts for oneself and friends back home. The inexpensive resort wear makes liberal use of polka-dots, paisleys, and ornate designs. Not a shop for wallflowers. There’s another outlet in Positano.
Sometimes called “Milan‘s Sistine Chapel” because of its profusely--and beautifully-- decorated walls and ceilings, San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore is well worth a visit. The Renaissance paintings commissioned by the Sforza family (the primary sponsors of Leonardo da Vinci), adorn the walls of a cloistered convent founded for noble ladies in the early 16th century. Built on an ancient Roman site, the church was built and decorated in stages over several centuries, every interior wall covered in luminous colors befitting the pomp of Lombard aristocratic taste. In particular, frescoes by Bernardino Luini, student of da Vinci, blend the sacred and the profane, using members of the court as models for portraits of saints. Most of the numerous religious and secular works of the Milanese painter have been lost, so San Maurizio is the best place to see his works. To get the most out of a visit to this little gem of art history, go with a knowledgeable guide. My husband and I toured historical Milan with Ludovic Goudin of Walks of Italy, who offer a variety of tours in Milan. San Maurizio was just one of the fascinating places we visited!.
Gonçalo Alves and his wife, Marta Fonseca, spent eight years turning an abandoned chicken farm on Portugal’s wild Costa de Prata into their dream retreat. “We wanted a big house to share with people,” says Alves. Their hotel, located a 45-minute drive north of Lisbon, is a whimsical escape with a hippie vibe. Each night Alves and Fonseca invite guests to join them for wine and traditional folk music around a bonfire. The architecture is modern, but the interiors have a fashionable flea-market feel. Inside the 10 rooms and four villas you’ll find bedding, rugs, and light fixtures from Morocco and India, driftwood-frame beds, and fireplaces that hang from the ceiling. Doubles from $345. 351/2-6193- 6340. This appeared in the October 2013 issue.
Aldeia da Pedralva is more than just a hotel. It’s an actual village hidden away among the wildflowers and beaches of Portugal’s Vicentina Coast. The owner Antonio Ferreira was looking for a career change and when he stumbled upon Pedralva village (at the time no more than a pizza place and abandoned, dilapidated houses) he began to buy them up and rebuild them. It took Ferreira and his wife Filipa more than two years to find the original owners and get permission to buy their homes. Today, Ferreira has turned a former ghost town into a destination eco hotel with a restaurant and grocery shop stocked with produce from the on-site vegetable garden. Each of the 31 restored homes has a rustic charm and was furnished by a designer friend of Ferreira. The best part of staying at Aldeia da Pedralva is that you feel like part of a community. Ferreira’s Newfoundland dog Urso often greets guests. Dinner often features fresh seafood caught that day and plenty of Portuguese wine. A stay here is a lesson in how satisfying simplicity can be.
Hidden away behind the stalls in the San Lorenzo market, Da Sergio turns out wholesome, unpretentious food to locals and tourists. Last time I was here I ordered tortelli di patate (potato-stuffed ravioli) with meat sauce and deep-fried calamari washed down with the cheap and cheerful house wine. It was all delicious!
If you are in the San Lorenzo market area around lunchtime, this little enoteca (wine bar) with its old-fashioned, wood-paneled interior is a good place to stop off for a glass of wine and a sandwich or crostino. It’s usually standing room only, but the choice of wines is great and it’s got a buzzy, local feel to it. There’s a great, well-priced selection of wines to go too.
Foodies (and those simply interested in local color and a good meal) should head to San Lorenzo and its covered Mercato Centrale. Florence’s main market for edibles is housed in a 19th-century glass-and-iron building. On the ground floor, delis, stands, and butcher counters sell a fantastic array of local fruit and vegetables, cheeses, dried porcini mushrooms, baked goods, balsamic vinegars, and olive oils plus fresh fish, poultry, and meat. Upstairs, a modern food hall has opened: Stalls sell prepared foods and meals for happy and immediate consumption at a central seating area.
Domenico Ghirlandaio’s beautiful fresco representing the Last Supper is one of my favorite paintings in Florence, and luckily, most tourists ignore it, so you may find you have the place to yourself.