Italy

Italy is the seat of modern civilization, with an unrivaled storehouse of Renaissance art and home to some of the world’s most popular foods. Whether you go for the art, the food and wine, or the ancient history (or all of the above), you’ll find so much more—from the hustle of Naples’ streets to the gently rolling hills of Umbria to the coastal delicacies of Liguria.

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Photo by Michelle Heimerman

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Italy?

A summer spent wandering Italy can keep all those carb pounds in check because the temperatures in most of the country reaches into the 80’s. But since Italians take most of August off for their own vacations, lots of places are closed and the vitality of the country is transferred to the beaches. So, head to the peninsula in the spring or fall. Both are peak culinary seasons with a riot of vegetables appearing from April into June and the wonder of mushrooms and the wine harvest from September well into November.

How to get around Italy

The country’s main airports are in Milan and Rome. Over the past few years, airlines like Norwegian and Turkish Air have run outrageous deals if you fly through their hubs so if you can find a short hop into Italy from Oslo or Istanbul, it may be well worth the discount. Also look for airlines like SAS, KLM, and Swiss.

Italy has a very well developed and fairly reliable rail system that will get you to most towns of note without much delay but the rise of budget airlines means that flying between cities can be just as cheap. But if you want to tour the countryside you’ll still need a rental car.

Food and drink to try in Italy

Italy is a legendary culinary destination for a reason. There are plenty of tourist traps but the whole country is swimming in great wine, an exploding craft brewing scene, and a variety of creative culinary feats—with a focus on quality ingredients. In Italy you’ll find a culture that takes food seriously; don’t miss your opportunity to partake in specialties as well known as Parmesan cheese and Chianti wine or the local specialties of every small town and region. Slow Food has an excellent set of guides and seeing the distinctive snail logo in shop and restaurant windows is a positive cue.

Culture in Italy

Rome is the obvious starting point for culture vultures because it’s drenched in ancient, medieval, papal, and modern history. But Italy also has a tremendous musical footprint that comes alive most vividly in opera. Milan and Venice contain two of the greatest opera houses in the world in La Scala and La Fenice, respectively. Most cities of note, like Bologna and Palermo, contain dynamic opera houses which thrive on repertory and contemporary experiments.

Check out Siena’s summer Palio, a medieval horse race around the city’s central piazza. It’s full of pomp and fanfare—but go prepared, not an ounce of it is sanitized; jockeys are regularly injured, horses even more so. A similar race is held annually in Asti. In Venice, the annual carnival is enticing fun, with all those masks and Baroque plays. And the Venice Biennale, every two years, is a must-see for contemporary art lovers. Don’t forget that Italy is mad for soccer, so if you’re there during the regular season (roughly September through May), seek out a game to experience all the passion and fraternity. It’s even better when events like the European Cup or World Cup are being played; every bar or café will be full of fans.

Local travel tips for Italy

Major cultural institutions like the Uffizi and Borghese Gallery require reserved tickets. Make sure to buy tickets to major institutions well in advance. August is one big national holiday, when the entire country decamps for the beach, mountains, or foreign vacations. It can be fun to play in the sand with Italians but if you want to experience the country in all its glory, plan to avoid that month.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Sicily is known the world over for its fruits, fish and wines. You’ll find these and other delicious edibles at the local markets. The Mercato Vascone (near the cemetery), Mercato Sant’Orsola and Mercato Zaera (on Viale Europa) are all open daily except Sunday until 1 p.m. On Sundays, you can visit the Mercato del Contadino (farmers market) at the Piazza del Popolo. Edibles you can take home include jams and preserves, vacuum-packed olives, olive oil, wines, dried fruits, pasta and cookies—Sicily has some of the best sweets in all of Italy.
Fortuny fabrics, with their iridescent, waterlike shimmer, were born here in Venice at the Giudecca factory. You can’t visit the factory (trade secrets, you know) but the Fortuny showroom is open to the public. Along with fabrics for sale, you can also view some of Mario Fortuny’s art as well as mementos of the iconic process that created such tactile velvets and silks.
Mario Fortuny was a great maker of silks and velvets. His special formula for crinkling and dying silks and weighting them with glass (creating a dress called the “Delphos”) has never been equaled. The dress was a favorite of dancer Isadora Duncan and actress Eleanora Duse, both lovers of Venice. For those that aren’t able to splurge on antique Delphos dresses and Fortuny interior designs, the same technique and style is on offer at Venetia Studium. Their jewel-like range of silk scarves are a great alternative to paying a fortune for the Fortuny fabric process and a wonderful souvenir of the sumptous sensuality of Venice.
Check your email and share your pictures of your fabulous Amalfi Coast vacation on Facebook and Instagram, all while you enjoy a cold drink with a view of the Spiaggia Grande. La Brezza Net Art Café has strong Wi-Fi and is open all day for breakfast, lunch, snacks, aperitivi, and dinner. The menu includes big salads and simple sandwiches. The lemon granita is particularly good. Below the outside terrace, the BioBrezza counter serves fresh fruit smoothies and juices.
There are certainly flashier beach clubs on Capri, but Torre Saracena is a relaxed place with killer views of the Faraglioni rock formation and a terrific restaurant that locals love. For the beach part of the equation, swim in the transparent aquamarine waters and lounge on the narrow beach of white pebbles or the wooden deck built over the water and set with chairs and umbrellas. For the restaurant part, head to the terrace over the beach. The food there is extraordinary. Try tiny, pepper-flecked sautéed shrimp, cold octopus salad, and pasta e piselli, a comforting mix of basil, peas, cheese, and spaghetti. (To call the food “locally sourced” is an understatement: Beside the kitchen door, some shallow saltwater pools are filled with live oysters, clams, and lobster.)
The carefully curated inventory of this shop across from the Hotel le Sirenuse is pretty much perfect, starting with a line of signature scents, L’Eau d’Italia, which evokes the magic of Mediterranean summers. Among your sublime choices are drinking glasses with swirls of color, made by the famous Venetian glassblower, Carlo Moretti; plates handmade in Milan by the owner’s sister, Costanza Paravicini; sophisticated beach cover-ups, the chicest bikinis, and bespoke swim trunks. In short, beautiful things sold in a beautiful space in one of the most beautiful destinations in Italy: Be prepared to want every single item.
Instagram star and author Skye McAlpine has lived in Venice all her life. She shares her knowledge with us here and in her new cookbook, on shelves now.
Netta Bottone, the force behind this rustic eatery, is everyone’s favorite Italian nonna. The cuisine at Cumpa’ Cosimo—enjoyed by celebrities from Gore Vidal to Mariah Carey, as well as locals and travelers—is straightforward and made with heart (and fresh ingredients). The day’s selections will be rattled off to you in place of a written menu and likely will include fresh soups, pasta, and grilled fish. An enormous platter of several different pastas, perfect for sharing, is a perennial favorite. The pizza oven turns out pies with both traditional and special toppings, such as shavings of white truffles.
For the best selection of the region’s handpainted and colorful pottery, head to the Ceramica Assunta shop at number 97 on the Via Cristofero Colombo. There you can shop for tableware, serving bowls and platters, and pitchers. Buy an entire dinner service or just pick up souvenirs such as tiny olive dishes and limoncello cups, all whimsically painted with birds, pigs, and sheep. The store will expertly wrap and ship your purchases, so you don’t have to transport breakables in your luggage.
After years spent working in small workshops in France, Rome, and Orvieto, Italy, and being lauded with an armful of awards, Massimo and Tiziana Aloisio, the couple behind Orogami, have opened a boutique in Capri to sell their jewelry. Their complex designs mix technical skill with philosophies about life and love. The Sphere collection features delicate orbs spun from thin gold or silver threads that are strung in a row on a necklace or knotted onto a simple leather bracelet. The Labyrinth collection of necklaces and rings are etched with a path through which a single diamond or ruby moves.