Netta Bottone, the force behind this rustic eatery, is everyone’s favorite Italian nonna. The cuisine at Cumpa’ Cosimo—enjoyed by celebrities from Gore Vidal to Mariah Carey, as well as locals and travelers—is straightforward and made with heart (and fresh ingredients). The day’s selections will be rattled off to you in place of a written menu and likely will include fresh soups, pasta, and grilled fish. An enormous platter of several different pastas, perfect for sharing, is a perennial favorite. The pizza oven turns out pies with both traditional and special toppings, such as shavings of white truffles.