Greece

Whether your first view of Greece is of the sparkling Mediterranean or the stubbornly steadfast Acropolis, you’ll realize you’re somewhere special. Sit down at any taverna by the sea for a feast of fried fish and baked feta, and get wrapped up in ouzo and the musical flow of the Greek language. For history and classics geeks, the mainland is your treasure trove. The Oracle at Delphi will provide you with answers, and the sheer size of the ruins at Olympia will give you new appreciation for the ancients. Hike through the rugged landscapes and coastlines of the many islands, including Santorini’s fractured caldera, and Crete’s Samaria Gorge. Take the edge off while partying in the whitewashed alleyways of Íos Town, or relax on a lesser-known island like Icaria.

C76JNA Greece, Cyclades Islands, Mykonos, Chora, Church of Panagia Paraportiani. Image shot 2011. Exact date unknown.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Greece?

Although summer in the Mediterranean is never disappointing, late spring and early autumn are by far the best times to visit. Prices remain lower between March and May, and crowds have thinned. The same goes for the end of September to November. The fall season, though sometimes rainy, offers a sea that is still blissfully warm after a scorching summer.

How to get around Greece

Athens is the main travel hub. It’s possible to score fairly priced flights from Europe to some of the more popular islands—especially Santorini, Crete, or Mykonos—but it’s much easier to fly into Athens International Airport. From there, you can take a ferry from Piraeus Port to just about anywhere.

One of Greece’s many charms is that nobody is ever in a rush. This applies to transit as well. Airplanes and ferries are by far the most efficient modes of travel around the country, especially to the islands. On the other hand, the subway system in Athens is actually quite modern, having been built for the 2014 Olympics. It’s handicapped accessible, thanks to elevators in every station. Athens’ bus system is less reliable. On the islands, buses are the way to go, unless you opt for car rental. For all schedules, check out the Greek Travel Pages.

Food and drink to try in Greece

Food is at the heart of Greek living. Seek out the tavernas—you’ll find one in every town—serving steaming bowls of baked feta, fried eggplant, grilled fish, lamb chops, and fresh halva. The Greeks aren’t big drinkers; being inebriated in public is an embarrassment. But the local liquors should be tried: ouzo, raki, and tsipouro are the most common. Tsipouro tends to be underappreciated by travelers. Mix with ice and a small dose of water, and pair with mezedes—generous tapa dishes. If you love wine, head to Santorini. If you’re needing cool refreshment, opt for a frappé, the beloved iced coffee drink of Greek youth.

Culture in Greece

Despite being surrounded by culturally diverse countries like Turkey and Serbia, Greece has held steadfast to its roots. Athens is a bit of an exception, thanks to a large influx of Albanian and Turkish immigrants. For full immersion into Greek culture, head to the lesser-known islands that do not depend on tourism, like Lesbos or Hydra.

Holy Week in April is an exciting time to be in Greece and celebrate Orthodox Easter. Traditionally, celebrations include lamb roasts, fireworks, homemade wine, and dancing in costume. Santorini is one of the best places to celebrate; here people take elaborate care fixing up their property for the event. Carnival in March is a great time to take part in costume parades, drinking, and dancing. Go to Skyros to witness the “goat dance,” or anywhere in the Ionian islands for more Italian-style celebrations. The Athens Festival in June pays tribute to Greek culture and arts. You may be lucky enough to be in town during a feast of the saints, like the Feast of St. Nikolaos or the Feast of St. Demitrius.

Local travel tips for Greece

The locals know that autumn is the best time to visit Santorini. Ferry strikes and Greek protests can often cause delays in travel, but they are usually harmless. Check in advance. Study up on the language a bit before arriving, especially if visiting the quieter islands, where little English is spoken.

Guide Editor

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
The brainchild of Greek art curator Helena Papadoupoulos (formerly of New York and Berlin and thus a familiar face on the art circuit), Radio Athènes is an arts nonprofit that advances visual culture. That means it not only mounts provocative and often political exhibitions, but also and, maybe more importantly, hosts deep talks and discourse on cultural issues of our day. Its space is also a bookstore-library. Check the rich schedule of talks and events at radioathenes.org.
The place of choice to watch the sunset is the quarter of Little Venice—a clutch of balconied fishermen’s houses dressed in colorful paint and reflecting the waters of the sea beside them. Numerous charming tavernas live here, too, so it’s a great place to end up after a walk. The narrow alleys can get crowded when ships are docking, and the restaurants and bars sometimes overcharge, knowing they’re in an enviable location.
The ancient Greeks called Folegandros “iron hard,” but this Cycladic island has a mellow soul beneath its edges. The northern part is the wildest, where locals still scrabble a living making cheese from their goats, threshing grain with mules, and fishing off translucent bays. At homestead tavernas (like Eirini’s grocery-cum-eatery in Ano Meria), the owners rear or grow everything they serve. The main village, Chora, is huddled on a cliff 650 feet above the sea, but the emerald water below is so clear you can count the fish swimming by. The tangle of lanes all lead to three interlocked squares lined with tavernas and bite-size bars, where evenings drift by as you drink shots of rakomelo (warm grappa with honey).
This local institution has (miraculously) survived Mykonos’s transformation from 1970s boho-gay hideaway to glitzy playground of oligarchs and supermodels. There’s no website, no phone, not even a sign outside the tiny shack above Agios Sostis Beach, but the secret is out. Go early as the lunch queue starts forming long before the place opens around 12:30 p.m. Savor a free glass of rosé and conversations with strangers while you wait for a table, the aroma of pork chops sizzling on the grill stoking your hunger. (Mykonos cognoscenti get their teenagers or nannies to wait in line while they go for a swim.) Octopus, prawns, chicken, and chops are chargrilled to perfection, accompanied with zingy salads and baked feta, eggplant, and potatoes. Kiki’s closes when the food runs out, between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m.
Preveli Beach is a secluded beach found on Crete, located about 43 kilometres from Rethymnon town. But it’s more than just a beach -- it’s also a river lagoon and a palm forest. A quick hike will get you down through the palm forest and on the beach, but keep in mind it gets busy during the summer months. It’s worth it for the clear waters. Also nearby is the Preveli Monastery.
On the rooftop of the Athens’ slablike Hilton Hotel, the Galaxy Restaurant & Bar serves elegant cocktails and delectable Mediterranean cuisine—but here the nearly cinematic view of the Greek capital steals the show. Come at dusk and take a seat on the terrace to watch the sky gently blanket the ancient city in blue, then darken and sparkle. Glamorous and alluring, this venue usually attracts an international crowd.
In a derelict empty lot in the trendy-but-scruffy neighborhood of Kerameikos, architect and sometime skateboarder Zarchos Varfis saw potential: In summer 2017 (after some serious crowdfunding, connecting, and fundraising) he opened Latraac, a curvy plywood skate bowl he designed for the lot, and a “skate café” to exist alongside it. The skate bowl is free for the public to use; it also serves as a performance and event space. Latraac has fast become a popular hangout and a symbol of the DIY culture cropping up amidst the city’s ongoing economic crisis.
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The ancient city of Messene, about 60 kilometers (37 miles) east of Pylos, dates back to 369 B.C.E. Much of it has been preserved; the city was never destroyed or built over by later settlements. Today it’s a World Heritage Site and a testament to early urban planning, with its many stone buildings and other structures laid out on a grid. Massive fortification walls, as high as nine meters (30 feet) tall, wrap 9.5 kilometers (six miles) around the city and Mount Ithome, where religious shrines once stood. The site’s archaeological excavations, now restored or reconstructed, extend downhill from the modern village of Mavrommátion; among them are the agora (gathering place), a theater and the temple of Asklepios, the Greek god of medicine. Messene’s ancient Greek stadium is amazingly intact—look for the VIP seats, with legs that end in carved lion paws. Messene’s archaeological museum displays vases, statues and other items of historic interest found here.