Kiki’s Tavern

Mikonos 846 00, Greece

This local institution has (miraculously) survived Mykonos’s transformation from 1970s boho-gay hideaway to glitzy playground of oligarchs and supermodels. There’s no website, no phone, not even a sign outside the tiny shack above Agios Sostis Beach, but the secret is out. Go early as the lunch queue starts forming long before the place opens around 12:30 p.m. Savor a free glass of rosé and conversations with strangers while you wait for a table, the aroma of pork chops sizzling on the grill stoking your hunger. (Mykonos cognoscenti get their teenagers or nannies to wait in line while they go for a swim.) Octopus, prawns, chicken, and chops are chargrilled to perfection, accompanied with zingy salads and baked feta, eggplant, and potatoes. Kiki’s closes when the food runs out, between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m.

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