You haven’t tasted Greek yogurt until you’ve tried the pure pleasure of Stani sheep’s milk yogurt. Oozing with honey and topped with walnuts, it’s almost as thick as clotted cream. The last of the many traditional dairies that once thrived in Athens
, Stani has been in the same family since it opened in 1931. The interior has barely changed since the 1960s, though sadly they have ‘modernized’ the outside seating. (The central location, just off Omonia Square, is a little sketchy these days.) Most people come for a fortifying bowl of yogurt or diet-busting anthogala (fior di latte), which is basically a tall glass of whipped cream. For a really retro breakfast, order a bread roll with a slab of freshly churned butter swimming in a pool of honey or rice pudding dusted with cinnamon. Stani is also the place to try classic syrup-soaked desserts like loukoumades (miniature deep-fried doughnuts) and galaktoboureko (crisp filo pastry filled with wobbly, creamy custard). They do savory cheese and spinach pies too—a very good snack to go.