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Traditionally, it’s the world capital of tango. These days, thanks to a vibrant urban art scene and nightclubs spurring on musical innovation, cool kids from all over the globe look to Buenos Aires as a style capital of Latin America. The Argentine metropolis, by turns moody and frenetic, is just as colorful as you’d expect—and porteños (its inhabitants) themselves are as notoriously proud and effortlessly hip as you’d imagine. While there are sights to be seen, of course, half the joy in visiting Buenos Aires is drinking up the intoxicating blend of the romantic past and the trendsetting present.